What's new

CTDi Hybrid Turbo Install

Mike_Mac

Members
Messages
185
Reaction score
13
Location
Devon
Car
2.2 CTDi EX
I've been running a Stage 2 EGR Off Map, which I've been very happy with, for quite a while now, but have also been tracking what a few people over on Civinfo have been doing in terms of creating a 'Hybrid' CTDi turbo and looking to achieve power well over 200hp.

This has really progressed in the last year, and quite a few of the Civic lads, who were already producing some interesting power, are heading down this route. I like a challenge and a bit of spannering, so thought I might as well add the first Accord to the list!

The work is still 'in-progress', so I will add to this thread as I go along!

Enabling Upgrades:

Brakes. I already had ATR Front Calipers on, and would advise anyone upping the power to also upgrade their brakes - nuff said... Also have a full set of EBC Yellowstuff ready to go on when current pads are done.

Suspension. Not strictly necessary, but why not! A-Spec kit has been sourced and is ready to go on:



Sports Supension Kit Part #: 08W60-SEF-601 - ordered from HH.

Clutch. My original clutch had quickly been replaced with a Honda uprated 325 clutch, which was coping with the S2 well, but that was about its limit. For a long time the only after-market clutch that could take more power (and torque) was some form of paddle-clutch, which I wasn't keen on in a daily driver.



However, when I re-looked into it CG Motorsport had just started producing a twin-plate clutch that completely replaced the stock system (including the pressure plate and flywheel), thereby removing all the potential failure points. It wasn't long before a parcel arrived on the doorstep:



It was installed along with the FMIC and, although it's heavier than stock, it doesn't take long to adjust to it, is perfectly fine in traffic and is bedding in nicely - there's still a bit of judder in 1st, but that is quickly receding and only surfaces when taking off quickly, or uphill. All in all - quite happy with it and I know it'll take the power, and torque! Since then CG have also released a 666 clutch, which is a bit cheaper and more of a stock feel, which may be the simpler option to go for. I'm happy with this one though!

FMIC. As far as I know only one other Type Accord member has done this (Brodziu) and there isn't any FMIC packages for the Accord. Therefore, I took advantage of a Civinfo Group Buy to get a 180mm Civic FMIC kit, which I planned to adapt to the Accord, fabricating any additional pipe-work needed.


It was installed along with the Twin Plate Clutch and some mesh, as the Accord's front bumper provides NO protection from stones and I don't want my IC going the same way as my A/C Condenser! It took a while, but eventually it was done.





The routing was slightly more 'roundabout' then I had hoped, the bumper needed a fair bit taken out, and the fog lights interrupted the pipes, which meant a lot of trimming and adjusting, plus grinding down the NSF fog light multi-plug so it could be rotated 90 degrees. It does the job and avoided having to seriously hack about with the PAS cooling pipes.

Basically, the only way to bring the left side hose (as you look at it) to where it needs to go was to bring it back on itself across the top of the FMIC and then back down to follow the original routing. A local firm fabricated a lot of the pipework running across the top (where the red line is on the picture below):


So, all in all, it went ok, and the routing should keep the flow rate decent. A 'Twin-Pass' IC would basically have meant a 180 degree switch internally, so i prefer this option TBH. For anyone looking to do the same it's well worth getting as much of the pipe-work fabricated in steel - far fewer leaks to track and fix :D.

All back together and on the drive (quite stealth - which i like!):


Turbo. This has been the major ache of the whole thing (which is entirely down to me!) - I got the turbo from Turbo Clinic in Leeds, who had created the first Civic and CRV CTDi Hybrids based on a GTX2256 race compressor wheel (standard Accord Turbo is 52mm) fitted to an enlarged gas flowed inlet housing. The spec is up to 280bhp, but any more than 230-240 bhp is maxing out the CTDi's injectors, and upgrading the injectors on a Diesel is sodding pricey! After some research I also decided not to get the exhaust vanes 'clipped', as I don't like the sound of it (or the cost!).

