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front brake caliper piston sticking

freddofrog

freddofrog

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Got a piston on the front brake caliper that does not want to go back far enough to fit new pads.

G-clamp onto the old pad will not push it back.

I've thought of spraying WD40 under the rubber boot but I don't think this is a good idea.

What's the best thing to get in there to help it go back ??
 
Brian don't use WD40 on rubber as this will deteriorate it.
You will be better of using a good kind of grease expecely for the job.
 
I'm sure the front brakes are not wind back and are just push back.
 
brett said:
I'm sure the front brakes are not wind back and are just push back.
Click to expand...
Yes the fronts are only push back on all 7th gen Accords (and probably 8th gen). Tourer rears are same.

Only Saloon rears are wind-back.


and ....the piston on the other side pushed back very easily, the one on the side in question is sticking after about half way
 
Red Rubber Grease... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18g-Castrol-Red-Rubber-Grease-Brake-Caliper-Fluid-Handy-MINI-TIN-/130679593752?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1e6d1c5b18

Or, at a push, Molykote... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Molykote-Dow-Corning-Silicone-55-O-Ring-Grease-EXPIRY-JAN-2017-SPECIAL-/251226145377?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a7e3ec261
 
true, but it would probably get it back in though, they only wind if you line the metal tabs on the tool up with recesses on the piston, otherwise they just push
 
Jon_G said:
Red Rubber Grease... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/18g-Castrol-Red-Rubber-Grease-Brake-Caliper-Fluid-Handy-MINI-TIN-/130679593752?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item1e6d1c5b18

Or, at a push, Molykote... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Molykote-Dow-Corning-Silicone-55-O-Ring-Grease-EXPIRY-JAN-2017-SPECIAL-/251226145377?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item3a7e3ec261
Click to expand...
thanks Jon, need to finish it tomorrow, so looks like I'll have to get some from Halfords :(


barneyrubble said:
true, but it would probably get it back in though, they only wind if you line the metal tabs on the tool up with recesses on the piston, otherwise they just push
Click to expand...
same as a G-clamp then ;)
 
Interesting indeed. Ideally you need to work out why the caliper is not retracting fully. Are you sure the fault does not lie with the pads, meaning they are the wrong thickness?
 
OEM discs and pads from HH ;)

Done one side completely, gor the disc off other side, but piston just will not go back all the way into the caliper.

I've got pipe grips, not tried to rotate the piston yet, thought I'd get some advice on lubricant under the rubber boot.

I've put a big piece of wood in the caliper and put my foot on the brakes and used the G-clamp to push it back again, etc, etc, but it only moves back and forward from half way.

btw before anyone asks, thickness of piece of wood = thickness of disc + both old pads :lol:
 
On lubricating the piston, you should use brake fluid only. Most types of grease are oil based products and like WD40 they will react with the rubber seals.

When pushing the piston back, have you taken the cap off the brake fluid reservoir? Also try opening the bleed nipple when pushing back.

If that doesn't work, you've most likely got a bad piston, twisted seal or debris in the cylinder, either way, it's a piston out job.
 
jmcg said:
On lubricating the piston, you should use brake fluid only. Most types of grease are oil based products and like WD40 they will react with the rubber seals.

When pushing the piston back, have you taken the cap off the brake fluid reservoir? Also try opening the bleed nipple when pushing back.

If that doesn't work, you've most likely got a bad piston, twisted seal or debris in the cylinder, either way, it's a piston out job.
Click to expand...
Yes never use ordinary greases or WD40. But Red Rubber Grease is specifically for use on hydraulic brake rubber components... http://www.redrubbergrease.com/

I'm also worried that Brian needs to take the piston out to clean out debris of remove a ridge of some sort.
 
I would try a little clean brake fluid and a few twists of the piston to see if it frees up. If not then it's time to take the piston out because there may be a problem with the seal.
 
