boot wont unlock
- Thread starter the big read
- Start date
the big read
Members
The green plug is for the boot light. with a orange wire for negative signal when boot open and white wire is 12volt connsant. it plugs into the light on the boot.
maybe i wasnt clear earlier the blue plug comes comes from the mechanisum and it is the 1 that sends the negative signal to the oarnage wire and to the other boot light.
hope this makes sence.
Yeah thought it might be. Cool cheers dude.
I am truly stuck then it would seem. There is no way the lock can become undone if its locked electrically. Fail
AcesHigh
Members
Steve - I'm sure the tab that Tin-Man pointed to will manually unlock the mechanism. I have got a spare in front of me and if I move the arm it will engage/disengage the handle mechanism to "catch" the latch.
This is done via 2 white plastic arms - 1 attached on the mechanism and 1 attached to the cream motor housing. Could it be that these arms aren't joined any more at the pivot point? You may be able to get your fingers to the arm attached to the mechanism and move it enough to engage the handle.
Based on Tin-Man's reply with the voltages I have just had another look at my car. With the boot open I get absolutely nothing until I unplug the Blue 2-wire connection. Then I get the following:
White/Red - 12v briefly when locking
Yellow/Red - nothing when locking or unlocking
Grey - 12v constant only when the car is locked/deadlocked
With the boot closed (Blue 2-wire connected) and me attempting to fit in the boot I get the following:
White/Red - 0.5v briefly when locking
Yellow/Red - nothing
Grey - nothing
I cannot find the Blue 3-wire plug that Tin-Man pictured - can you please point out where it is in relation to the grey or Blue 2-wire connector? I can then check to see what I am getting from that.
I checked the voltage of the Blue 2-wire and get nothing when locking or unlocking - I don't know if this is correct.
One other thing - is the grey latch directly above the bumper anything to do with this? The one with the black plastic uprights on either side. Mine is slightly off centre and I don't know if this has something to do with the detector to check if the boot is closed - I'm clutching at straws here.
Cheers
This is done via 2 white plastic arms - 1 attached on the mechanism and 1 attached to the cream motor housing. Could it be that these arms aren't joined any more at the pivot point? You may be able to get your fingers to the arm attached to the mechanism and move it enough to engage the handle.
Based on Tin-Man's reply with the voltages I have just had another look at my car. With the boot open I get absolutely nothing until I unplug the Blue 2-wire connection. Then I get the following:
White/Red - 12v briefly when locking
Yellow/Red - nothing when locking or unlocking
Grey - 12v constant only when the car is locked/deadlocked
With the boot closed (Blue 2-wire connected) and me attempting to fit in the boot I get the following:
White/Red - 0.5v briefly when locking
Yellow/Red - nothing
Grey - nothing
I cannot find the Blue 3-wire plug that Tin-Man pictured - can you please point out where it is in relation to the grey or Blue 2-wire connector? I can then check to see what I am getting from that.
I checked the voltage of the Blue 2-wire and get nothing when locking or unlocking - I don't know if this is correct.
One other thing - is the grey latch directly above the bumper anything to do with this? The one with the black plastic uprights on either side. Mine is slightly off centre and I don't know if this has something to do with the detector to check if the boot is closed - I'm clutching at straws here.
Cheers
the 3 wire blue plug is over at the key hole in the boot lid, it sends a negative signal to the cenrtal locking unit.
when the blue 2wire plug is not fitted in you will not get any readings at both wires rest on earth.
when the blue 2wire plag is fitted in the black wire will always read 0 volts and the orange will read 12 volts if the boot is closed and 0 volts when open.
"White/Red - 0.5v briefly when locking" this is just a jump on the voltmeter (doesn't mean anything)
I woul check the rubber gromet where the wires pass from the boot into the car as i have seen lots of cars with boot faults cozed by wires snapping and braking at this point of flex. (not common on hondas tho) but by the lack of signals suggest it could be a broken loom
the boot light switch (boot open detector) is part of the mecanisum, nothing to do with the bumper catch, the black plastic bits are for guidding the lock into place.
ye m8 am sure it does
is yours like this 1
Exactly the one (except mines a bit worn).
I went out and tried holding it down and the boot lid popped up!
Chuffed with that!
It'll be a good party trick to show the other half when out shopping
Exactly the one (except mines a bit worn).
I went out and tried holding it down and the boot lid popped up!
Chuffed with that!
It'll be a good party trick to show the other half when out shopping
haha it really will be! she will defos be loving the honda more
the big read
Members
FIXED IT!!
At last! As I was fiddling with the lock mech (boot still firmly locks) from the inside of the boot I felt there was tension on the latch near where it strikes the lock. At first I ***umed that it would only push that small distance, but when I was ***essing the other lock I bought earlier this year I realised that a little extra force would strike it. I instantly changed it for the replacement lock mech but, since playing with the offending lock mech, I can find no obvious reason why it wouldnt work!?!?!
Either way though...ITS FINALLY FIXED!
I am also no longer selling the car as the one I was gonna buy off my Dad is going to my brother as he is likely to pass his test soon. So I shall be annoying you all some more for your knowledge on various little bits.
Cheers for the help with this issue!!
At last! As I was fiddling with the lock mech (boot still firmly locks) from the inside of the boot I felt there was tension on the latch near where it strikes the lock. At first I ***umed that it would only push that small distance, but when I was ***essing the other lock I bought earlier this year I realised that a little extra force would strike it. I instantly changed it for the replacement lock mech but, since playing with the offending lock mech, I can find no obvious reason why it wouldnt work!?!?!
