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IMRC / EGR Valve

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CarlStewart

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Location
Warrington
Car
Accord
HI Guys,
Had my 2.2 diesel's error codes read earlier and got the following codes :-

P0403 - EGR Valve - Open Circuit
p2008 - IMRC Solenoid Valve Circuit Open
AC04 - Unknown Fault Code
0026 - Unknown Fault Code


The car is running like a dog, no acceleration with black smoke when pushed. Thought it was turbo issue, as have had the EGR off and cleaned and all seemed well.


I'm looking for some advice - if the IMRC valve solenoid is faulty - does that control the EGR valve? (what I'm asking is if I sort the IMRC solenoid will that sort the EGR issue or are they totally separate issues?)


Cheers
Carl
 
It's worth clearing the codes and seeing which ones come back and are therefore specific to your current problem (the Bosch EDC16 ECU stores all codes indefinitely until actively deleted). Is your car a pre-facelift? They have different EGR actuators to facelift ones. IMRC and EGR valve each have their own actuator. Odd that the fault codes relate to electrical issues.

EDIT - I can't identify those last 2 error codes either.

The smoking makes it sound like a possible turbo problem or intercooler/boost pipe leak to me.
 
What year Accord is it? Is it Facelife or Pre-Facelift? The EGR in the PFL was via an electronic solenoid but on the FL it was controlled by a vacuum.

The EGR and IMRC are controlled by different systems, and in my experience, I generally fix the first issue logged first as it can cause the other issues to manifest themselves. In the case of the EGR, it does feedback into the intake manifold via the IMRC, so it could have a direct impact. Anyhow, I would focus on the EGR issue first. If it's PFL you can throw 12V across the poles to check the open/close function.

If this is good, then I could clean the IMRC and it's probably full of gunk, after that I'd be looking at the IMRC value (FSV) thingy.
 
Jon_G said:
It's worth clearing the codes and seeing which ones come back and are therefore specific to your current problem (the Bosch EDC16 ECU stores all codes indefinitely until actively deleted). Is your car a pre-facelift? They have different EGR actuators to facelift ones. IMRC and EGR valve each have their own actuator. Odd that the fault codes relate to electrical issues.
Click to expand...

I need to type faster! :blush:

But what Jon said.
 
Thanks for your input guys - Yes the car is Pre facelift 2004.

I didn't read codes myself - a local garage did (courtesy of a £5 groupon deal!) so I don't know whats on/off as regards codes etc.

Is there a DIY on forcing the EGR valve to operate?? I'm going cross-eyed following links on here that lead to threads with more links!!!

Cheers
 
Is there a way of testing the FSV? and could that be linked to my faults?

Sorry if that seems a stupid question!
 
CarlStew72 said:
Is there a DIY on forcing the EGR valve to operate?? I'm going cross-eyed following links on here that lead to threads with more links!!!
Click to expand...
Not really - well not that I know of. I think I've a good EGR valve knocking around here, let me see if I can dig it out and show you want you need to do to test it.


CarlStew72 said:
Is there a way of testing the FSV? and could that be linked to my faults?
Click to expand...
Not really, it's controlled via pulses from the ECU as how much to open, close. You would need a Honda Diagnostic System (HDS) to run this level of testing, so it would be difficult to do at home. A stuck EGR and FSV are unfortunately two common failure points with the diesel.

Gimme a few minutes and I'll revert back with the EGR test.
 
Thanks mate!
rolleyes.gif
 
Ok, here ya go. I make no apologies for the video editing on this - there is none! Hopefully it'll give you and idea of how best you can test this.

Make sure the valve opens and closes cleanly, if it does then I'd clean the IMRC next. If it doesn't, you've found the problem. :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgFY10NgMtk
 
jayok said:
Ok, here ya go. I make no apologies for the video editing on this - there is none! Hopefully it'll give you and idea of how best you can test this.

Make sure the valve opens and closes cleanly, if it does then I'd clean the IMRC next. If it doesn't, you've found the problem. :)

http://www.youtube.c...h?v=wgFY10NgMtk
Click to expand...

Fantastic Mate, Great Job - Can't thank you enough for doing that.

I'll whip it off over weekend and do a test.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Again, thanks for that - much appreciated.


 
CarlStew72 said:
Fantastic Mate, Great Job - Can't thank you enough for doing that.

I'll whip it off over weekend and do a test.

I'll let you know how I get on.

