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Best replacement clutch for Honda Accord (2007) 2.2l Diesel Tourer ?

ship69

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Hi

I'm *sure* this will have been discussed before... but I dont seem to be able to find where!

What is the the best replacement clutch for an Honda Accord Diesel Tourer (2007 2.2 Litre)?

Nationwide/Halfords tell me that the Honda parts are no good because they dont do more than 1 year of guarantee, but they can do it for £550 using an OUK part which also has a 2 year guarantee. However they wont pick up and have no courtesy car option so I cant use then.
(Likewise Mr Clutch will do it for me for less £549 using an aftermarket part and with a 2 year guarantee but they wont pick up and have no courtesy car option so I cant use them either)

Fahad says I need a part number ending in "325" (which I am ***uming is a genuine Honda part).
I just had a quote from a local garage for £599 all in for a Honda part (although he wouldnt tell me what the part number was!).
But although being local he could pick the vehicle up, it only has a 1 year guarantee.

The other option is the local 'stealer' dealer who do pickup and who do also offer a courtesy car - I have a feeling they only guarantee it for 1 year but either way they are the most expensive as they charge £615!

Do any of you guys have experience of getting Honda or Aftermarket parts fitted?

i.e. If there was some kind of recommended aftermarket part that was cheaper and more reliable then I could try to get my local dealer (who could then pickup the car) to fit it for a sensible price.

J
 
genuine Honda or non genuine is the same part, clutch is made by LUK, from Honda you buy it and get it in Honda packaging.. but its made by LUK
 
For ultimate peace of mind, get a CG motorsport paddle clutch. £925 fitted including a new DMF too.
 
£600 for a Genuine honda clutch and flywheel is a good price. The part number for the clutch is 22105 PGE 325 and (Clutch Pressure Plate & Cover) + 22810 PPT 003.

You may want to give Holdcroft Honda a call they are affiliated dealer of the forum!
 
I thought Honda happiness charged a flat fee of £565 for a new clutch. Why is your dealer charging £615!!! Hmm, an extra £50 in some ones pocket....
 
I thought Honda happiness charged a flat fee of £565 for a new clutch. Why is your dealer charging £615!!! Hmm, an extra £50 in some ones pocket....

Price has gone up.

http://www.honda.co.uk/cars/owners/partsandservicing/fixedpricerepairs/
 
As Fahad said a paddle clutch you will nether need a clutch again hopefully.Have a chat with Andy (Monks)
 
Like Faddy told you the "325" coded clutch kit is 25% uprated and seems to be able to cope with very mild remaps as evidenced on civinfo. If you are running a high pressure map with decent torque then a paddle clutch is going to be the one to go for.
 
Price has gone up.

http://www.honda.co.uk/cars/owners/partsandservicing/fixedpricerepairs/
They kept that quiet. :lol:

As Fahad said a paddle clutch you will nether need a clutch again hopefully.Have a chat with Andy (Monks)
Ok I'm going to ask a newbie question as I've never had to have dealings with clutches before so know nothing about them. But, what is a paddle clutch and how is it better and different to a standard clutch??
 
The benefit of a paddle set up is that it can cope with more torque / hp deal with heat more efficiently and will last longer. However its more grabby and will invoke some judder till its well bed in.
 
John
Don't know where you are but try and get to Holdcroft Honda if not a local one book it in and ask for a courtesy car. As far as halfrauds goes to say Honda genuine parts are no good is pot kettle black considering some of the ***** they sell, I wouldn't let them near my car either
Why is parc! a band word
 
I think that's what Andy paid so that's what I had in my mind but £900 is even better ;)
 
This thread came in good time.
smile.gif

I'll be needing a new clutch soon. Don't know when, but surely in a few thousand miles (i hope). In the last long trip I made, it started slipping in 4th gear at half the way to destination.

I bought the car with around 42k miles, did the remap straight away and I now have around 78k miles with the same clutch (the original one, from what I know), which is great!

I live in Portugal, but do you guys in the UK easily have non-Honda dealers to fit the clutch? Do they have the proper tools and skills?
I wouldn't mind to fit a paddle clutch, but I'm too afraid of someone messing with my car.
Do you mind sharing your experiences?
 
Hmm... tricky. Thanks for all the input, guys.