There were no Accord Turbo Hybrids available, and I didn't have a spare to send for conversion, so I ordered a Civic one, anticipating that there would be minimal differences. I did subsequently buy a used OEM Accord Turbo, just as a spare, and am sodding glad I did! On arrival the first differences between the Civic Hybrid and the Accord OEM Turbo became obvious (Hybrid Left - OEM Accord Right):




The angle of the outlet from the intake side isn't a problem - the turbo scroll can be rotated easily to the correct angle, but the inlet is totally different. Despite being the same engine the Civic's engine bay requires the turbo to be low-mounted, so there's all sorts of pipe-work to bring the air flow down to it - hence the mount point with the two stud holes. The Accord's turbo is mounted much higher, so the pipe can just go straight on.


I therefore sent off my spare Accord scroll to be bored out to accommodate the larger compressor wheel, and the results can be seen below:



At that point I ordered the Gaskets from HH (which took a while to come through) and then got on with some spannering using the guide here: http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/8624-accord-7th-gen-i-ctdi-removing-turbo-charger/ to remove my Turbo. I may update that guide with more pictures, and I found a few different ways of doing things, but overall it was very useful.

However, when I came to fit the hybrid, it all went wrong! Although the main body of the two look identical, the Accord Turbo's mounting points are about 10 degrees further 'round than the Civic's - meaning that the exhaust downpipe now fouls on one of the cross-members - it took me ages to get the thing in place (lying on my back in the driveway with the car on axle stands and ramps) and then there was the moment of realisation! A quick back-to-back confirmed it with my spare Accord turbo, so things have hit a slight pause.

As it stands now the hybrid is back off to Turbo Clinic, who have been great throughout, and the plan is to Hybridise the rest of the unit I took off my car (using the already machined scroll that's been done) and then I'll be good to go.

<Lesson - just source a spare Accord turbo, or send yours off if you have access to another car!!>

Mapping. The current hybrid setups use a Celtic Stage 3 Map, which is for a very similar hybrid setup, so I'll be using that as a base map - an agent of theirs is just 5mins from my work, so that is also a factor. Once the Turbo's on and mapped I'll see how I get on with it and decide whether to get it custom mapped.

So far then, I just need to get my turbo re-hybridised, install it and map it and I'm done. As soon as it is I intend to get it on an independent Dyno to see what it's putting out and then decide whether to map further. My aim is around 230+ hp, but not at the expense of smoke!! In addition the A-Spec suspension will be going on and then there may well be a bit of track fun... :D
 
Awesome!
 
Great write up Mike.. Keep us posted and good luck!
 
edgeoftime said:
So that's what they look like with the bonnet up! LOL
:D

To be fair mine's had more than its fair share of that until the IMRC issue was sorted, followed by the EGR...

Mind you, considering it's on 156K it may well decide that 200 plus hp isn't to its liking, but I seriously doubt it.

(if it does pop then i'll just need to get a 2.4 and supercharge it... ;))
 
Well I spoke too pessimistically. Paul from Turbo Clinic called today (very nice man!) and after admitting that initially he couldn't spot the difference between the two units (which made me feel a bit less daft! :) ) he said that he could just swap the cartridge from the Hybrid to my Accord turbo housing along with the already machined compressor housing, balance it all up...

And it'll be back with me for Thursday :D

The plan now is to work through the evening on Thu getting it installed and then try and get it mapped Fri/Sat. Just hope my back survives another 2-3 hour stint at strange angles under the car - it's still recovering from the last two sessions now!!
 
Update: Part 1

OK - it's been an interesting few days! the Turbo was due to arrive on Thu, so on Wed I put the Stock Map back on and cleaned, re-oiled and installed a Pipercross filter I'd had sitting around for ages now from the old group-buy (thought I might as well :) ). The Turbo duly arrived on Thu and I managed to get it in without too much fuss (it's getting easier having had to do it a few times now, and the mounting points were a lot easier to line up now that I had the correct Turbo). No photos as I was under the car and fighting to get it done ahead of the rain - which I managed, just!

Once on it drove OK - even on the Stock Map with the hybrid fitted - a result. This means that I can run any of the maps I have on the Hybrid without issues or having to swap back to the old turbo (still like my Premier S2 EGR off!).

Then, on Fri, I drove to Celtic to get the mapping done. On the way I noticed the stock map seemed gutless, but ***umed I was used to various stages of map. Plus I know the EGR valve is not good, so ***umed that it was robbing a bit of power.

