Other thing I want to ask, or maybe it's late to ask, as far as I see, mechanic didn't use any special cleaner for that. I saw him using WD40 in his hand. I think this is all he used. Do u think he might damage the Throttle Body?
Rattling / Grinding noise and low idle
- Thread starter Ven
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freddofrog
won 16.4k on Euro lottery :)
not sure really, I don't use WD40 very much, it's good for removing stickers from glass though 
Jon_G
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Not sure if this version has a MAF or not (is it a 2.0 or a 2.4?) but this surging, erratic idle sounds to me like either an air leak on the intake side or the accelerator pedal position sensor (only on a 2.4, I believe?).
It is 2.0 petrol K20Z2 engine.Jon_G said:
Actually what I noticed yesterday about accelerator pedal is, look like there is no direct control of engine. When engine is on idle, I pressed the pedal by hand to understand better, and small touch is either respond on engine a lot or nothing. I read somewhere on internet there are multiple sensors on pedal in case of them is fails.
I will check this further.
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Jon_G
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On my diesel (and the 2.4, I believe) the accelerator pedal only connects to a box that contains a sensor (actually a pair of electrical potentiometers) to inform the ECU of the pedal position... this sensor is a not uncommon problem area. But I thought the 2.0 had a more conventional mechanical connection to a throttle butterfly?
But if your's is 'drive by wire' then the sensor should be considered to be a possible cause of your idle problem.
But if your's is 'drive by wire' then the sensor should be considered to be a possible cause of your idle problem.
freddofrog
won 16.4k on Euro lottery :)
Cl7 pre-facelift is cable throttle-body
cl7 post-facelift is drive-by-wire
cl7 post-facelift is drive-by-wire
I have just checked the engine. Accelerator pedal is just a simple mechanism, connected by a metal wire to a black box in the engine bay, where I see an electric socket also connected to the same box. Which means sensor is inside that box.Jon_G said:
I just bought a carburetor cleaner. Took out the plastic cover on engine and sprayed while engine is on idle.
Nothing changed, no single sign. Engine rpm stays same at 500rpm.
But what I also did, just for curiosity, I removed the main air intake hose, I mean just separated from the air filter box, and sprayed inside while engine is on idle. I was expecting to rev up, but engine stopped. Is that normal?
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Jon_G
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Spraying a hydro-carbon 'fuel' into the engine like that would have caused the air-to-fuel ratio to plummet, probably below a viable level (according to the outcome). But I do say that without knowing what the carb cleaner actually contains.
Best to use switch cleaner on the APP sensor, as it's lubricating and probably a far more gentle solvent. WD40 would be OK, but you really need to get it inside the box and onto the wiping contacts within. Cleaning rarely seems to fix a failing APP sensor though...
Any chance there's an air leak on the intake side after the throttle body?
Best to use switch cleaner on the APP sensor, as it's lubricating and probably a far more gentle solvent. WD40 would be OK, but you really need to get it inside the box and onto the wiping contacts within. Cleaning rarely seems to fix a failing APP sensor though...
Any chance there's an air leak on the intake side after the throttle body?
I did try everywhere after the throttle body with the spray.Jon_G said:
There was no sign of any change.
Actually that was the reason I sprayed directly into intake hose to see engine reaction. So at least I was expecting to see a quick response on RPM.
As I didn't see it, in fact engine stopped, now I am not quite sure if I could find any air leak like this. I still couldn't eliminate this air leak problem..
In the parallel thread by Cheddars regarding a similar problem the cause turned out to be a faulty spark plug lead, which lead to plug fouling.
So pull out your plugs and have a look if one looks different. If you see one that is a different colour or has residual carbon, check the resistance in that lead, and check for damage / corrosion.
So pull out your plugs and have a look if one looks different. If you see one that is a different colour or has residual carbon, check the resistance in that lead, and check for damage / corrosion.