3 litres of oil gone in 1.5 miles!
- Thread starter Davsurfa
- Start date
luvmyaccord
6th & Type R Mod
:lol: :lol: :lol: You never think about your knuckles till you scrape them :lol: :lol: :lol: OUCH!!!! Then it's usually followed by a bit of swearing 
Since all the timing belt case was bathed in oil, it could have damaged the crank position sensor, or maybe just a bad connection in the sensor.
Other than that, if the engine was running, and the timing is correctly set, can't remember anything else.
Have yoy checked the ECU for errors?
Other than that, if the engine was running, and the timing is correctly set, can't remember anything else.
Have yoy checked the ECU for errors?
Found the timing issue! The woodruff key in the crank pulley was bent in an "S" shape and only through the outer pulley not the inner timing cog. The only thing keeping them in sync was the pressure of the bolt!!! My timing was 30 degrees out when the cam and outer crank pulley were tdc.
When I pulled the crank pulley before I didn't take the key out of the end of the shaft cuz I didn't have a need to. Tonight it took nearly an hour to pull the key out. How my engine has run at all is beyond me!
Hats off to Andy with the teg cuz he was the one who helped me out tonight.
When I pulled the crank pulley before I didn't take the key out of the end of the shaft cuz I didn't have a need to. Tonight it took nearly an hour to pull the key out. How my engine has run at all is beyond me!
Hats off to Andy with the teg cuz he was the one who helped me out tonight.
At least you found the cause of not starting.
Now the big question, why is the key bent?
And the even bigger question, was there any ham done to the engine internals due to having a bent key, when having the timing 30 degrees out? Let's hope not.
If the engine was turning ok with no weird noises, I guess it should be ok.
Good luck with it mate B)
Now the big question, why is the key bent?
And the even bigger question, was there any ham done to the engine internals due to having a bent key, when having the timing 30 degrees out? Let's hope not.
If the engine was turning ok with no weird noises, I guess it should be ok.
Good luck with it mate B)
The only thing we can think of was it wasn't put in properly when the timing belt was changed before. Last night was the first time I've taken it out so I ***ume it's been like it for at least the last two months that I've owned it! It had been pushed in through the first pulley but not the second then the bolt was just tightened up against it.
As for noises and damage the engine turns over smooth when done by hand but I'm guessing I'm not gonna know for sure until I get it running again. Fingers crossed
As for noises and damage the engine turns over smooth when done by hand but I'm guessing I'm not gonna know for sure until I get it running again. Fingers crossed
Doc
Members
If it has been running fine for the last 2 months with a bent key then I would say you're extremely lucky. Fingers crossed, I think the oily gods might have been smiling on you. Sounds like the oil seal going has done you a huge favour.
That makes no sense.
If it was running ok before with a bent key, now it should be running...
BTW, to reach the seal and install the retainer, you removed the crankshaft pulley and bolt, right?
How did you removed the crankshaft bolt? Or better yet, how did you secured the engine to prevent it from rotate while undoing the crank bolt?
If it was running ok before with a bent key, now it should be running...
BTW, to reach the seal and install the retainer, you removed the crankshaft pulley and bolt, right?
How did you removed the crankshaft bolt? Or better yet, how did you secured the engine to prevent it from rotate while undoing the crank bolt?
I used a dirty great big socket welded to a piece of box section with the centre drilled so I could fit a 19mm socket in the middle. I'm fully aware I had to remove the pulley, I'm the one who lost the knuckles doing it!
I'll post some pictures up tonight of the tools and the position and if Andy still has it the woodruff
I'll post some pictures up tonight of the tools and the position and if Andy still has it the woodruff
For a moment, I thought you could have locked the engine in some other way, like putting it into gear and brake the wheels or something like that....
Doing it like that could damage the key and the internals of the engine or gear box... But if you used a tool to lock the engine in the crank pulley, it wasn't that.
Doing it like that could damage the key and the internals of the engine or gear box... But if you used a tool to lock the engine in the crank pulley, it wasn't that.
lyserman
Members
There is a special tool available to lock the crankshaft pulley like >>>This<<<
I have one but having removed numerous Honda pulleys recently I have found a heavy duty pneumatic impact wrench to work best. By heavy duty I mean like >>>This<<< that gives 600 ft/lbs of torque.
