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Error code P0193 Fuel Pressure High Input

Dave G said:
Does the reading change with the sensor disconnected?
Click to expand...
NO It changes only if i put a jumper wire on sensor connector pins 2 and 3 then the reading goes to ´0´
 
Could it be the plug on the end of the cable isn't correctly mating with the sensor or a pin in the plug is damaged as you seem to have the symptoms of no sensor connected?
 
Hi

So now finnaly i got time to deale with my car. I boght a re used sensor for 40 euros and tested the resistance on both sensors. Between pin 2 and 3 is 8,5 Ohms.
So i dont know are both FRP broken or OK.
 
could anybody confirm what should be the resistance on a working FRP sensor between pin 2 a 3
 
So end of story
I toed my car back to the garage that mechanics can look what could be the problem. The FRP sensor was not connected to the fuel rail and the battery was empty.
They recharged the battery and connected the my original FRP to the fuel rail, bleed the system and the car started on first turn.
So in is a little strange that Dealer advised me to change the FRP because it was broken, but in the end my car is running with the same sensor.
Anyway i changed the fuel filter for a OEM part.
Could it be a bad battery ?
 
Maybe just a language issue, but this is confusing... how can the fuel rail pressure sensor not have been connected to the fuel rail? Fuel would have been pumping out of the hole!

I don't think the original problem was caused by either a poor fuel filter or a worn battery. I think there may be a bad connection somewhere.
 
Just the sensor was not connected for a week or so and when i toed the car in to the garage.

But i will see if the problem comes back
 
Hi guys again
The car worked exactly one week then it died again. Same problem P0193. After that it was standing for two weeks and i was not able to start it.
Then it started and worked for two days then died again. Nothing was don on the car i was just able to clear the error code,

I consulted with the dealer and they suggested me to order a new ECU. So now i´m looking for to get a salvage part. New one cost 640 euros

If i find a replacement ECU dealer will update it and hopefully my problems are solved
 
Sorry it's packed up again. I'd want to rule out any connection problems before buying another ECU... including the connections on the actual ECU (unplug, have a look for any corrosion/breakage and then reconnect). Maybe even look inside the ECU to see if there are any obvious problems (caused by, say, condensation?).

Thanks for letting us know.
 
OK sorry i´ll try my best.
The wires from the ECU to the sensor are tested several times with 12 volts and with a tester. i have cleaned and checked all connectors.
I opened the original ECU and sent it to a electrician, he looked everything thou and did some work on it - no results.
So i have tried everything and this is the last solution.
Thanx for replay
 
OK. I see you have done everything possible.

Yes, a salvage part would be cheaper and should work OK... they don't seem to go wrong very often (you are just unlucky). You might also need the immobiliser/security/keys from the same salvage vehicle.
 
My dealer said that it is ok if i just get a ECU what has the same part number (37820-RBD-E34 or 37820-RBD-E34) no need to get a key and ign.barrel. Then they can rewrite the data in it. But it is just theory, they actually haven't tried it on salvage ECU only on new ones.
Is it correct or you have some other info.

And i looks a bit difficult to get a ECU what has the right part number, there arent many on the market. As you said they don't get wrong very often
 
I have never replaced an ECU on a Honda... I was just thinking about what other bits might be necessary... I'm sure your dealer knows what they are doing!

I would expect that another ECU with the same part number as yours would work OK? There should be some in scrap yards... I just found one on the UK eBay site which might be suitable (but I am unable to post links, sorry)?
 
So i hope this is the end of my problems.

Brain surgery was successful!!

So i got new ECU from salvage jard. The important thing is that the new ECU have to have the same part number as your old ECU no need to have ign. barrel and IMMO brain. Dealer can tell what part number will fit to your car, in my case it had to be 37820-RBD-E34 or 37820-RBD-E35. Honda dealer programmed the new ECU to my IMMO and made changes in the registry, deleted old error codes and car was running. Time for this job is less then one hour.

So thanks guys for your support.
 
When changing the fuel rail sensor... Does the sensor need programming or is it simply a plug snd play thing?
 
Hello,

I have a problem: P0193 - Fuel rail pressure sensor; signal voltage is too high.

My car driving goes off and DO NOT CONTINUE. Making diagnosis indicates a fuel pressure of 180 MPa, is to be 30 MPa. After 1-2 hours parking the car magically starts, and the error disappears. After the rides again for 3-4 weeks without any problems. It already lasts 5 months. Can it be ECU problem?

Thanks!
 
It's possibly a bad fuel rail pressure sensor especially if it solves itself after being stood for a while.
 
But it is strange that somewhere in the month driven without any damage. And then again throws an error. Well you should try to change the fuel pressure sensor.
 
Faulty sensors can do this. It's early sign of it breaking down.
 
The problem still exists. Replaced fuel pressure sensor and fuel pressure regulator. Could it be the main relay or ecu?
 
Well they get supply from the ecu so yes it's possible that is faulty
 
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