Again, thanks for that - much appreciated.
Click to expand...

No problem - hope it helps. Keep us posted!
 
It's hard to tell how far it's opening from the photo but as there's pressure in the exhaust it'll generally be ok. In practical terms it's about a 1.5 cm or there abouts

When you add remove the voltage does it snap open and close quickly?

For cleaning I used a toothbrush and some oven cleaner.
 
jayok said:
It's hard to tell how far it's opening from the photo but as there's pressure in the exhaust it'll generally be ok. In practical terms it's about a 1.5 cm or there abouts

When you add remove the voltage does it snap open and close quickly?

For cleaning I used a toothbrush and some oven cleaner.
Click to expand...

if you click the photo (its actually a video!?) its only opening a few mm - with the 12v applied and the valve open, I can push the valve down much further with my screwdriver and there seems to a bit of resistance/squeaking/creaking in there?


 
Hi Carl,

Sorry only seeing your feedback now. Looking at the video, it appears that the valve isn't opening a wide as the one in my video. Now, it could be fatigued coils/spring etc. Does it close properly. The feedback from the sensors could be that the EGR is open as the it's not "seeing" the correct volume of exhaust gas through. Though normally and open circuit means its not pulling the right power.

Did you check out the IMRC and clean it? Make sure the swirl flap is free to move and there's no gunk in there. Of this is good, I'd be to test with a good EGR.

Sorry for the delay, I at the game where the All Blacks beat us.... again. :(
 
Thanks for your reply! Never mind about the rugby!!

I did clean the iirc a few months back - flap was ok and moving freely.

My next port of call is to get a EGR off fleabay OR look at FSV, what would you recommend next?
 
CarlStew72 said:
Thanks for your reply! Never mind about the rugby!!

I did clean the iirc a few months back - flap was ok and moving freely.

My next port of call is to get a EGR off fleabay OR look at FSV, what would you recommend next?
Click to expand...

Both the EGR and FSV is weak on the iCTDi - so take your pick. What can you get cheaper/easier?

There was a guy in here who got an FSV from a breaker for £10!
 
Thanks Mate - There's a EGR on ebay for 55 at moment - so I'll probably go with that and see where that leads me!!

I'll post new findings when I get it on!

Thanks for your help (again!)
 
CarlStew72 said:
Thanks Mate - There's a EGR on ebay for 55 at moment - so I'll probably go with that and see where that leads me!!

I'll post new findings when I get it on!

Thanks for your help (again!)
Click to expand...

I sent you a PM - check it first.
 
If you want to PM someone, there's a little bug right now. But if you go to their profile and then select to message the person from there and use the full editor as opposed to the small pop up window, you should be ok. It should work like that.
 
Stevearcade said:
If you want to PM someone, there's a little bug right now. But if you go to their profile and then select to message the person from there and use the full editor as opposed to the small pop up window, you should be ok. It should work like that.
Click to expand...

Ok, - thanks Steve.
 
jayok said:
Ok, here ya go. I make no apologies for the video editing on this - there is none! Hopefully it'll give you and idea of how best you can test this.

Make sure the valve opens and closes cleanly, if it does then I'd clean the IMRC next. If it doesn't, you've found the problem. :)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wgFY10NgMtk
Click to expand...
Nice vid! Link to it now in my favourites (just in case...)
 
Jon_G said:
Nice vid! Link to it now in my favourites (just in case...)
Click to expand...

Thanks! Sometimes if you see the stuff in action, it greatly removes the mystery! B)
 
Update - swapped EGR with one from Jayok (thanks again for this) but same issue - runs like a dog, but no error lights.

Have cleaned IMRC and EGR (prior to change)
tried running with FSV disconnected

next port of call is turbo boost vacuum soleniod (does anyone know how to test this or am I better just getting one and swapping??)

Of anyone knows of anything else to test/clean - please let me know!

Cheers
Carl
 
Ok, well at least you know it's not the EGR :(

I would look at the FSV next rather than the EVR. The EVR controls the turbo vanes that creates the level of boost available. You're not getting a boost error, but an IMRC, so I'd lean towards the FSV first.
 
So would that tell you that the FSV isn't doing anything?? If you manually move the IMRC do you get a difference?
 
Just re-reading this thread and thinking about it. Can you see the FSV move the IMRC valve on its own? To see this, take off the plastic engine cover and start the car. Get someone to rev the engine and you should see the arm acutate
 
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