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2 Day Battery Drain on Honda Accord 2007 mk7 2.2CDTI

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botty67

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Derry
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Honda Accord 2006
Hi,

New to this site so I apologize if I have posted in wrong category or out of turn. Ill keep it really simple. I have tested each fuse both under the bonnet and below the steering wheel. I have replaced my battery 3 times and had the car itself in the auto electrics garage 3 times, he eventually washed his hands of it.

Below is the latest readings I got. 0.19 and 0.45 is the only readings I received back. Pen-written beside each fuse. I got no readings from the fuses below the bonnet.

Thanks in advance.
Dan


SCN_0001.jpg
 
6 10A WHT/BLU Driver's door courtesy light, Front passenger's door courtesy light, Individual map lights, Driver's vanity mirror light, Passenger's vanity mirror light, Ceiling light (With sunroof), Audio unit (+
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, Right cargo area light, Left cargo area light, Power tailgate inner switch light
7 10A WHT/RED Combination switch control unit, Gauge control module, Immobilizer control unit-receiver, Immoes control unit, Navigation display unit, Navigation unit, Power tailgate control unit, Ultra sonic sensor, Alarm control silen, Multiplex integrated control unit.

Just before I start checking all these.. Would 0.45 and 0.19 drain a battery in 2days??

Thanks again
Dan

 
Its more than likely the HFT Bluetooth module that has failed. Very common issue on the facelift Accord.
Once they fail they will draw large amounts of current that can flatten a battery in a 2 to 3 days.

Disconnect it the Bluetooth module and try monitor it. Pretty sure that's your problem.

Have a read here too
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/13349-flat-battery/?hl=bluetooth#entry149017

Bluetooth module is located under the central vent section above the stereo system
 
Alex. Top man!! Ive disconnected it and Ill let you know in a few days. I had everything pulled apart thinking that the sat nav at fault when you emailed and the hft box was a simple disconnect for now so much happier to try that!!

I was on the verge of just selling on the car at a cut price so really, thanks for helping me out for now.

Dan
 
Your welcome mate.
I haven't experienced it myself but I have read many threads about it.
My HFT seems to be working ok at the moment although I use the accord everyday it doesn't stand unused very often

Pretty sure its 99.9% your problem. if that is your problem you might need to change the battery if it has been drained several times
 
How's it going? I pulled fuse 32 to disconnect stereo and I hope the hft on mine last Tuesday and the car was dead by Thursday.
Maybe as when I jump started the car i only drove 4 miles?

Trying to get car started today, I bought a booster from Eurocarparts but that won't start the bugger.
 
SCOTTIECTR - Which one did you buy? What was the amperage rating of the booster pack? You need quite a hefty one to jump the diesel accord as the glow plugs suck all the power. I ***ume you charged the booster over night prior to use?

+1 , botty67: any updates
 
Lads,

Sorry I never got back with any updates but I just wanted to let the car sit for more than 5 days before I started claiming that everything was fine. So now I am on day 5 and for the first time I can now say that everything is working as it should. The car started first day, its never done this before so the bluetooth module was definitely at fault. I thank everybody that took their time to reply to me and help me out when I had no idea what could be wrong.

Its no biggie but can the module be refurbished?? I don't use the bluetooth to be honest but I don't like knowing theres something in my car that isn't doing its job.. Im a weirdo like that.. New one off eBay for £200 is just too far..

SCOTTIECTR, I bought a few battery booster packs but when these cars are dead, they are dead.. Didnt seem to matter how expensive the packs are, never done the trick.

Thanks
Dan
 
Glad the issue is sorted.
Not sure on the Bluetooth module. They are quite pricey even second hand and from breakers yard as you have mentioned and even that wont guarantee it will be working 100%
If it were me I would leave it and perhaps install an external parrot module or something
Not sure if the module can be repaired

I think you need around 20AH (amp hour) battery booster power to start the accord from dead.
Like this one
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/190779421557?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

This booster pack will start anything
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/151271356656?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649
 
Hi everybody,

So after 3 weeks of perfection the issue came back.. I have no idea what to do now and nothing makes sense anymore..

Can the alternator be at fault?? Can it steal juice when the car is off?? Can it be rogue??

