Menu
What's new
By:
Advanced search...

Upper control arm removal

shab_the_man

shab_the_man

Iron Man
Staff member
Messages
5,885
Reaction score
142
Location
West Yorkshire
Car
Accord 05 Exec cdti
Guys

Well been getting a knock on the front drivers side of the car for a while now, getting worse as time goes on. Jacked the car today and found that the upper control arm ball joints have excessive play. Decided rather than try to tackle the ball joint just replace the whole arms which have the new ball joints attached. Even better euro car parts have a massive sale on this weekend so bought a pair for less than £60 with a pack of new split pins too. So will be replacing both, at that price worth a try with Euro car part arms

Now just wanted some advice on how to tackle the arms, what shall i take off to get to them. Looks like shock needs to come out or moved at least. Any advice appreciated.
 
I did one of mine a few months ago and contributed my experiences to this useful thread... http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/14512-changing-top-wishbone-on-my-accord-ctdi/page__p__159944__hl__strut__fromsearch__1#entry159944 . In a nutshell, I had to unbolt the spring top mounting and move it outwards slightly to remove the two upper arm bolts. The guys in the video appear not to do this, but I'm guessing they must have levered the spring somehow to get clearance (which I couldn't do on my own). Was a fairly easy job and mine 'sort of' came from ECP (actually CarParts4Less, which is the same thing).
 
Jon_G said:
I did one of mine a few months ago and contributed my experiences to this useful thread... http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/14512-changing-top-wishbone-on-my-accord-ctdi/page__p__159944__hl__strut__fromsearch__1#entry159944 . In a nutshell, I had to unbolt the spring top mounting and move it outwards slightly to remove the two upper arm bolts. The guys in the video appear not to do this, but I'm guessing they must have levered the spring somehow to get clearance (which I couldn't do on my own). Was a fairly easy job and mine 'sort of' came from ECP (actually CarParts4Less, which is the same thing).
Click to expand...
I actually just watched that video, yes they got it out without removing shock or anything. Jon how did you load your arm?
 
Jon_G said:
It doesn't need loading. Just fitting.
Click to expand...
Are you sure, surely when you tighten the bolts at shock end they will make the arm very stiff so would be a good idea to tighten at the angle when the car is level on ground, meaning under load, and then jack the hub up to arm? That video indicated that too. However could be wrong
 
TypeR said:
Are you sure, surely when you tighten the bolts at shock end they will make the arm very stiff so would be a good idea to tighten at the angle when the car is level on ground, meaning under load, and then jack the hub up to arm? That video indicated that too. However could be wrong
Click to expand...
I did have an axle stand under the bottom of the leg. So in that sense it was loaded.
 
It will need loading dude..
 
Shabz have a look at Alans DIY on changing suspension it shows how to load the car properly.
When HH did mine they put the car on an mot ramp so the weight was on the car then fully tightened.
 
Hear you go mate

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/48-diy-pics-a-spec-sports-suspension-install/
 
You'd really struggle to engage the upper arm ball joint taper into the mating hole without the full weight of the vehicle bearing down on the strut/spring. The upper arm bushes obviously allow for a wide range of movement even when fully tightened, otherwise the range of suspension movement would be severely limited and/or the bushes would tear.

As I mentioned in the other thread, it was a relief to discover that the nuts for the two long bolts that go through the upper arm bushes are captive. I spent some time trying to work out how to get a spanner on them!
 
Jon_G said:
You'd really struggle to engage the upper arm ball joint taper into the mating hole without the full weight of the vehicle bearing down on the strut/spring. The upper arm bushes obviously allow for a wide range of movement even when fully tightened, otherwise the range of suspension movement would be severely limited and/or the bushes would tear.

As I mentioned in the other thread, it was a relief to discover that the nuts for the two long bolts that go through the upper arm bushes are captive. I spent some time trying to work out how to get a spanner on them!
Click to expand...
Jon im sure the best way is to this is have no weight on the car when changing the arm.But only tighten the bolts hand tight then drop the car on full weight then tighten to torque setting.
 
brett said:
Jon im sure the best way is to this is have no weight on the car when changing the arm.But only tighten the bolts hand tight then drop the car on full weight then tighten to torque setting.
Click to expand...
Correct. Although I found it impossible to get my torque wrench onto the bolt heads.

This is actually a really simple job... I think we've spent more time discussing it than it takes to do.
 
Very true Jon as it is only 1 arm.
Thinking about it when i had my adjustable arms fitted on the rear last year 3 each side the car always felt different.
These were fitted on a standard ramp and possibly not loaded properly.Since having my new Aspec fitted the car is like it was when new as HH loaded the car proper.
This is a good thread and shows the importance of loading the suspension proper.In a nutshell the best way is an mot pit with the sliding ramp under the car.This then when tightening everything up to torque will have the car on level ground.
 
Jon_G said:
Brett, I think it's a different arm that you're referring to. Possibly the lower arm?
Click to expand...
Your probably right Jon
 
Thanks Brett, managed to get it done and loaded correctly. Car feels so much better now and the noise has completely gone. My old one was completely knackered, the play was shocking
 
Good stuff Shabz
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top