On arrival the car went in and I watched the initial runs and the mapped runs on the dyno. Immediately it became apparent that things were not right. The stock map (blue on the plot below) was underpowered and had a massive dip in both power and torque. Again I ***umed it was the EGR, but, when it was blanked off and the Stage 3 installed, it didn't look too much better (Orange Plot below):



As you can see, not too impressive. I spoke with the bloke behind the desk who said the mapper had put it down to Air/Fuel issues, but I had only put a new MAF sensor on a few years back and it had run the previous Stage 2 EGR off map fine... until I had installed the Turbo - so that was where my suspicions were firmly set.

The thought of taking it off again and trying to get to the bottom of it all was NOT filling me with joy - I thought about jacking it all in and moving on to the next project and was generally a bit teed off. Especially compared to what it should have been roughly getting (taken from Celtic's website):



At home, I compared the plot with the one when I had a Celtic Stage 1 installed, which I'd quickly replace with the various EGR off Premier ones). I've used the Celtic Map as a comparator because it is the same company, same gear and same Dyno so the variables are minimised:



As you can see then my stock plot was really good, and the Stage 1 was excellent, with a really smooth curve and good power/torque (although I've always been a bit suspicious of such high figures, but that's just me...).

I then produced a comparative trace comparing both power and torque on:

Original Map - Light Blue
Original Map with Hybrid - Orange
Celtic S1 Map - Grey
Celtic S3 with Hybrid - Yellow
Celtic S3 Example Map - Dark Blue


As you can see, my two Hybrid plots were horrific - significantly outperformed by my old Stage 1 map on the stock Turbo and light-years behind the example Stage 3. Note the lag in all the Hybrid maps from stock, though - you can see it just takes a bit longer to get into its stride and shifts the power quite high into the rev range...

By now I was sure there was something wrong at the Turbo end (although I was bu**ered if I could think what it was), so I decided to go back to Celtic, get a refund, refit the spare turbo and dig into the Hybrid a lot more before deciding what to do next. This was compounded by the car going into limp mode three times before I could get it back to them. Just in case I stripped out the Pipercross filter, as it was the only other change I'd made, but there was no improvement.

So! On Sat I returned to Celtic and showed the actual guy who mapped my car the plot comparisons above. We then had a long chat where he said that during mapping the turbo had barely broken a sweat, so he didn't think that was the issue. Likewise AFR stayed fine, if a bit lean up top, so it wasn't a fuelling or airflow issue per se. He then went into more detail about the Mass Air Flow issues he said he had been fighting on the day and that he thought it was MAF sensor related. I'd done a bit of reading on this the night before, so asked whether the filter oil could have contaminated the MAF? Although Pipercross refute that this is an issue, there is lot of results on it when you look online. He agreed this could be it, and that they don't generally oil PC filters for exactly this reason. I therefore decided to swap out the MAF sensor before committing to getting a refund.

Before I left, Celtic checked the codes for why it had gone into limp mode and found fuel rail pressure had been fluctuating. Basically, Stage 1 and 2 maps generally don't need more fuel (apparently), whereas Stage 3 does - turns out my fuel pump is tired (160K miles...) and therefore straining a bit to deliver what's asked of it now. The map's top fuelling was tweaked to remove this issue, losing a bit of power at the top end, until I get a new fuel pump fitted.

On the way home I bought a used MAF on eBay, which will arrive next week, but before then, decided to clean the existing MAF (had some sensor specific cleaner handy anyway). There was a noticeable surface deposit of 'stuff' on it when I wiped it with a tissue and the cleaner only got some of it off. I then (carefully) rubbed the rest off with tissue and it proved to be a grey oily substance... hmmm! I finished by thoroughly cleaning and wiping the MAF housing and Air Pipes, re-installed it, reset the map and took it out for a drive...

All I can say is that it's definitely putting out a LOT more power and has only got better when I too it out today for a 0-60 test (only way I can think of to try and ***ess where it is just now):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vsT-O0tewPQ

My rough timings from the video suggest roughly 7-8 seconds depending how you take your reference. If there was a bit more in the rev range it'd easily be just over 7 secs, as needing to make a second gear change really scuppers it (serves me right for getting a diesel :D).

While I will get a dyno test done early next week to check, I suspect it's putting out a fair amount more than before - performance on the motorway when on the move is very good and seems to be improving as the ECU re-learns!
smiley.png


More to follow and hopefully a dyno plot...
 
Very interesting reading Mike. Couldn't they have just logged the maf requests on the day and saved everyone all the bother?
 
