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Soundproofing - Many guides inside

I've used the efficientgrips before on the Yaris, it pretty much halved the noise and made the wet performance unbelievable. I'm hoping for the same on the Accord but I've just posted a thread about my tyres being chewed up at the front for some reason...
 
Mine has them fitted. Shoulders seem to wear quickly on the front at standard tyre pressures. Grip is average as is noise.
 
Further update; I think I've "solved" rear road noise - in addition to thinboys application of thinsulate directly to the arch liners. I applied silent coat extra over the OEM deadening as it was very hard in places indicating that its coming towards the end of its useful life (my accord is over 8 years old) the result is not only has high frequency roar gone as a result of the thinsulate, but low frequency "rumble" too, I put this down to some surfaces not being treated at all - the walls either side of the boot and the age of the factory damping.

This is the stuff I've used; http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/350922808226?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Here is where I applied it (yellow arrows, on the bare metal/existing damping):
dURlYFI.jpg


In hindsight I should have taken pictures but I was on a roll :) basically cut it up and add it directly onto the metal, making sure to press it down firmly against the contours - we've all seen dynamat and similar before!

I believe accords are nice and quiet when new but eventually the existing materials dry up or deteriorate and it gets progressively worse, which is why I decided to try silent coat.

Onto my next discovery - my (and possibly other) accords are missing plugs directly behind the front wheel arches. Picture is from my accord;


According to the parts diagram there should be two identical plugs side by side, they lead into a void between the front wheel arch (you can just see my front tyre there) and the front bulkhead, I've ordered some plugs to see if this will make things quieter.
 
I've used only one pack so far - I have overlaid all the existing factory deadening on the arches plus a few extras and I still have 2 sheets left from a pack of 5 which I'm either going to put in the front footwells or on the inside of the rear wheel arches. I think one should be enough but the silent coat extra is so good you could get away with less I think.

I applied it with the principle of minimizing vibration coming from the suspension + wheels themselves - so on the wheel arch metal, near the tops of the strut towers etc. Behind any trim so you can't tell its there. I will try and get some time to take proper pictures, I've got really good at removing the inner trim these days :D
 
B) Good write-ups, guys!! To be honest, can't be bothered. Far too involved and really Honda should have looked into the road/wind noise issue issue..should they not?

The Honda's a lovely car and I just accept the noise...turn the hifi up!lol! Having said that, it's not built to the same level as Jag, Volvo or Subaru, my previous cars. Even SAAB 9-5..(errr Vauxhall Vectra)!! Excellent noise suppresion.

Good work and sure there's many who'll follow your example.

Cheers,

Jon
 
jonhond said:
B) Good write-ups, guys!! To be honest, can't be bothered. Far too involved and really Honda should have looked into the road/wind noise issue issue..should they not?

The Honda's a lovely car and I just accept the noise...turn the hifi up!lol! Having said that, it's not built to the same level as Jag, Volvo or Subaru, my previous cars. Even SAAB 9-5..(errr Vauxhall Vectra)!! Excellent noise suppresion.

Good work and sure there's many who'll follow your example.

Cheers,

Jon
Click to expand...
Spot on really. When considering this car I was comparing against a Volvo S40, the Volvo was by far the quietest but it felt heavy and slow which is why I went for the Accord. I've done all this because I want to keep it a while and I hope I can fix some of its issues along the way :)

I've found that anything from Japan is poorly tuned for road noise, Toyotas being the worst at it and funny you should mention SAAB/Vauxhall as the Vectra was considered the quietest car of its era/class.

I've still got some ideas to try out but I've just plugged the missing grommets in so will see how that goes!
 
Good stuff, matey. Yes, it is disappointing....but that's the only thing!!

The V70 D5 i had was incredibly nose-heavy!! Understeer is your friend!lol! The SAAB excellent apart from the seats..and yes, there's still turbo lag!!! 06 year too!

Both Sub's I had were very good. Legacy Outback best. Cruiser with a 3.0 flat 6!!

Surprisingly the Jag was an X-Type 3.0 auto with sports seats. Best seats by far, very quiet. Similar paint to Honda :( ! Brilliant ride but carried Mondy credentials! Shame. J gate outdated and heavy on the juice 20-25 mpg never better.

For all that, I'm quite happy to have the jap tech wizardry and forgo the quiet interior...though, it can be done..at a price..Lexus LS!!

Jon
 
Just some more updates; I've managed to kill more noise and will put some more guides up soon.

These involve;

Silent coat extra (4mm) in the front footwells + rear
Stuffing the A-Pillar bases with thinsulate
Using a *lot* more insulation in the front wheel arches
 
I haven't even got round to putting the thinsulate in the rear arches yet, and here you are adding more items to the list!
 
Ha, it's because I'm either writing a book or doing a load of video tutorials around this sort of thing for any car; So the accord is my mule car to trial new things.
 
I am doing a full install on my car atm, and been using a combination of 4mm Silent Coat, 2mm Silent Coat,
and some 9mm thick CCF sheets to deaden panels and cut down on unwanted noise.... a lot of smaller gaps
in the rear of the roof were layered up, and once everything was level, then a full coat was applied as the sunroof
is quite well reinforced with cross members etc.