Okay, someone asked where I live - answer near Oxford but commute (3 days/week) 40 miles to the other side of Banbury (i.e. M40 J12) not far from Warwick/Leamington Spa.

Holdcroft Honda appears to be in Staffordshire - 120 miles away from my home. Probably too far away... they sound like a Honda dealer but out of interest are their prices cheaper than the official Honda prices?

The CG Motorsport Paddle Clutch sounds tempting... (if rather expensive - if DMF doesnt in fact need changing) although I already find the existing Honda clutch hard to make work smoothly. Hm... exactly how bad is that 'grab' and 'judder' and how well does the clutch end up behaving compared to the original clutch? Anyone know how long their guarantee is?


> "325" coded clutch kit is 25% uprated
Monks, what do you mean by "25% uprated" - do you mean it can cope with 25% more torque... or will last 25% longer that the orginal clutch before wearing out?

Cheers

J

P.S. My nearest local garage is quoting £320 just for the labour to fit a (any) clutch. And now he tells me that to change the gearbox oil is a further £100... :^[
Anyone know about replacement oils?
 
I also spoke to CG Motorsport.
The main problem with their clutch is that there is no guarantee of ANY sort on it (other than manufacturing faults).

They would fit their Paddle Clutch for £925 all-in including new DMF and changing gear old.
But regards them fitting it, the problem is that they are located 175 miles away from me up in Leeds - so that would be 6 (3+3) hours driving, plus about 6 hours waiting around + fuel/depreciation...!

J
 
This is simply what I have heard on the grape vine but its supposed to be uprated to take between 15-25% extra torque.

If you want to see what the paddle clutch is like your welome to pop along and try mine M5 J6
 
I also spoke to CG Motorsport.
The main problem with their clutch is that there is no guarantee of ANY sort on it (other than manufacturing faults).

They would fit their Paddle Clutch for £925 all-in including new DMF and changing gear old.
But regards them fitting it, the problem is that they are located 175 miles away from me up in Leeds - so that would be 6 (3+3) hours driving, plus about 6 hours waiting around + fuel/depreciation...!

J

I had the same concerns as you, in the end I figured it was worth the hassle just to have a (fingers crossed) complete solution. Then again I didnt mind staying over in a travel lodge and my motor is pretty heavily tuned now.
 
I think I would try and get a local guy to fit it...
Monks - How long ago did you get it done?

J
 
Ship69 one point to note that you run a chance of having the 66-1 error appear on the VSA post the clutch install. I did on my 07plate when the clutch and DMF were replaced.
Have you done over 62.5k miles? you may want to search the forums for the error code or VSA and read up ahead of a clutch install.
 
nduli - Yes, I have done 91,000 miles. Were you replacing the clutch with the original/genuine Honda or something else? (e.g. the Paddle Clutch mentioned above).
Fwiw, I am supposed to have a Silver Warranty from Autoprotect if I get any "mechanical failures"... the problem with the clutch being that after 91,000 miles it's almost bound to be a "wear and tear" issue instead I fear.
 
nduli - Yes, I have done 91,000 miles. Were you replacing the clutch with the original/genuine Honda or something else? (e.g. the Paddle Clutch mentioned above).
Fwiw, I am supposed to have a Silver Warranty from Autoprotect if I get any "mechanical failures"... the problem with the clutch being that after 91,000 miles it's almost bound to be a "wear and tear" issue instead I fear.

clutch and fly. its nothing to do with the type of clutch you go with its the process of removal, where there is a very good chance that something gets knocked - there is no specific explanation of why the VSA module fails after some major work (mainly the clutch and DMF) but it is a common occurance search the boards and you'll see what i mean. before going ahead i'd suggest checkign that warranty and seeing if its covered, if not then see if you can upgrade ;-).

I went to HH for the clutch and DMF. clutch was done under honda happiness at 615 and flywheel was a LUK OEM rather than honda boxed DMF thus saving circa £400 on the boxed version.....
 
The VSA failure has been put down to heavy handed mechanics knocking the module during works I believe.
 
I have spoken to "CG motorsport" regarding their paddle clutch. It turns out that it is a high performance clutch meaning simply that it can handle very high torque, however it's not clear how long it will actually and they give no guarantees. Rather disappointingly they talk about a likely range of 6 months to 2 or 3 years. Whereas I must admit I was hoping for something that would last for 80,000+ miles with sensible driving.