Hey, I'm just the Monkey here! :D

When I spoke to the bloke on reception first time he mentioned MAF in amongst a few other things it could be and, as said I already had my own suspicions, so didn't really think in that direction. When I spoke to the actual mapper the next day, he was a lot more focused on that, and gave a good explanation of why.

I think if I hadn't physically wiped the MAF down there would still have been issues too - even after the cleaner there was still grey 'stuff' on there.
 
Well it appears I spoke too soon...

Drove in to work today fine, thinking - feels nice and pokey! :D

Booked it in to Alan Jeffreys in Plymouth for a Dyno and waited...



I was hoping for at least over 200 hp - I was wrong! It produced a good power and torque curve, so I think the MAF clean has worked, but topped out at 185hp! Gutted! You can compare it here (blue is the latest run):



Speaking to the dyno bloke, he said that all looked fine except for boost - it was only at around 15-16 psi - should be around 22-23. So, armed with that info I called Celtic. Basically they confirmed the map was set to 22-23 psi, so, in their opinion, it was the MAF (told them this was very unlikely to be the case), or the N75 valve (or the EVR valve in Honda speak). As it controls the level of boost via the Wastegate it is a prime candidate. Therefore, when I got home I swapped it with the other similar valve in the engine bay and went out for a drive.

I wasn't expecting much, because I know what finicky little sods these valves can be, whether it's VSVs, IMRC or EVR they can be proper little sods to troubleshoot as they tend to fail intermittently. TBH, I didn't feel much difference, except for one or two times when it really seemed to 'Go', but then went back to normal. As I am now very suspicious of my butt Dyno I will probably suck it up and replace both EVR valves and see where I go from there, after trying the spare MAF, which should arrive tomorrow, just in case!!



PS - Celtic really don't like MAFs! The bloke on the desk I spoke to initially was adamant that you couldn't clean them - you HAD to get a new one, and seemed Hell-bent on laying my issues on its doorstep! I get what he was saying, sort-of, but I'm sure companies like CRC etc wouldn't market 'MAF' specific cleaning spray if it didn't work! Plus the dyno plot was miles better than previously!
 
To try and track this issue down I've knocked up a quick flow chart (no pun intended!) tracking what I think is all the possible areas that impact boost:



(Note: I am not an Engineer, so this is Johnny, Age 5, level drawing ;) )

If there's any area or factor missing, please let me know, as I intend to use this to track my progress in each area to definitely eliminate them step by step from the possible causes.

From that diagram the current hit list (with priority (1-4) in brackets)is:

Map
Celtic Stage 3 (4) - Checked - Unlikely to be cause.

Turbo
Hybrid Turbo (4) - Not Checked - Unlikely to be cause.

Sensors:
MAF (2) - Checked - New one ordered anyway - probably a waste of money, but it'll shut Celtic up! :D.
EVR (2) - Swapped with other EVR - no difference - May replace with new one once leak check complete.
MAP (2) - Not Checked - New one ordered.
FSV (4) - Not Checked - Not likely to impact.

Air Flow:
Airbox to Compressor (3) - Not Checked - Unlikely to be cause.
Compressor to FMIC (1) - Not Checked - Possible leak may cause loss of boost - Test Kit Ordered for Friday.
FMIC to IMRC (1) - Not Checked - Possible leak may cause loss of boost - Test Kit Ordered for Friday.
Cat #1 (3) - Not Checked - Could stock exhaust be strangling boost?
Cat #2 (3) - Not Checked - Could stock exhaust be strangling boost?

The reason I am prioritising the FMIC is because when it was first fitted there was a leak, which was eliminated, but the higher pressure may still be causing some leak-through - I certainly find it suspicious that it's near mirroring my old S2 map's boost - it may be that 15 psi is just where a connection gives way... The IC pipework does also have quite a few bends in it too...

So, currently I have ordered new MAF/MAP sensors and a pressure test kit: Turbo Supercharger Hose + Intercooler System Pressure Leak Test Tester Tool Kit | eBay and will investigate the FMIC pipe-work as a first priority.

Also, being able to track boost would be really useful, so I've got this: Wifi ELM327 Interface OBD2 OBDII Car Diagnostic Scanner Tool iPhone iPad PC UK | eBay

and will combine it with dashcommand for my iPhone to give me some idea of what the boost is doing.