Front seats out first
2-3.jpg

1-3.jpg


then rears etc
3-1.jpg


then headlining
5.jpg

Just a quick note, the rear deck cover is in two parts, a hard plastic front section and a carpet covered cardboard
rear section, there are silver screws around each 6x9 hole, and these hold the two parts together. It took ages to
get the rear shelf off as the brake light hits the rears screen and it hasn't got enough clearance to pull off to get out
of the way etc. Separating the shelf made it much easier going back in, and pretty surer it would have taken us a
fraction of the time to remove it. Once the screws are out, pull up the front edge of the carpeted section and get
that out the way would probably be the easiest for removal.


filling voids
8.jpg


Rear deck coated above and below
9.jpg


more roof deadening
10.jpg


Getting dark so needed some light
12.jpg



Don't forget the front too!!!
The cage that houses the Courtesy lights and sunroof controls & alarm sensors needs double sided sticky
foam tape between it and the roof, otherwise with the amount of bass going thru the car would make it rattle
really badly, and I didn't fancy taking the roof lining out again either to fix it later!!
11.jpg


I hope these pics will help anyone attempting this, but obviously my car is being soundproofed for an ICE install, not just general soundproofing. I have much more to do including the boot, bootlid and the doors yet, will take a fair while longer than guesstimated, but the job is being done pretty thoroughly, so slow & steadfast will get the best results......
 
Wow, impressive! I tend to approach things as anti-noise rather than audio installs; much nicer to my fingers and limited time :D

Is this a "SQ install" then as they call it on talk audio?
 
SQ with a large helping of very HQ bass. All speakers will be behind the factory grills, except the rear 6x9's
which have gone completely to be used as Bass ports. I am also going to be making a hole in the rear seat
behind the armrest and covering that with mesh to allowfurther bass ingress into the cabin. The only thing in
the rear 6x9 hole now is the relocated reverse buzzer.
 
Blimey! This is maaad!
 
The improvement in sound will be huge, the roof alone makes a very different sound if you tap it no,
and the rear shelf had masses of rattles, not any more tho. The roof has between 8mm to 16mm
of Silent coat son it and the rear shelf has at least 8mm on top and again on the bottom with 12mm
on the front leading edge (another area that was very tinny....
 
Like a boss! Same level as i did with my 2003 EP civic. Don't have the balls to try it on the Accord :blush:
 
Quick question, might be a bit silly one, but I have a nearly full roll of those grey dial laminate underlay, and the purpose of those is dampen sound and insulate, would it be silly to try those for sound deading in a car? Thinking of putting thhem in the boot, as I have some silentcoats to be put on the doors.
 
Wow! That's some impressive work. You'll have to start a new thread about your install. I'd be interested to know what your putting in considering the amount of time you've taken to sound proof the car.

How long did it take to strip and stick all that down?
 
exec said:
Quick question, might be a bit silly one, but I have a nearly full roll of those grey dial laminate underlay, and the purpose of those is dampen sound and insulate, would it be silly to try those for sound deading in a car? Thinking of putting thhem in the boot, as I have some silentcoats to be put on the doors.
Click to expand...
It will all help, but dampening the panel helps a heck of a lot with the silent coat, then the stuff you mention in between the silent coat and the carpet or boot lining etc would be the way to go generally.
 
The underlay will absorb sound. But the magic in panel deadening comes from the constraining layer in the silent coat (the shiny bit) every little helps.

What would you say to video based guides for the other things I mentioned? Can put a lot more detail into them and you see more of the process behind it all.
 
coderbyday said:
Just some more updates; I've managed to kill more noise and will put some more guides up soon.

These involve;

Silent coat extra (4mm) in the front footwells + rear
Stuffing the A-Pillar bases with thinsulate
Using a *lot* more insulation in the front wheel arches
Click to expand...
Hi,

I found your first guides very helpfull.
The doors and the back of my CN2 are already deadened, now I'm waiting for your new guides to go on. :D
 
I'm looking to do the rear on mine now but the company in post 2 don't seem to stock anything anymore.

Does someone have a link to the best stuff to use?
 
Thanks, will the stuff stick ok with something like carpet adhesive? Just wondering if its really worth paying an extra £10 for the self adhesive one.
 
I'd imagine so. Closed cell isn't very porous so anything that sticks plastic to plastic. Those cheap £5 spray glues work well too I think; failing that find butyl rope as it's permanently sticky.
 
Ah they're fundamentally different, ideally both!

The silent coat 2mm will resist the panel resonating, so where you knock a panel and it rings a bit is where it will be effective, good for low-frequency rumble that is transmitted through the suspension points on the car. The foam absorbs sound like tyre roar which penetrates through the sheet metal.

Place the silent coat directly onto the metal itself, preferably behind the trim as then its nice and invisible. The foam can then be placed on top of it, or on the inside of the trim itself.

If I were to choose one over the other, the foam actually. The accord transmits very little noise through the panels itself as you're isolated by at least 3 bushings; Wheel (BUSHING) Suspension Link (BUSHING) Subframe (BUSHING) Body.

The weakspot in the rear of the accord is the wheel arch housing itself, as there's an gap into the cabin with nothing in the way, so I would place it where the side bolsters are in the rear seats, or better yet take the arch protectors off and inside there as another member did with self-adhesive thinsulate.

This is the gap, if you put your hand in (carefully) you can basically touch the outermost layer which is 0.2mm thick and then its just wheel + road;
yOYwzmH.jpg


Another weak spot is the underside of the parcel shelf, its wafer thin metal + some isolating strips of foam, everything that is noisy in the boot gets through that layer, so adding/sealing that bit up would be another win. On BMW's its covered by a huge layer of soundproofing, even the speakers live inside soundproof "bubbles".
 
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