Anyone know how long (with sensible driving) these things actually do last ??

Because frankly, if it's not longer than a 2-3 of years (call it 40,000-60,000 miles mostly on motorways), then I think I'll save my money and go for the Genuine Honda 22105 PGE 325 and risk the DMF and risk a bit of slippage now and then when I drive too hard (on my Premier Tuning Stage1 remap)...

J
 
I have spoken to "CG motorsport" regarding their paddle clutch. It turns out that it is a high performance clutch meaning simply that it can handle very high torque, however it's not clear how long it will actually and they give no guarantees. Rather disappointingly they talk about a likely range of 6 months to 2 or 3 years. Whereas I must admit I was hoping for something that would last for 80,000+ miles with sensible driving.

Anyone know how long (with sensible driving) these things actually do last ??

Because frankly, if it's not longer than a 2-3 of years (call it 40,000-60,000 miles mostly on motorways), then I think I'll save my money and go for the Genuine Honda 22105 PGE 325 and risk the DMF and risk a bit of slippage now and then when I drive too hard (on my Premier Tuning Stage1 remap)...

J


To put it as simply as possible. An uprated clutch will last longer than a normal one.


Its like the difference between Black And Decker and Makita. Both tools do the same job one is more expensive and is tougher than the other. i.e it will last longer.


They are not going to tell you that the uprated clutch will last such and such mileage because they don't realistically know. They have built a clutch and flywheel based on Honda's original design and made it stronger. They don't have the years of testing available to them that Honda do so have just given you a very conservative life span estimate. If you ask Honda how long there clutch/flywheel will last you will probably get a similar reply because many factors come in to the life span of a clutch/flywheel. Do you ride the clutch, Do you drive up hill a lot, Are you prone to booting it etc etc etc.

Personally i would get the uprated clutch and not worry about changing the thing again but if you have concerns and it sounds like you do get the Honda clutch/flywheel. Chances are your car will be long gone by the time you need it doing again anyway.
 
Because frankly, if it's not longer than a 2-3 of years (call it 40,000-60,000 miles mostly on motorways),


heheh, I've covered 25K "mostly motorway" miles since mine started slipping in 3/4th!!!! its no worse in general driving now than it was back then.... I'm hoping for another 25-30K before it finally gives up the ghost.

Treat it carefully and I dont see how you can go through a clutch in 40K, dont sit holding the car on the clutch on hills, no silly traffic light grand prix starts with high revs and slipping clutches, creep in the right gear with clutch fully released in traffic. whilst it aint slipping it aint wearing!!!!!!
 
Yikes!

I just had the CG motorsport paddle clutch fitted (& DMF) AND I changed oil to the Exol stuff from www.lubetechshop.co.uk and... disaster! The engine now is/seems at least TWICE as noisy.
Is this normal?

I am wondering if my mechanic has left some parts out when putting the car back together again or whether, because the new clutch is (presumably) a different shape, that this is allowing more sound to get into the ****pit... :^(
Btw, as expected the clutch takes a bit of getting used to (it judders very slightly in 1st and it grabs traction somewhat)..., it makes the car feel rather unsophisticated but it seems broadly fine to me.

On the up-side, the car certainly seems to be running very well (with the new oil). Lots of torque and I swear MPG has improved (more on that later).

But what's the story on the increased engine noise? (The noises are broadly similar to before just much louder - as if a sound proofing baffle has been removed)
Is this normal?(!) Could it be due to the new oil - or will it be something to do with the new clutch?

...And either way is there any cure? (!)

I just spend quite a lot of money trying to quieten the bl**dy car and now the engine/turbo is (subjectively) at least twice as lound :^(

J
 
John that's really interesting feedback as I remember Andy (monks) had a similar experience after he had his CG clutch fitted to his Accord tourer (almost identical car to yours ironically). Even I noticed it when we went for a run.. we put it on the ramp and couldn't see anything wrong with exhaust clamps etc.. but then a few days later Andy SMS'd me to tell me he'd fixed it. Apparently CG had left a grommet out somewhere and it was transfering noise back into the cabin..

I do think the design of the paddle clutch means it will probably create some additional noise but it should never be intrusive.
 
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