Thanks and not expect anybody to bother with me anymore :)

Dan
 
Sorry to hear this Dan

I ***ume the battery is new?
if the battery already has been drained and flattened a few times it could have damaged it and wont retain a good charge anymore

To check if the battery is being charged via the alternator get a multimeter, have it set to read volts and measure place the probes across the battery when the car is running. It should read approx. 14 volts which means the battery is being charged. If it doesn't then the alternator could be at fault.

Check the alternator first as that is the easiest thing to do, then if that's ok I would look into getting a new battery.
When you replaced the battery is it a genuine Honda one? Or a correct CCA (cold cranking amps rate) spec one?
Diesel accords need a high spec battery

If the fault still occurs you may have an issue with your alarm causing a high current drain.

Do you have any other aftermarket electrical devices that you know of fitted to the car?

Hope you get to the bottom of it and hope other members can provide other advise too
 
Battery was new.. Last time it went dead the car alarm came on for the first time after a jump start and it hasn't went off since.. I have disconnected fuse 7. Put in a temp battery and asked the shop to take it back under warranty which they are in the process of doing.. Its a high spec one that the auto electrician recommended for the Honda..

I think I need another 2.2 diesel accord to check against for readings. I need to know exactly what voltage the battery should ready when idling and when switched off..
I also need to know what amps are coming out of fuse 6 and 7 on other peoples car..

Nothing is aftermarket, all original. Bluetooth still disconnected. Fuse 7 now removed and no drain in the last 3 days..

Thanks for all your help on this Alex. Your keeping my car from getting torched at this stage :)
Dan
 
Very unusual for it to be fine for a while and then suddenly fail again.
The hft/Bluetooth module is the usual culprit on the accord.
And alternator can fail, they have a diode pack also called a rectifier and when they fail the battery can discharge through the alternator when the ignition is off but the usual indication for that is the battery light staying on with the ignition off.
 
botty67 said:
Battery was new.. Last time it went dead the car alarm came on for the first time after a jump start and it hasn't went off since.. I have disconnected fuse 7. Put in a temp battery and asked the shop to take it back under warranty which they are in the process of doing.. Its a high spec one that the auto electrician recommended for the Honda..
Click to expand...
If the alarm went off then the main car battery was massively drained. There is also a battery in the alarm (AFAIK all alarms have a separate battery ....house, caravan, etc). The alarm will go off when its own battery has drained too i.e. the main battery drains, then the alarm battery drains, then when you get juice back onto the main battery the alarm goes off because its own battery will take several minutes to get enough juice to stabilise.

As previously mentioned, a very deep drain on a car battery does not do it any good. If you have a mains trickle-charger and the car is parked next to the house, try leaving it on trickle-charge over-night and see if that helps to recover the battery (several nights in a row if you can).

You can also get the battery checked, some garages (maybe even somewhere like Halfords ?) have a device that puts a load across the terminals and then measures the fall-off of the volts. From that, and from the ampere-hour rating of the battery, the battery health can be deduced.
 
Hi lads,

Sorry for the delay on the replies.. I just want to get a new battery sorted before I waste your time with misleading battery faults..

The car alarm did clear up with your advise so that you so much for that.

Can anybody tell me what amps come out of fuse 6 and 7 when their working accord is sitting off??

Thanks again for sticking with me on this one.
Dan
 
Just to clean this thread up a little more fuse 6 is now fine, I don't know if this is affect of disconnecting the HFT/Bluetooth module but just checking it against my first recorded draws from the start of my post and its null/0amp leak.

Fuse 7 is the nightmare. Its still drawing 0.19amps when car is off and without the fuse in the car has no issues..

Ofcourse its the most complicated fuse.. 7 10A WHT/RED Combination switch control unit, Gauge control module, Immobilizer control unit-receiver, Immoes control unit, Navigation display unit, Navigation unit, Power tailgate control unit, Ultra sonic sensor, Alarm control silen, Multiplex integrated control unit.

Any easy ones to disconnect to start with??

Thanks everybody for taking the time over my messy problem
Dan
 
Don't know if you have fixed the problem yet but I would keep the multimeter at fuse 7, then disconnect each unit until you see a drop.
 
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