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Newbie and another ABS TCS light problem

A

ANXIETY

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Location
GIBRALTAR
Car
HONDA ACCORD TYPE S
Hi guys, first I'd like to introduce myself as a newbe here. I am Adrian from Gibraltar, I've had a problem free Honda Accord type-s for about 3 1/2 years.

Now for the problem :( ...After having to charge the battery due to not using the car for a couple of months, when I went to wire it I stupidly put the wires the wrong way round. I only noticed when something was clicking and one of the terminals didnt fit. Changed it the right way round and the car was dead. There was no smoke or burning smell (I clearly remember checking)

The first thing I found was I had blown the multi-block fuse. After replacing the fuse I got another bag of nasty surprises, no radio/aircon display and the dreaded ABS, TCS and red brake warning light.

The radio was an easy fix, only needed a new 10amp fuse but I am stuck with those lights.

Now the history is that before all this, my brakes squealed a bit needing a change of pads but I had no lights at all. I've checked my brake fluid and it seems fine although I could not check the float as I cannot see one.
Another factor is that during the car was parked up in my covered carking space resurfacing works have been carried out up to where my space is. Could the sensors be fouled up with dust from the works?

I'm going to replace the pads anyway and see how it goes but any thoughts?

And appologies for the long essay lol :blush:
 
What car is it? Petrol or diesel?

You need to have the codes read to know exactly what it is
 
Welcome to the Forum. As Fahad says.

:)
 
Hi, thanks for the quick replys.
Its a Gen7 2.4 petrol engine.
Finding the codes is going to be a bit of a problem as I doubt very much there is going to be a place near with a code reader for abs faults.
If the lights are still on when I do the pads I'll have to look for a code reader.
 
Update- I've just come back from driving the car and I have found somthing very unusual.

I had asummed the brakes needed changing because I thought I was hearing the brake indicator.
The noise isnt there anymore and I have done a visual inspection and the brakes seem to still have plenty of meat in them......... :wacko: :blink: Very strange.
Has any one heard the scaping noise like from a wear indicator and the pads are fine?
 
Did you actually check the wear on the pads that actually have the wear indicators fitted?

Otherwise, you may just have had a stone lodged behind the brake disc splash shield?
 
Jon_G said:
Did you actually check the wear on the pads that actually have the wear indicators fitted?

Otherwise, you may just have had a stone lodged behind the brake disc splash shield?
Click to expand...
I havn't taken it apart or anything but I can see through the spokes that they still have plenty of km's oops sorry miles on them lol. The rear is a bit slim but still nothing to worry about.
I am also ***uming I've got the same wear on the pads on the inside that I cant see. I might have to atleast take the wheel off.
 
the 2.4 is peculiar with all things ***ociated with the wheels, (ie speed sensors etc) if there is a slightest problem a light is most likely going to occur on the dash (the ! or vsa etc etc)

I suggest you take off the wheels, have a good look at all the speed sensors. You will most definitely need access to a proper diag tool though to read codes/reset codes

can you get access to that? a cheap bluetooth one will not do vsa codes.

I had a silly garage break a speed sensor 2 years ago during a clutch change, the (!) was on and I had to get a new abs/wheel sensor installed and get the ecu reset.
 
toffee_pie said:
the 2.4 is peculiar with all things ***ociated with the wheels, (ie speed sensors etc) if there is a slightest problem a light is most likely going to occur on the dash (the ! or vsa etc etc)

I suggest you take off the wheels, have a good look at all the speed sensors. You will most definitely need access to a proper diag tool though to read codes/reset codes

can you get access to that? a cheap bluetooth one will not do vsa codes.

I had a silly garage break a speed sensor 2 years ago during a clutch change, the (!) was on and I had to get a new abs/wheel sensor installed and get the ecu reset.
Click to expand...
Unfortunatly access to a proper diag reader could be more complicated. I just want to cover what I can before going into anything more technical but it seem that it's going to have to go to the sole local dealer.
Its a pain in the butt cause there have been so many variables in the equation from blown fuses to a probable bust/burnt out ABS pump/module.
 
a bust vsa modulator is going to hurt your pocket, lets hope its not that.

i think its unlikely to be broken but tbh you need to get it to a garage who has a diag tool, they can check codes and clear as necessary.