I tried opening the bleed nipple, that won't turn and I don't want to blugger up the head.
And the piston won't turn either.
So I'm going to put back the old disc and pads and look for a caliper on ebay to recondition that and fit.

It's annoying that a car that was first registered just over 8 years ago has a seized caliper on the front brakes. Same happened with the rear. I'm not impressed with the cheese that these parts are made of, looks just like an old Citroen on the quality of parts in there.
 
Just a thought Brian why not try and source a set of 2nd hand ATR calipers as this is a great mod with twin piston.You can get a set for about £120 if you shop around.
Hear you go a nice link

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/39-review-diy-accord-type-r-caliper-upgrade/
 
^ Not a bad idea, not seen any on ebay, only 2.2 diesel ones (hence my other thread). Or I might take mine apart and do a recon instead.
 
blue guru (rip!) had a big brake kit, was in his accord and the stopping power was crazy...

but not having spare boxers in the glove box is such a good idea. :p
 
Its a good ideal if you can find some but they are hard to get hold of.
If you recon yours i would do both tbo
 
yeah I might do that.

I've been looking at all the service invoices that I've had done, each summer, since a 23k in summer 2006.

In August 2007 31k miles ...brake fluid (DOT4) ...I presume that was a change because nothing else about brakes on the invoice

In Sepetember 2010 75k miles ...brake fluid (DOT4) ...I presume that was a change because nothing else about brakes on the invoice

Car is now 92k miles and was due a major service last summer but I couldn't see the point of paying them ~£400 to do an oil change, air filter, pollen filters, and VC check, when I can do the whole lot for £100 myself. And they didn't mention brake fluid change when I asked what was on the service.

If a 6 months' delay in changing brake fluid has caused a caliper to seize, then so be it, not sure I can comprehend that though.
 
Tbh Brian I wouldn't have thought 6 months overdue on the brake fluid would have caused the problem.
Just give the callipers a good over hall and I think this will sort it out.
 
freddofrog said:
If a 6 months' delay in changing brake fluid has caused a caliper to seize, then so be it, not sure I can comprehend that though.
Click to expand...
That seems unlikely... apparently I've got the same front brakes as you and I've not changed the brake fluid since I bought my car in May 2008. In any case, I would expect moisture to be absorbed at the 'virtually open' master cylinder and cause corrosion problems there first.
 
must be the cheese that Honda's suppliers use to make the caliper pistons ...maybe mine are made of horsemeat :lol:
 
have you noticed your brakes iffy lately?

regarding mine, missing service history for 30/40k miles, and at the honda free service in december they said my brake fluid had low boiling point, i got it done then with dot 5 fluid.

i did not notice any adverse reacting from my brakes, but the front pads are at 30%, so considering my fluid is probably thousands of miles over due dont think it was a reason for your caliper to become stuck.
 
I've known that caliper was seized since December, they managed to free is a bit on the MOT ....it passed the brake tester fine with no grabbing, but he felt the wheel was difficult to turn up on the ramps, so we removed the wheel and the caliper and he managed to work the piston back (not sure how far because I was working the brake pedal). Now it won't go back more than half way.

But even before December, say back in Sepetember, I'd noticed a vibration sometimes after heavy braking, that would clear after a few miles, so I thought that was the problem anyway. The wear on the pads was only a couple of mm more than the other side, so I knew it wasn't drastic.

Brake fluid in the reservoir looks fine btw.

I've got access to another car, so I think these calipers are coming off.

Just wondering what to put on the "banjo" joint to stop it all coming out ???
 
well then its hardly surprising to you that they are back siezed again.

not the end of the world, just a caliper..
 
toffee_pie said:
well then its hardly surprising to you that they are back siezed again.
Click to expand...
not "they" ... it
not "back seized" ....it's a job I've been postponing


toffee_pie said:
not the end of the world, just a caliper..
Click to expand...
new Honda caliper = £450 ...only diesel calipers on ebay (see other thread) ....will cost you an arm and a leg Eric because you don't do DIY
 
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