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Turbo CDTI issues

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Sword906

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Location
Nottingham
Car
Honda Accord
hi everyone,

I have a 2004 CDTI Accord and had a problem a week ago with a turbo sounding like a siren. Th turbo packed up after a mile of making the noise.

I had no issues with the vehicle other than the exhaust manifold replaced under 125k warranty.

The car has covered 220k miles, so had to make decision to spend money on it or leave it as a lost cause.

I had the turbo (reconditioned), oil feed pipe, oil and filter replaced.

Now the vehicle will not boost fully and struggles to get near 2,500 revs. There is hardly any acceleration, almost like the airflow meter has been removed(tested no issues).

The mechanic had it on a computer ( basic equipment) and it shows no faults.He seems to at a lost and has recommended taking it to the dealer or a specialist with diagnostic equipment, so I'm really peeved off after paying out quiet a bit of money.


Anyone with any useful advice would be greatful.

Thanks Guys
 
Sounds like a jammed turbo actuator.
 
Any lights on the dash, It's in limp mode. First thing would be to do a full diagnostic on a HDS from dealers.
 
Check the turbo hoses, whistling is usually due to a split hose especially if you have no logged error codes
 
hi All

Thanks for all your suggestions

1 Genuine fuel filter changed 3k ago
2. 0w30 fully synthetic used always and changed at12k
3.Been to fuel injection specialist and he has examined ECU. No fault codes shown using HD equipment.He swapped with new MAF, MAP and Turbo valve. no difference at all. the EML only came on when he started to remove plugs from the MAF for example.

He is pointing to mechanical failure and is believes that the EGR should be replaced.

I might get my mechanic to clean it in the first instance.

what are your thoughts
 
At 220k miles it could well be the EGR valve but i'm interested to know how your mechanic has diagnosed the EGR? if he has Honda diagnostic equipment he should be able to run a functional test on the EGR.
 
Today, the mechanic took the EGR off and found that the valve was always partially open. The EGR was in really good condition. This was causing some of the starting issues when the turbo was renewed. Now it is difficult to start and won't rev up 2,500. The air flow is around 300 to 400 but should be over 1000.

1. Do I blank it off?
2. EGR software delete.ow much would the cost be
3. Buy a second hand one?

Mine has already been remapped 120k miles ago.

Thanks
 
Sword said:
Today, the mechanic took the EGR off and found that the valve was always partially open. The EGR was in really good condition. This was causing some of the starting issues when the turbo was renewed. Now it is difficult to start and won't rev up 2,500. The air flow is around 300 to 400 but should be over 1000.

1. Do I blank it off?
2. EGR software delete.ow much would the cost be
3. Buy a second hand one?

Mine has already been remapped 120k miles ago.

Thanks
Click to expand...
But surely if the EGR valve is stuck 'always partially open', then it doesn't sound like it's in 'really good condition'! Did the mechanic try to free it off? Was it still stuck partially open afterwards? Can you see the actuator moving in and out?

The figures for air flow sound more like boost figures (MAP) rather than airflow (MAF).

Is the engine management warning light on? This would explain the revs being limited (e.g. 'limp home' mode)

You can't simply block off the EGR system - the ECU should realise that this has been done and will bring up the management warning light (but this might depend upon the actual map you have loaded and what it's trying to do). Until the recent problems, was the car working well?

If you don't know anything about the map you have loaded, then you might be better off reverting it to stock. It's going to be difficult for anyone to properly ****yse your engine parameters without knowing how the map has modified them.

Not many remaps actally do fully delete the operation of the EGR valve, so it will need to be working.
 
as stated above . you cant just block the EGR off.

if its stuck open partially, then you need a new or used one as to map out the EGR it has to be working in the first place.

I would look for a 2nd hand or refurbished part as they are not cheap from honda new!
 
Thanks guys.

No the engine management has never shown a fault until the EGR was unplugged. The light went on but came off when plugged in.

he did try to free it off but would not close.

The car did not go into limp mode. The diesel specialist previously tested this on HD equipment and it still wouldn't rev past 2,500 revs


Ordered a second hand one off a low mileage car, so hoping this will sort things out.

DO you think the EGR fault caused the turbo to fail?

I've owned the car for 7 yrs( done 125k), never let me down in that time and it is frustrating but feel I'm getting nearer the end.

. All this trouble started when I bought a weekend car, 330d E92 sport. The Accord got jealous
 
Gents,

EGR valve changed and starting issues resolved.

The mechanic still cannot workout why the revs are not rising above 2500. The computer is still not showing any faults either.

Please bear in mind, this is the third experienced mechanic looking at this vehicle.He did, however, notice that the rubber connecter (from air filter housing) to the turbo pipe was damaged and was restricting the air going into the turbo.

I've ordered Another from Honda (£40)

If this fails, anybody have any ideas?
 
MAF sensor on your TIP pipe.. just after the air filter....

if this malfunctions it wont rev past 2500rpm ;) and it will rev up slower than usual too.
 
Hi,

Both Cats removed and no difference at all

As a long shot, we had a spare EGR valve and changed that but still no difference.

The symptoms are sometimes it will start straight away and other times shake great deal when starting . Then on the third occasion it will start.

again sometimes it will rev to 3k, then 4k and then won't go above 2.5k.

I feel the turbo kick in when it revs above 2.5k and really boosts after 3k

I can't think of doing anything else
 
It could really be anything, and trying to diagnose it this way is pretty pointless. It needs to go on a proper Honda diagnostic, and everything from boost to injectors needs to be tested. At 200k miles I wouldn't be surprised if your injectors are now past it.
 
Just an update

It turns out the people who fitted the reconditioned turbo did not follow the fitting instructions.

It looks like they used sealant that melted almost straightaway and started to block the return feedpipe. This started to starve the turbo of oil almost straightaway.

Even they were not involved in the fitting, the turbo reconditioners will replace it under warranty, which the turbo specialists didn't have to do. A big thank you to Precision Turbos in Birmingham. The guy is a true gent.

Fingers crossed, The car should be up and running after the weekend.
 
Glad you got to the bottom of it. If you had plugged the car into a HDS unit, it would have been able to tell you that the turbo is out of range.
 
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