I would have thought so, what are the electronics like? I've never really been the electrician type, I guess I need to learn lol
Fairly simple. You just swap looms over from the ATR. After a few weeks testing and making sure the swap was safe and reliable, I then went down the independent management route using a Rywire "Plug N' Play!" loom. Works well and gives scope for future mods, plus I now have launch control! ]
Think I'm gonna have to save up for a donor car then, what sort of checks am I doing on the donor car apart from the usual? Anything particular to look out for on the ATR?
For a donor car, I would just concentrate on the drivetrain being in good condition as everything else will either be unneeded or easily replaceable. Start off with simple stuff like cold start noises, clutch slip test etc, then work upto more ATR specific stuff like 5th gear crunching, seized rear calipers etc.
I understand the subframe on the normal Accords can get very bad structurally, so if for example the donor car has a sub frame is showing rust etc... is it possible to re-strengthen?
Never heard of Accords suffering this...can you elaborate please?
Is there support for chassis strengthening for the ATR? In the ideal world, I'd like to have my suspension set up for fast road, I don't really want straight line speed, just umph to pull out from corners. What can i do to indrease torque figures? I was actually looking to just sell the Accord and get another TDI A4 but really love the shape of the 6th gens, and I hear the H22 vtec crossover is lethal to anyones ears haha the A4 I had, had 230 ft/lb of torque to the wheels, what sort of figures does the ATR achieve?
You can get bracing, but you have to buy it for the CL1 EuroR, which is exactly the same car except it has a different body (same chassis though!) and 8 more hp due to Japans higher octane fuel. Usually the bracing will have to be imported, but that isn't too expensive. ATR's put out just over 150ft.lb's standard, which may not sound like a lot, but ATR's are light and half the fun is wringing the neck out of the engine and timing your gearshifts perfectly. Stock vs Stock, an A4 TDi wouldn't know which way an ATR went especially in the bends...Infact, my old F20B6 was even able to stick with 170TDi's as I could hang onto the revs where as they were running out of puff. Even standard 6G's would destroy an A4 in the bends.
I understand the cam profiles on the standard red top H22 are engineered quite well, so would there be a point in getting stage 1/2 cams? - I'm aiming to start this project in July this year so I really really appreciate your help
It's expensive but yes you can certainly get decent gain from upgraded internals. I've got fairly decent gains from mine with the mods below, which to be honest is as far as I am willing to go with the engine in N/A form. One guy on AccordR.org has gotten over 280bhp+ from his N/A H22. It's a beast, but it does have a very lopey idle and does not enjoy pootling around town at low revs, which isn't what I want from my own Accord. Still impressive though!
Thanks!