Menu
What's new
By:
Advanced search...

Crazy phantom battery drain ?

No sign of the immoes under the drivers side.
Only thing I found was a "cleaner unit". The wife wants to know if that will automatically vac the inside of the car. LOL
The battery disconnector arrived this morning, neat little device.
Only problem - the lug is slightly under diameter so I wrapped some aly foil to pack it out.
The earth strap then fitted fine and clamped nice and tight.
Will try it over the next few weeks and if there's any problem, it's only two nuts and back to standard.
 
I vaguely remembered looking in the garnish for the steering column ages ago, I think the IMOES might be in there

I think it is part 15 in this link http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17SED01&block_02=B__1101&block_03=445

couple of pics here

IMAG0406.jpg


IMAG0407.jpg



more links to the garnish ***embly

http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17SED01&block_02=B__3711&block_03=445

http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17SED01&block_02=B__3200&block_03=445
 
^ I've just done a search on the DVD for "immobilizer" and that is the immobilizer receiver in #242 above

according to the DVD (search "imoes") the IMOES is in the glove box
 
"Immobilizer System Circuit Diagram" on the DVD is interesting

I thought that the IMOES was for the RFID in the key, but looking at that circuit diagram, seems not so.
 
It could be. The article I read goes on about the key having a "rolling code" and the immobiliser in the ignition lock and the immoes must agree before power is applied to the ecu. I'll have another look behind the glovebox when I get chance. Maybe the bracket is obscuring it. I do remember hearing a relay type clicking from that area some time ago.
Off out tonight so any more comments will be tomorrow. Cheers.
 
I went and had a look on my car, and I reckon the IMOES relay is up behind the passenger air vent, on a bracket (like in the pic on the DVD), but the bracket is bolted onto the back of the big round bar that runs across behind the glovebox, where it can't be seen.

The only ways I could figure to get at it, would be to either remove the cover over the passenger SRS (which I don't fancy trying, and nothing in the DVD about this)., or to pull out the passenger vent (something in the DVD which doesn't seem so simple on the actual car)

If you can figure out how to get to it and want me to try it first (I have an HDS in case something needs resetting), then let me know
But if it has a "rolling code" then it should be ok to unplug it and then lock the car

I wish I knew what IMOES stands for ...Irritating Miniscule Omron Electrically Suspicious
 
Does the car have auto headlights? If so are they left in the auto position? If so switch them off and retest. I vaguely remember a civic suffering a similar problem and it was to do with the auto lights.
 
if it's an Executive then it should have factory fitted HID, and if it has factory fitted HID then it should have auto-levelling

edit: I just remembered that for some reason your car was fitted with manual control of the HID
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/18505-headlight-adjustment/#entry202395
but a previous owner had also messed about with the wiring

maybe the previous owner had fitted the manual control themselves, and the factory fitted auto unit is still there ??
if so, that unit does have a link to the ECM/PCM (aka engine ECU), as well as the SCS, plus a link to the Combination Switch Control Unit (which is on the B-CAN)



btw, as an aside, on the DVD, here is the list of items for fuse 7 on the CN1 ....

CN1 fuse 7 - Alarm control siren, Combination light switch control unit, Gauge control module, Immobilizer control unit−receiver, Imoes unit, Navigation display unit, Navigation unit, Ultrasonic sensor

if I were you, I'd consider unplugging
1. siren (I think you did it previously)
2. immobilizer control unit-receiver
3. Imoes unit
4. Ultrasonic sensor

and if they don't stop it
5. Combination Switch Control Unit
 
Has the car got front fog lights? They did suffer relays failing due to water ingress and gave you tried removing the ac relay? They can also give problems
 
^ if you remove the compressor relay on the diesel car, it brings on the glow plug light which won't go out unless a fault code is cleared
 
Yes but if you remove it with ignition off and the ammeter connected you will know if that is causing a problem. Also they rattle when they fail
 
^ aircon has nothing to do with fuse 7 either .....if he removes fuse 7, the drain of current stops.

hence .....
CN1 fuse 7 - Alarm control siren, Combination light switch control unit, Gauge control module, Immobilizer control unit−receiver, Imoes unit, Navigation display unit, Navigation unit, Ultrasonic sensor
 
Well as he hasn't managed to find it I'm just offering suggestions from previous experience of battery drain issues I've seen in the past and even taking the fuse out for ac the relay can still cause a drain.
 