Finally, a second-hand fuel pump has been sourced, which should eliminate the rail pressure issues. Looks like the postman's going to be busy soon!
 
I think it might actually be your turbo Mike.

As you know elite remaps develop our software and I spoke them before replying to you when you contacted me about tuning it.

They weren't interested because they've seen exactly this issue with the same setup for another customer. Their view was that it's the turbo itself. On their customer car it was ether boosting too much or too little and they just didn't have the time to mess around and try and develop new software when their focus is to work on the latest generation of cars.

I've also had another similar enquiry from someone running a Celtic stage 3 with the same problem on their civic. I've advised its unlikely to be the tuning and more likely the hardware.

Elite advised that a more expensive and higher quality hybrid from turbo technics will not have this issue.
 
I suspected you might say this Fahad - and I had sourced the Turbo prior to our chat, unfortunately!

Did Elite say why they thought the Turbo might be doing that, if you're able to say? Just seems odd! I could understand if it was either not boosting, or over-boosting, due to a different profile and composition of the turbine wheels compared to what the map is expecting, but not a variation of those two things.

(I am not an engineer, though :D)

I'll see what happens with the stuff I have planned immediately, but am staying mindful of your points! I've pretty much eliminated everything bar FMIC or Turbo, so should have clarity by next week.
 
Basically mate it's cheap tat with internals from China. I am yet to see any honda Ictdi happily running a stage 3 with one of these units on it. They may say publicly they're working great because they want to save face but privately I'm getting quite a few enquiries for us to 'solve' the mapping.

Elite's view was that the higher quality turbo technics units are the way to go if someone really wants to do this.

For what it's worth I hope you find a happy medium and get this working to your satisfaction.
 
Well, it's food for thought. Currently mine appears to be working fine and I think my immediate problem is a boost leak, so until that's sorted I can't dig into anything else. All the other units manage to get to 22 ish psi, so right now my suspicions aren't on the turbo.

As said, I'll ensure all the bits around it are good, so I have a firm base, then see where I am and whether I get any further issues once it is at the right boost.

FWIW, a careful drive home yesterday did seem to allow me to get more boost than before by gently increasing the throttle, rather than WOT. I suspect an IC pipe is slightly loose, as I could also sometimes hear a very, very faint whistle too.

Test kit will arrive on Fri and tell all!! :)
 
Put your obd into logging mode and then monitor the boost requests and check for any deviation between target and actual
 
The ELM327 OBD2 reader arrived toady, so I got it connected to Dashcommand and went for a drive...

MAF and MAP look fine (to me), which isn't too much of a surprise. Boost on the other hand... I feel a bit better now, as my Butt Dyno wasn't as off as I thought.

The boost was fluctuating quite a lot; at time it was putting out 20 psi (max of 20.8 overall), but a lot of the times it was around 15-17 psi and quite often dropped from 18-20psi down to 13-15psi. If I was gentle on the throttle initially, then kept a steady increase to WOT, it would generally reach 20 psi. WOT from the off - generally not.

(Not fully up with DashCommand yet, so not sure how to monitor boost requests vs actual - will dig in now to see about it and try it when I next take the car out today).

ETA - think I've got it now - will see what LogFile it generates next time - have also downloaded ScanXL, which should allow me to interpret it.

So! My thoughts are still that there may be a boost leak in the FMIC piping, but other culprit could be a weak EVR valve (maybe), or, something else!!
 
Or more likely what I've already suggested which is a rubbish turbo unit itself mate..
 
where is your boost reading taken from? It would make sense to check for leaks in the pipework first. On a side note I would be sceptical of the turbo achieving way more than 200hp but good to see you push the boundaries to see what's achievable
 
Salim said:
where is your boost reading taken from? It would make sense to check for leaks in the pipework first. On a side note I would be sceptical of the turbo achieving way more than 200hp but good to see you push the boundaries to see what's achievable
Taken from the OBD port, so it's calculating it from MAP and a few other variables (IIRC). The pressure test kit that is arriving today will allow me to test the IC pipework (first candidate), and I have already checked the vacuum pipes that feed the VNT actuator, EVR etc (fine).