Either way though...ITS FINALLY FIXED!
I am also no longer selling the car as the one I was gonna buy off my Dad is going to my brother as he is likely to pass his test soon. So I shall be annoying you all some more for your knowledge on various little bits.
Cheers for the help with this issue!!
CJM
Dr. Diesel
the big read
Members
thats awesome
oh and good you got it fixed too lol
Yeah dude, keeping her. Was only gonna buy my old man's car as it was super cheap to buy and run.
AcesHigh
Members
Looks like good news all round.
Following the tip to check the rubber grommet I found two wires snapped completely (going to the grey motor plug) and 3 with the sheathing wearing out. Some bullet connectors (I can't solder for toffee) and a lot of insulating tape later I also have a working boot lock!
Thank you very much for everyone's help - especially Tin-Man with the detail & pictures.
Cheers.
Following the tip to check the rubber grommet I found two wires snapped completely (going to the grey motor plug) and 3 with the sheathing wearing out. Some bullet connectors (I can't solder for toffee) and a lot of insulating tape later I also have a working boot lock!
Thank you very much for everyone's help - especially Tin-Man with the detail & pictures.
Cheers.
the big read
Members
Hello again. Guess what?
Its happened again. This time I cant rectify it as before. The plugs under the glove box all plugged in ok, the problem seems to me to be a clear electrical fault. When my mate gets home (hes got electrical testing wotsit) we will give that a bash and see what figures it gives. Will have a read up on previous comments first, of course.
It is becoming a serious pain.
Will report back with any findings, or a video to show how one man can crush a car with his bare hands B)
Its happened again. This time I cant rectify it as before. The plugs under the glove box all plugged in ok, the problem seems to me to be a clear electrical fault. When my mate gets home (hes got electrical testing wotsit) we will give that a bash and see what figures it gives. Will have a read up on previous comments first, of course.
It is becoming a serious pain.
Will report back with any findings, or a video to show how one man can crush a car with his bare hands B)
the big read
Members
THIS I may go and check in a mo.
the big read
Members
Hello
Hope I am able to get some more info if possible.
Yesterday was at this all day......
Checked continuity from the grey plug all the way down to the glove box area. Everything seemed fine. Also took the boot lock motor apart and tested that the motor works. It does.
Utterly stumped. Once plugged into the grey box behind the glove box, where does the connection go?
Thanks
Hope I am able to get some more info if possible.
Yesterday was at this all day......
Checked continuity from the grey plug all the way down to the glove box area. Everything seemed fine. Also took the boot lock motor apart and tested that the motor works. It does.
Utterly stumped. Once plugged into the grey box behind the glove box, where does the connection go?
Thanks
the big read
Members
Hello
Hope I am able to get some more info if possible.
Yesterday was at this all day......
Checked continuity from the grey plug all the way down to the glove box area. Everything seemed fine. Also took the boot lock motor apart and tested that the motor works. It does.
Utterly stumped. Once plugged into the grey box behind the glove box, where does the connection go?
Thanks
Hope I am able to get some more info if possible.
Yesterday was at this all day......
Checked continuity from the grey plug all the way down to the glove box area. Everything seemed fine. Also took the boot lock motor apart and tested that the motor works. It does.
Utterly stumped. Once plugged into the grey box behind the glove box, where does the connection go?
Thanks
luvmyaccord
6th & Type R Mod
As far as i'm aware the boot runs on a closed circuit. So just a live from the fuse box and the main connections.
Gordon should be able to give you a definate answer when he sees this though. Sorry i can't be of more help.
Gordon should be able to give you a definate answer when he sees this though. Sorry i can't be of more help.
AcesHigh
Members
Hi, when I was checking my wiring the continuity was showing as fine.
Have you checked the wiring where it goes into the rubber grommet by the boot? The first time I checked I just gave it a cursory glance, but when I pulled the grommet back properly and started to check each wire that is when I found the broken ones.
Hope it helps!
the big read
Members
Had a quick look today (sorn on someone else's drive so not always an opportunity)...
Unfortunately the rain was pretty much unrelenting so for the few mins it stopped I tried to look under the gromet. That thing is damned stubborn! Is it even possible to have a thorough look without slicing it open? Lol
Unfortunately the rain was pretty much unrelenting so for the few mins it stopped I tried to look under the gromet. That thing is damned stubborn! Is it even possible to have a thorough look without slicing it open? Lol
AcesHigh
Members
I know what you're on about with it being stubborn!
I did consider cutting it when I was struggling to join the split wires together but decided against it because I knew I wouldn't be able to reseal it properly.
I did consider cutting it when I was struggling to join the split wires together but decided against it because I knew I wouldn't be able to reseal it properly.
mite be a bit late with this 1 but i have been all over the passengers fuse box and all my testing i havent found the boot lucking wires can find the rear window heater but have been looking for the boot open light and cant find it ether grr
i have worked out tho that all the white/red 16gauge wires are for powering the motor lock side and all the Green/red 16gauge wires are for powering the motor unlock side.
on the front of the fuse box first plug above the fuses is going to the rear passengers door and boot.
have still got some more wires to test tho, if it wasnt raining i would do alot more looking.
can find the rear window heater but have been looking for the boot open light and cant find it ether grri have worked out tho that all the white/red 16gauge wires are for powering the motor lock side and all the Green/red 16gauge wires are for powering the motor unlock side.
on the front of the fuse box first plug above the fuses is going to the rear passengers door and boot.
have still got some more wires to test tho, if it wasnt raining i would do alot more looking.