Everything is swappable bud, literally every nut and bolt.aire91 said:Sounds epic!
What else is swappable from the ATR onto the standard Accord? I'm guessing most things as the chassis, you say, is identical.
What's the engine swap like to do? Tedious?
Thanks for your input, it's much appreciated
I would have thought so, what are the electronics like? I've never really been the electrician type, I guess I need to learn lolBlueVTEC said:
aire91 said:I would have thought so, what are the electronics like? I've never really been the electrician type, I guess I need to learn lol
Fairly simple. You just swap looms over from the ATR. After a few weeks testing and making sure the swap was safe and reliable, I then went down the independent management route using a Rywire "Plug N' Play!" loom. Works well and gives scope for future mods, plus I now have launch control!
Think I'm gonna have to save up for a donor car then, what sort of checks am I doing on the donor car apart from the usual? Anything particular to look out for on the ATR? For a donor car, I would just concentrate on the drivetrain being in good condition as everything else will either be unneeded or easily replaceable. Start off with simple stuff like cold start noises, clutch slip test etc, then work upto more ATR specific stuff like 5th gear crunching, seized rear calipers etc.
I understand the subframe on the normal Accords can get very bad structurally, so if for example the donor car has a sub frame is showing rust etc... is it possible to re-strengthen? Never heard of Accords suffering this...can you elaborate please?
Is there support for chassis strengthening for the ATR? In the ideal world, I'd like to have my suspension set up for fast road, I don't really want straight line speed, just umph to pull out from corners. What can i do to indrease torque figures? I was actually looking to just sell the Accord and get another TDI A4 but really love the shape of the 6th gens, and I hear the H22 vtec crossover is lethal to anyones ears haha the A4 I had, had 230 ft/lb of torque to the wheels, what sort of figures does the ATR achieve? You can get bracing, but you have to buy it for the CL1 EuroR, which is exactly the same car except it has a different body (same chassis though!) and 8 more hp due to Japans higher octane fuel. Usually the bracing will have to be imported, but that isn't too expensive. ATR's put out just over 150ft.lb's standard, which may not sound like a lot, but ATR's are light and half the fun is wringing the neck out of the engine and timing your gearshifts perfectly. Stock vs Stock, an A4 TDi wouldn't know which way an ATR went especially in the bends...Infact, my old F20B6 was even able to stick with 170TDi's as I could hang onto the revs where as they were running out of puff. Even standard 6G's would destroy an A4 in the bends.
I understand the cam profiles on the standard red top H22 are engineered quite well, so would there be a point in getting stage 1/2 cams? - I'm aiming to start this project in July this year so I really really appreciate your help
Thanks!
Thanks! I will get some better pictures next time its out to play and make a thread. Heres some oldish ones from my phone, let me know how they appear on the computer!exec said:
BlueVTEC said:I would have thought so, what are the electronics like? I've never really been the electrician type, I guess I need to learn lol
Fairly simple. You just swap looms over from the ATR. After a few weeks testing and making sure the swap was safe and reliable, I then went down the independent management route using a Rywire "Plug N' Play!" loom. Works well and gives scope for future mods, plus I now have launch control!
Sounds like I may be able to handle this haaha - Will probably bug yu for help when I undertake this next month. Have a donor car I'm viewing this week so let's see what materialises. Does the launch control not damage transmission? & how well does it work with the ATR?
Think I'm gonna have to save up for a donor car then, what sort of checks am I doing on the donor car apart from the usual? Anything particular to look out for on the ATR? For a donor car, I would just concentrate on the drivetrain being in good condition as everything else will either be unneeded or easily replaceable. Start off with simple stuff like cold start noises, clutch slip test etc, then work upto more ATR specific stuff like 5th gear crunching, seized rear calipers etc.
Yeah I'm aware of the synchro issue on the pre-facelift, calipers as with all Hondas lool, luckily I can tackle reconditioning them by myself depending how seized they are. Anything engine wise??
I understand the subframe on the normal Accords can get very bad structurally, so if for example the donor car has a sub frame is showing rust etc... is it possible to re-strengthen? Never heard of Accords suffering this...can you elaborate please?
The front of the subframe is prone to rusting up, in the 6th gens I've known anyway :S - I want basically a fully strengthened front end without compromise, so wing braces, thicker strut bars top & bottom, and subframe to be structurally sound.
Is there support for chassis strengthening for the ATR? In the ideal world, I'd like to have my suspension set up for fast road, I don't really want straight line speed, just umph to pull out from corners. What can i do to indrease torque figures? I was actually looking to just sell the Accord and get another TDI A4 but really love the shape of the 6th gens, and I hear the H22 vtec crossover is lethal to anyones ears haha the A4 I had, had 230 ft/lb of torque to the wheels, what sort of figures does the ATR achieve? You can get bracing, but you have to buy it for the CL1 EuroR, which is exactly the same car except it has a different body (same chassis though!) and 8 more hp due to Japans higher octane fuel. Usually the bracing will have to be imported, but that isn't too expensive. ATR's put out just over 150ft.lb's standard, which may not sound like a lot, but ATR's are light and half the fun is wringing the neck out of the engine and timing your gearshifts perfectly. Stock vs Stock, an A4 TDi wouldn't know which way an ATR went especially in the bends...Infact, my old F20B6 was even able to stick with 170TDi's as I could hang onto the revs where as they were running out of P***. Even standard 6G's would destroy an A4 in the bends.
This is interesting, I want to look into this. the CL1 has always had a schoolboy effect on me along with the FD2 civic haha - do the revs climb up quicker on the h22 compared to the k20a???
I understand the cam profiles on the standard red top H22 are engineered quite well, so would there be a point in getting stage 1/2 cams? - I'm aiming to start this project in July this year so I really really appreciate your help
Yeah no s***! I was looking at crower stage 1 for the h22 and theyre upwards of £1000!!! All for a good cause though!!!
Thank you so much for all the advice and info mate! Really appreciate it! I will be in touch via PM in the very near future to pick your brains haha!
Those adaptors are dodgy as hell, and you'll need wheels with a really high offset due to the adaptor sticking out.aire91 said:
