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VIBRATIONS....................

toffee_pie

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ok guys

Let’s get down to business.

Vibrations!

* I am an engineer, not a mechanic so mods feel free to alter this in true Wikipedia style.

First things first

1) jack the car up and take off the wheels, they will need to go.


2) Look at the drive shafts and give them a good tug, if there is any play whatsoever then the dodge one is at fault

3) If the drive shafts 'feel' ok try this.

With the wheels off ramp up thru the gears (up to 60mph anyway) and feel the steering wheel, if it vibrates it’s still from the drive shafts, bearing in mind it’s not even being driven so alignment will have nothing to do with it. (Open to correction!)

The vibration has to come from somewhere and the only thing connecting the shaft to the steering wheel is mainly the drive shafts and its ***ociated bearings, the gearbox is most unlikely to be the fault at all.

4) If the steering wheel vibrates as above then it’s one or more of the boot/cv joints that have to go.

I replaced both of mine (inner and outer) the inner one is the dude with the small 'notch' and splines (part 7), the one with the longer splines is the outer.

The mechanic said the bearings (red circle) were making a grinding noise and this was not evident until it was stripped down. (2 weeks ago he said the shafts were ‘perfect’, so these parts do need to be stripped down for ****ysis)

So if you are stuck for money you could well try get just bearings themselves, again i am speaking from experience here in having most of my damn drive train replaced.. :p

At the end of the day people want their cars fixed right and for the least amount of money

however, i strongly advise to get OEM parts for cv/boot joints, the accord is a high revving engine and the parts are put through a lot of stress, I don’t think parts you see floating about for pittance are worth even considering (I have seen them go for £18)

I have the old parts also and can put up photos if requested.


REVIEW

7996930965_540acbf82a_c.jpg



INNER

7995697688_9459ab679f_h.jpg


7995690007_58aa9ba0ec_c.jpg


7995698376_31539fec9c_c.jpg


OUTER

7995699496_3d1173c21e_h.jpg



7995699004_12d1bf5a7b_c.jpg
 
the mechanic did it, don't think it was too difficult at all, no more than 2 hours work i would imagine.
 
here is a link with the inner and outer joints

:)

heel toe :)

http://www.heeltoeauto.com/axle-shaft/


7995700062_b5cd6360b7.jpg
 
/\ I see they're in California, about 30 miles south of Long Beach LA.

Wow .... sun and cheap Honda parts .... where is my lottery ticket (I only want enough to emigrate to Califormia) :D

Why do we get ripped off on Honda parts in this country, we don't get enough sunshine as it is.
 
serious parts they got too........

check out the brake kits lol.


and no, im not gonna buy them :p
 
agree on prices, shameful.



HGP.axle.innerjoint.r.kit

Honda Genuine Inner Axle Joint and Boot Kit, 04-08 Acura TSX

Options:

Choose Side:

Right

$135.21

1

$135.21

HGP.axle.outerjoint.cl9

Honda Genuine Outer CV Joint and Boot Kit, All 04-08 Acura TSX Left or Right

$275.00

1

$275.00

Subtotal:

$410.21

Insurance:

$0.00

Shipping cost:

$69.60

Total:

$479.81
 
295.622 GBP

Full Honda prices in UK, when needing an outer on one side and an inner on the other side


Individual parts

44014-SDC-A51 JOINT SET, OUTBOARD (includes boot) £227.04

44310-SDA-A60 JOINT right, INBOARD (does not include boot) £252.23

44017-S3X-000 BOOT SET, INBOARD £38.64

total > £500


Complete shaft ***embly (and take the joins off to use)

44305-SEA-N00 DRIVESHAFT ***Y., R. £420.42


Which shows two things
1. Honda make even more money on the individual parts
2. Even a complete shaft ***embly is still £120 more than the individual parts from the USA with shipping

:huh: :eek: :( :blink:
 
well the good thing about this site is well all discuss this ***** and know better ourselves in future. .:)

but its not just honda uk, that dude in portugal was looking for a part too.. (clutch?) and getting fraped by honda down there.
 
Great post, thanks a lot. I think I might be making use of the link for inner CV's.
 
aye, the inners seem to be the ones, im 80-90% sure they were the cause of my vibrations too.

the bearings also a likely culprit
 
Sorry to drag this up from the dead! Toffee am I right in thinking you replaced with an aftermarket shaft first and still had problems? I have vibration at the moment and it's being a nightmare to track down. Car is currently in bits, both shafts out with inner cv's stripped down. Bearings are smooth and I can only find VERY minor wear marks on the inner cvs. I am reluctant to spend the extortionate amount in Honda on a possible cure but from everything I have read people say no matter if they look bad or not replace them! Any advice on wether to go ahead is appreciated
 
firstly, honda accords are very specific on drive shafts

period.

the smallest defect can cause vibrations, they need to be 100%.