Works every time.
Just do not use it to tighten your wheel nuts (unless of course you want to exact revenge on someone)h34r:
I have one but having removed numerous Honda pulleys recently I have found a heavy duty pneumatic impact wrench to work best. By heavy duty I mean like >>>This<<< that gives 600 ft/lbs of torque.
Works every time.
Just do not use it to tighten your wheel nuts (unless of course you want to exact revenge on someone)
h34r:
Right, the nightmare is finally over!! In this pic you can see an indent where the woodruff had been jammed against the cog and how far apart the keyways were!
Also to give you an idea of the previous owners hamfistedness, at the bottom of the pic you can see a cover for the wiring, those bolts are m8 thread, I figure 1/4" ratchet would undo them with ease. I had to use a 1/2" drive ratchet with longer handle to the leverage!!
This is tool I used to get the pulley off
Having lost my temper and taken the balance belt and the timing belt along with every gear, cog and pulley off that side of the engine and started from scratch it fired in to life! No only did it fire up it ran sweeter than chocolate dipped in syrup!! It ran perfect!! No knocks, no rattles and more importantly no smoke!!!
Then I drove it around the block and parked up back on my drive to see blood all over the floor!! It wasn't oil and after checking I hadn't cut off an arm or leg I realised it wasn't blood so the bonnet went back up and I saw my power steering fluid departing from the bottom of the pump. But it ran and ran so well and I figured I'm sick of walking to work so the easiest solution was to isolate the pump. With the power steering belt removed problem solved!
The leak is where the front pipe joins the pump. Its my own fault cuz I gripped it there when putting it all together the tension the belt. The bearings in the pump did whine a bit before all of this so I think it's time for a new pump and pipe.
Top tip for everyone though, DON'T DRIVE WITHOUT POWER STEERING CUZ IT'S ****** HARD WORK!!!!!
So as soon as I can source a new pump my arms will stop burning, also I will be changing the power steering belt then I'll of changed all the belts. I have been told I can only use Honda power steering fluid so it'll be a trip to the main stealer for some fluid.
Also to give you an idea of the previous owners hamfistedness, at the bottom of the pic you can see a cover for the wiring, those bolts are m8 thread, I figure 1/4" ratchet would undo them with ease. I had to use a 1/2" drive ratchet with longer handle to the leverage!!
This is tool I used to get the pulley off
Having lost my temper and taken the balance belt and the timing belt along with every gear, cog and pulley off that side of the engine and started from scratch it fired in to life! No only did it fire up it ran sweeter than chocolate dipped in syrup!! It ran perfect!! No knocks, no rattles and more importantly no smoke!!!
Then I drove it around the block and parked up back on my drive to see blood all over the floor!! It wasn't oil and after checking I hadn't cut off an arm or leg I realised it wasn't blood so the bonnet went back up and I saw my power steering fluid departing from the bottom of the pump. But it ran and ran so well and I figured I'm sick of walking to work so the easiest solution was to isolate the pump. With the power steering belt removed problem solved!
The leak is where the front pipe joins the pump. Its my own fault cuz I gripped it there when putting it all together the tension the belt. The bearings in the pump did whine a bit before all of this so I think it's time for a new pump and pipe.
Top tip for everyone though, DON'T DRIVE WITHOUT POWER STEERING CUZ IT'S ****** HARD WORK!!!!!
So as soon as I can source a new pump my arms will stop burning, also I will be changing the power steering belt then I'll of changed all the belts. I have been told I can only use Honda power steering fluid so it'll be a trip to the main stealer for some fluid.
luvmyaccord
6th & Type R Mod
Glad you sort of managed to get it sorted dude. At least the car is running, and by the sounds of it, running sweetly!
Personally for the powersteering fluid i'd only use the Honda stuff. For a good price though, give HH a call and you'll geta good price aswell as next day delivery B) Which has got to be a win!
Personally for the powersteering fluid i'd only use the Honda stuff. For a good price though, give HH a call and you'll geta good price aswell as next day delivery B) Which has got to be a win!