Sorry for absence guys, been a hectic Bank hol weekend.

There aren't auto lights, and the dips are H1 bulbs - I changed them some time ago.

The HID's were an option on the diesel EX.

The fog fuses have been removed and made no difference.

If I get chance later I'll have another look for the imoes, I have a small inspection mirror so maybe be able to see up the back of things.

Don't fancy touching the airbags or stripping the ducting out but I'll see where it is first.

I agree that it won't hurt to disconnect it as taking the fuse out didn't cause any problem.

I have looked at the wiring checks in the manual and if it is a relay of some sort, it could deffinitely be keeping power on to the ECM/PCM.

Disconnecting it should prove that, one way or the other.
 
Found the little fella. As you said tucked away above and behind the round bar. Managed to get a hand on it, but no way to do anything without stripping a lot out. Even took the end cover off the dash but only a steel plate behind that. Could touch the bolt on the bracket but no way to get a spanner there. It's easy if you look at the manual but that doesn't tell you how much has to be removed to get at it. Lol
 
yep that's exactly what I did, found that that "end cap" allows access to ...nothing LOL

I looked on the DVD at removing the vent, and gave up on that. :rolleyes: Meanwhile I had disconnected the battery (DVD says wait 3 minutes before the following) and tried to lift that "passenger SRS airbag" cover, it does come up a bit, but it doesn't seem to want to budge more than an inch all the way round :unsure: :huh:
 
Think I'm going to have to put up with the battery disconnected route for now. If I could prove the drain goes away with the imoes unplugged, I'd consider getting it changed at honda. It isn't a ridiculously expensive bit but it would need programming so I guess that may be a few bob in labour. Think I'll leave it till after hols now. Thanks again, I'll let you know how things progress. I'd love to be able to post a solution for future reference.
 
I went out to my car yesterday to start it up (car is SORN round the back of the house and I leave the engine running for about an hour every couple of months) ....... and the alarm went off as soon as I pressed the button on the keyfob :eek:

I've seen this before, it indicates a totally flat battery. I put the key in the ignition and sure enough, nothing. With the alarm still going, but getting quieter and quieter, I put a charger onto the battery, and after about 5 minutes the alarm stopped. I had to leave the battery on charge for an hour before there was enough to start the car, it was totally flat.

I reckon that once the battery drops below a certain voltage, something "crowbars" and the drain increases. Some really daft and badly thought out Honda electronics.

If that hypothesis is correct, then it's possible that in some cars the "crowbar" action starts at too high a voltage.

I wonder if it's something to do with the alternator and/or charging circuit ?
 
Hi all, just back from hols and the battery disconnect device worked a treat.
Parked the car myself, unscrewed the connector.
Back after 2 weeks, screwed the contactor back in, and the car started as though it had just been left.
Satnav straight on and all systems fine.
Only nightmare was the M25 - 2 1/2 hours from Gatwick to the M4.
Teach me to go a different way. LOL
So pleased I've beaten Honda's electrical system.
Regards to all.
 
geoffdragon said:
Hi all, just back from hols and the battery disconnect device worked a treat.
Parked the car myself, unscrewed the connector.
Back after 2 weeks, screwed the contactor back in, and the car started as though it had just been left.
Satnav straight on and all systems fine.
Only nightmare was the M25 - 2 1/2 hours from Gatwick to the M4.
Teach me to go a different way. LOL
So pleased I've beaten Honda's electrical system.
Regards to all.
Click to expand...
apart from M25, everything sounds good

did you see in #266 that the battery went flat in my car anyway, even at <10mA (although I had removed the W-h meter, so I ***ume it was <10mA , up until some point in time)
 
Hi Brian, sorry to hear your problem is persisting.
You could be right about the draw increasing when the voltage drops below a certain level.
I disconnected my alternator at one time whilst testing but that didn't make any difference on mine.
Looks like you'll have to leave the meter connected for a much longer period to try to find where it "falls off the cliff"
Good luck, I've given up on mine now that I have another solution but will continue to watch the thread.
Best regards, Geoff
 
geoffdragon said:
Looks like you'll have to leave the meter connected for a much longer period to try to find where it "falls off the cliff"
Click to expand...
yep, that's what I intend to do, maybe I might be able to pinpoint when and how it happens, but I will have to leave it connected for a couple of months and check every day :eek:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top