I replaced the passenger side one with a refurb, no use. same way
then i got inner and outer (drivers side) ones from heel toe in california.

problem solved.

i would recommend getting them from heel toe, i got complete kits, honda OEM (without the honda uk price), all bits came, with seals, selalant etc.

i would not advise getting cheap boot joints from places like euro parts, the cl9 is a high revving engine, them cheap cv boot joints might last a while but IMO they will eventually fail.
 
here is a link

http://www.heeltoeauto.com/honda-genuine-inner-axle-joint-and-boot-kit-04-08-acura-tsx.html?productid=65949

i got inner and outer for peace of mind, so basically a complete new drive shaft


149 +275 = $424
 
Yeah would definitely buy from heeltoe as have had bits from marcus before and his service is excellent! For now i'm putting the car back together as it was and going to drive it for a while longer to see if the vibrations worsen and may be easier to track down =( I'm am being picky and other people that have driven it can't even notice what i'm on about. Other problem is it's still pulling left even after having several alignments within a very short period, I'm hoping the problems are linked although all bushes appear fine and the 5mm score type marks in the cv's can barely be felt with a finger nail. Others have said if it was inner joints the vibration would be more noticeable through the chassis and not just the steering wheel.
 
just get the boot kit and be done with it, the veering to the left/right wont have anything to do with it., if you have 4 wheel alignment done and the vibrations persist its for sure the boot joints ***uming your tyres are even and don't have bulges.

have you accelerated on a ramp and felt the vibrations, that too will point to the boot joints, as the car is not even sitting on a road and no where to transmit vibrations., only through to the steering wheel.
 
With the wheels off ramp up thru the gears (up to 60mph anyway) and feel the steering wheel, if it vibrates it’s still from the drive shafts, bearing in mind it’s not even being driven so alignment will have nothing to do with it. (Open to correction!)

How do you do this? Jack the car and use two jack stands? Isn't this a bit dangerous :ph34r:
Also, couldn't this damage the drive shafts, since you will going to have the suspension all way down, making the drive shafts to be in a "awkard", unnatural position?

Isn't it "dangerous" to replace "only" the inner/outer joints. If the axle itself is bent, I guess the vibrations will not go away :unsure:
 
Yeah would definitely buy from heeltoe as have had bits from marcus before and his service is excellent! For now i'm putting the car back together as it was and going to drive it for a while longer to see if the vibrations worsen and may be easier to track down =( I'm am being picky and other people that have driven it can't even notice what i'm on about. Other problem is it's still pulling left even after having several alignments within a very short period, I'm hoping the problems are linked although all bushes appear fine and the 5mm score type marks in the cv's can barely be felt with a finger nail. Others have said if it was inner joints the vibration would be more noticeable through the chassis and not just the steering wheel.
I'm not absolutely sure this is a CVJ/driveshaft problem. Vibration coupled with pulling to one side might point to a wheel bearing or brake problem (although a very slight pull to the left is normal, due to road camber). What alignments have been checked... camber, castor and tracking (or just tracking)?
 
i ***ume 4 wheel alignment is done, tbh its not rocket science.

most likely its the cv joints. By the ramp i meant a proper garage with hydraulic ramps. Just ease through the gears and see if the steering wheel vibrates. Mine did once speed went up to about 30mph.
 
Car has had full 4 wheel laser on a very good machine twice in the last month or so and probably four times over the last year, everything checked as I have full camber arms front and rear and all been adjusted spot on! Camber is to my settings, -1.2 front -1.5 rear nothing extreme by any standards. Everything else set to oe spec or probably better. Two new tyres on the front too just to try and erase that issue, brakes all rotate freely, the are ATR upgrades but fully rebuilt with new pistons and seals. The pull is a little more than i would say is acceptable to the point steering wheel has to be held slightly right to drive straight. Mild left turns and you barely turn the wheel, mild right turns and its at 25-35 degrees or so, just enough to be damn right annoying!!! Probably going to start replacing bushes even though none have excessive play, first will be the front compliance bushes and see if that helps. Funnily enough I have put the cv's back together with a LOT of fresh grease in there and the drive home was noticeably smoother. Give it a few days and will see how it behaves.
 
i still think you are delaying the inevitable. you can go changing all bits and bobs but tbh you would be better off getting complete cv joints as mentioned.

they are not cheap, even from the usa but for the end result, you wont complain.

my car drove like new after i replaced them, and it still does about a year later.
 
Not replaced a thing at this stage and not denying the joints are probably the culprit of the vibration. Only reason I have put it back together is due to needing the car, Will be on the list of things to do but for the min the steering pulling is more important and far more annoying plus the joints will take a few days to arrive when i order them :) As said going to try replacing some bushes in the hunt for a resolution to the pull as nothing else can seemingly be the culprit
 
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