The stock turbo has been dyno'd at over 200hp, with supporting mods, but is on the edge of its efficiency (you could also ask what correction factors are being used on the Dyno, but I'm not going there!). This turbo is theoretically rated at a lot more then that, but the limiting factor is the fuelling. If by 'way more' power, you mean 240+, then that's true, but around 210-220, maybe even 230 with a freer flowing exhaust should be achievable.
 
Well, it's been a bit of a busy day.

I won't bore you with the details of trying to work out why my new Galletto cable wasn't working, just to say that I found an old AV program that I thought was long gone was still sort of there and causing issues... Anyway. I now have a working Galletto!! :D

But, back to the beginning. I got to the workshop where the A-Spec suspension and CMC are being fitted, along with the used HP fuel pump (arrived early), along with my pressure test kit. Really simple to use, but didn't come with a pressure gauge! Luckily I had one available on the air line, so set to work.

The result was pretty conclusive. Anything above 10psi, the following happened:

http://youtu.be/***KRIajXF8

and a bit of bumper dismantling showed this:



Cleaned it all up, tightened everything on that side and it was then able to hold 30psi fine! :D

A test drive after that confirmed that the boost variation was still there, if anything a bit more pronounced. I could get 20 psi if I used about 3/4 throttle, but not always and quite often it would suddenly drop back down. WOT - no chance - 15psi and that was your lot, pretty much, although the dashcommand makes fine measurement a bit difficult!

I then swapped back to my old S2 EGR off map, and found similar, if less pronounced, issues.

I wasn't too surprised.

So, it's now nicely narrowed down to the Turbo, and the next thing to look at is the VNT actuator, which may have been 'nudged' during the hybridisation. I now need to find somewhere down 'ere with HDS that doesn't mind me using them for datalogging. I'll try the Main Dealer, but am not too optimistic!

Still, The list of things to check is getting smaller and smaller :rolleyes:
 
All of this is great Michael, and I like your methodical approach to eliminate probable causes before you pinpoint blame.
 
F6HAD said:
All of this is great Michael, and I like your methodical approach to eliminate probable causes before you pinpoint blame.
Thanks Fahad - appreciated.

On other news, I'm digging into getting a log session on HDS with someone who's got a set, although that might take a while to set up! Until then I finally managed to export some of the runs I did on Dashcommand. One with the Stage 3 once the leak was fixed and one with the Stage 2.

Now that I've got the logging exporting bit sorted, as well as the leak, I'll be getting some more focused runs in, but suspect the one bit of info I can't get is the VNT demand data! Plus the full version of ScanXL is about £60, so I might hold off until i can sort out the HDS!
 
Does this turbo run off the original vacuum actuator for the vnt? Are the vanes completely different inside this hybrid unit?
 
F6HAD said:
Does this turbo run off the original vacuum actuator for the vnt? Are the vanes completely different inside this hybrid unit?
It runs off the same actuator and the VNT vanes are not modified (as far as I believe, anyway).

I've heard that a lot of *** VNT Hybrids have actuator related issues an they can be slightly moved out of alignment while being hybridised and need the rod length to be tweaked back to where the map expects it to be, so I'm going to investigate mine via HDS (hopefully) and see what it's doing.

On other news, then A-Spec suspension, Clutch Master Cylinder and Fuel Pump were fitted yesterday - good work from the garage that fitted it all!! Pics to follow tonight! :)
 
Well, pics were delayed slightly by the second-hand fuel pump dying on Monday, but after sourcing a reconditioned replacement and having it fitted today the car drives fine - seem to be having run of bad luck just now!!

On other news, the MAP and MAF turned up today and have... made no difference whatsoever (no surprise there). Therefore I am now left with VNT actuator, Turbo itself, or possibly a mapping issue as the causes of the issues, although the common view seems to now be focused on the actuator. To be continued...

On a different note, for those interested in the A-Spec ride height:



Sorry for the composite shot, but there's a bush in the way on my drive and I haven't had time to get any others, or any 'before' shots, but it's about 20mm lower at the rear and 15mm at the front (ish), so bang on what it should be and looks far better (IMO).

Having had it out for a long test drive today, on motorway and Devon back roads, I am still very happy with it - composed enough, but much firmer when subjected to cornering loads - an ideal daily driver compromise!

Finally, something else shiny has arrived a #1 Cat decat pipe:



Although I don't plan to fit it until I've resolved the current boost issues. Still - it is shiny! :D
 
Top