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Snapped driveshaft

mace

mace

Members
Messages
129
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17
Location
Glasgow
Car
Accord 2.4 Exec
Hi,

So, er.. :blush: anyone snapped a driveshaft on a 2.4 before?

*whistle*
 
I'd love to say rallying like a boss, but in reality, I was just setting off in a queue of traffic fairly briskly. For all of ~ 1 metre, before I stopped again. :(
 
My brother has had a nightmare with snapped driveshafts on his CL7 EuroR

Quote common on them apparently but i've not heard of it on the K24 cars yet
 
Shaft itself; I'll be taking photos and putting them up when I get a replacement.
 
Nope, stock all the way. If anything the engine is underpowered; it needs a rebuild.
 
I can't wait to see the pics, doesn't bode well for a 7th gen K24 with engine mods and/or remapped ECU
 
Lol ... Really how did you conclude this?
 
All depends. Mod anything and it takes a strain else where. You wanna see how I eat through suspension bushing since lowering my car ;) . You take a 13 year old, tired drive shaft and put more HP and Torque than it expects through it, of course it's going to give eventually. That said, the K24s are renowned for their drive shafts issues. My Honda garage have told me as such, that they're very common issues and they tend to keep a pair of Accord drive shafts in stock for just such an occasion... :rolleyes:. As they do with rear brake callipers, as they know they tend to seize.

My drive shaft snapped yesterday. The garage said on the phone it was rusty and corroded. I live on the coast, the air is salty etc... I've been getting slight warning vibrations for a long time now, but they've not been dramatic vibrations so I was ignoring them and putting off spending out on new drive shafts until I really had to, like I will tomorrow when I collect my car from the garage.
 
Aa you can see that snapped in a stock car not modified, I and others have modified engines and it didn't snap anything. So trying to correlate a modified engine for a driveshaft issue is like saying if you have *** you might get sick lol, yes some do get sick but must of the others are fine :)
 
cuts either way dude .....

e796528246914200ec74564bbb47c64f.jpg
 
I think to be fair, if the engine remap I run was strong enough to snap my draft shaft, I'd have snapped it long ago :lol: . I'd also have other major problems if it was that powerful. I have a stock clutch that's done 60K. Surely that would have died long ago if the remap was that strong ;) .

You see, I've had two two niggling issues for a very long time. One is a slight steering wheel vibration at 40 and 60 mph (most likely drive shaft related). Perhaps I should have replaced my drive shafts some time ago when first noticing the vibration to negate against the full break...? The other is issue I have is a noisy/squeaky clutch release bearing. I expect at some point my clutch will fail in the future too. But both these issues have been present for about 3 years, long before I had my remap. I've been waiting for them to get worse before doing anything about it. I know many here wouldn't and would act earlier before a complete failure.

Maybe the small increase in BHP and torque I have as a result of my remap has contributed to the wear, but I'd be very reluctant to draw a direct link between the state of my drive shafts and clutch to my remap. They've been imperfect since before my remap. There are many other factors too. I drive the car hard, I live on the coast, literally 100 metres from the sea, so the salt will play its part on corrosion, which is what the garage have said was the problem with my drive shaft. "Rotten" were the mechanic's words. I'll upload photos when I get the broken shaft back tomorrow.

On the other hand, my compliance bushes, anti roll bar bushes and drop links, I've no doubt prematurely wear due to the 40mm lowering. I replaced my drop links and bushes prior to lowering and have had to replace them all again since. I replaced my compliance bushes 18 months ago and they need to be replaced again already. I'm replacing my compliance bushes with poly bushes this time to try and prevent against such premature wear again. Uncharacteristic wear.
 
Those shafts snap unpredictable. Some guys change em on bone stock cars at some low mileage like 70-80k miles, some supercharged guys shred tires for years and so far so good. Shafts longevity mostly depends on patterns of use and timely inspection and maintenance. And they have their lifespan too, plus some batch can be better than the other. If you like to turn the wheels and floor the pedal off the line - be prepped to change em often. Those failed i saw been mostly screwed because of damaged dust shield and owners brain absence. On the straight line they are ok to hold up to 400hp. I punished shafts since day 1 i got my car new, they havent seen anything but rush speed and pain. But i did it in a wise manner, never loaded in a way they dont like it and they perform like new after 100k km.
 
littlebo said:
If you like to turn the wheels and floor the pedal off the line - be prepped to change em often.
Click to expand...
I'm guilty of having done this from time to time :blush: . Perhaps not floored, but certainly enthusiastically accelerated. I should note, from a cold start, I pulled a fairly swift, full lock U-turn about 5 second before the shaft went pop... :rolleyes:
 
I don't recall driveshafts snapping on 7th gen K24's up until now, so clearly the issue is based on age of the shaft.

This post started with it happening on a "stock" K24 and my comment was based on the fact that, if they can snap on a "stock" engine and transmission, then clearly a "modded" K24 is not gong to increase the longevity of the "stock" transmission.

There will be some people who buy this modded K24 map, and expect that they need to do nothing else to the transmission on an already ageing car.

I have had my car since 2006, I have done 85,000 miles in it, a very large proportion of that time it has been in the lowest gear possible for the relevant situation, ready to floor the accelerator, and floored when the opportunity arose (this applies to motorway driving as well as town traffic). IMO Honda put the dip in the torque there for more than one reason, one must be to increase the longevity of the transmission. As highly skilled engineers (up at a level far beyond the level of knowledge of most "modders") they would have known the spec of the transmission and so they put in a level of safety on the output of the engine to at least make sure the transmission was never compromised in the first 3 years of the car's life. Obviously, as the car ages, the engineering spec of the transmission starts to reduce, and thus it would be daft to up-rate the output of the engine torque (at any point in the curve) without expecting to have to replace anything in the transmission. All I am doing here (without mentioning it in the re-map thread) is trying to put out a message that anyone who buys the re-map should not expect that they will never need to fork out money on the ageing transmission n the car.
 
I don't think anyone is under any illusion that they can modify their ageing cars in any way and not need to do future supporting modifications. Anyone modifying a car, especially an older one thinking that nothing's going to go wrong with their car afterwards is frankly naive. Then again to instantly point at a modification as a likely cause for a fault on a modified car could be considered rash.

I see what you're getting at but it seems a little odd that you're focussing so quickly on the modified element. As i mentioned, my mechanic has pointed squarely at rust and corrosion. That's got nothing to do with the remap and it would have snapped remapped or not. Loads of us here have remaps on either petrols or diesels. Some experience faults, others don't. The kind of power increases we're talking about are small, there are many other contributing factors behind why faults happen. Things are going to break on a 13 year old car, modified or not. I'll get photos tomorrow as I'm getting my car back in the morning. I'll post them in my thread so we can see the offending item.
 
Hm dunno why I wasn't getting updates on this topic.. Probably a factor here that our European cousins don't see, the sheer quantity of salt (and salt alternatives) they dump on the roads in the UK - not sure where Steve is (thought it was Scotland but his location says otherwise), but I'm up near Glasgow so it's usually crap up here most of the year round.. :)
 
My car started its life in Aberdeen I think. But now I live less than 100m from the sea on the south coast. I drive busy country roads almost daily that get salted all the time, the moment there's a chance of cold weather. So between the salty air and salty roads... :(
 
Ive given both mine a layer of good quality grease, its been a few weeks now and some big puddles n heavy rain, its still on there nice, repelling water, cant hurt can it?
 
Picard-Facepalm-Cookies_1.jpg


:lol:
 
:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
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