I am ***uming your pads and wheel sensors, brake fluid etc are good.


you wont be able to clear codes yourself so a garage is only way to go.

in the mean time check all the fuses, under the wheel and under the bonnet.
 
toffee_pie said:
a bust vsa modulator is going to hurt your pocket, lets hope its not that.

i think its unlikely to be broken but tbh you need to get it to a garage who has a diag tool, they can check codes and clear as necessary.

I am ***uming your pads and wheel sensors, brake fluid etc are good.


you wont be able to clear codes yourself so a garage is only way to go.

in the mean time check all the fuses, under the wheel and under the bonnet.
Click to expand...
Yes, I've checked my front pads and they seem ok, the rear are a bit thin but they still look safe. The fluid is half way in the resevoir and I've checked under dash fuses 6 and 7 and under bonet fuses 4,13, 17, 18 and a few other random ones.
What comes to mind is that I've either bust the modulator when I mis-wired the battery or cement dust from the works around my car have clogged the sensors.
Apart from maybe replacing the rear pads I dont know what to do, failing that I'll have to take it to the local dealer.
 
I would never ***ume that just because the outer pads look OK through the wheel spokes the inner pads will be alright.

As Eric says, an ordinary OBD2 reader will not access VSA/ABS fault codes. A more advanced reader will be required (e.g. a Honda Diagnostic System or, more commonly in garages, a Snap-On machine with the correct Honda key). However, there is a method for reading Honda fault codes by shorting out OBD2 port pins using a paperclip... do a search on the word 'paperclip' (and selecting forums) and look for a thread named 'Fault codes trick'. I can't vouch for this method on Accords (nor if it will read all ABS codes), but I did this several times on my previous Vauxhall quite successfully. Worth a try, I think, but be careful exactly where you stick the paperclip!
 
Oooooh, I'd rather not venture into the paper clip world lol.

I do need to take wheels off and have a good look.
Another thing has come to mind, the battery is the original one which came with the car and has drained a few times already.
I've read somewhere that the lights come on when there is a low voltage coming from the battery. Is this only for other hondas? Although if the alternator is ok it should give a correct battery output though, what do you guys think?
I'll need to get a multimeter.
 
While you're having a proper look at the brake pads, give the ABS wheel sensors a wipe... I've heard people claim that a build up of crud can cause fault issues.

A weak battery may cause system errors to be generated as the terminal voltage will dip excessively during the heavy current draw whilst cranking. After being left off overnight the terminal voltage should still be over 12.5v if it's a good battery. The performance of the alternator is also important, so check that the terminal voltage is around 14.4V at a fast idle even with all lights, radio, HRW and blower fan all turned on fully. But a good alternator will not make up for a knackered battery.
 
Thanks for the tips. It will have to be next week then as I'm having a vasectomy in a few hours time lol. :(
 
Ok, I checked my battery this morning, it had been parked since 5 yesterday and I got 12.3v with the engine off and 14.6v when I started the engine. What I have noticed is that it starts but is a bit hesitant, if you know what I mean.
Could the voltage be ok but the charge be weak? Youll have to forgive my ignorance as I'm not too eleccy educated :blush:
 
I'm going to be a pain now. Another thing I've noticed is that my light dim and flicker when cranking but the battery/alt seem fine. Is it normal as I dont recall that happening before?
 
What I havnt mentioned is that the ABS, VCS and brake light come on soild as soon as I turn the key.
 
Weren't you going to get the fault codes read? It's probably the only way to really know what the problem is.
 
I want to have a good look underneath before I go to the stealer. I'm wondering if any of the other symptoms relate to other faults.
I've also read that the earthing bond sometimes fails.
I've still yet to recover lol.
 
Ok, I'll revive this thread lol.
I thought I could live without ABS and traction control but my MOT guy thinks otherwise so I bit the bullet and took the car to be scanned. The problem lies with the pump relay so a new pump and module is needed. I bought one from ebay which apparently was suitable for my car but when I receive it everything is ok except for the 2 feed pipes which are slightly bigger in diameter with bigger fittings.
So now my issue is, I'm sure I can find a fitting reducer but would the calibration be affected by the diferent working pressures by a diferent diameter pipe?
If not I'll have to send it back and look for another one.
 
You need the right pump for the car and it then needs to be calibrated with a Honda system.

I can do this as part of a diagnostic service i offer
 
I'd be very interested in you having a look once over my car but that would be a bit hard unless you came over to Gibraltar on holidays lol.
I have a second hand pump from a scrappie would it still need to be calibrated?
 
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