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Have I used the wrong oil?

ship69

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'08 i-DTEC EX man 5D
Hello

I am worried my local garage has put the wrong engine oil into my Honda Accord.

My car: a Honda Accord 2.2 i DTEC EX Tourer 5dr (08 - 09) - Diesel 2199cc

My local Honda dealer just say put "5W-30 Fully Synthetic" in. They wanted to charge £185 for an oil change (including filter). They normally use the brand Shell Helix apparently.

My local garage put the following oil in:
"Triple QX SynPlus 5W-30 - Fully synthetic for *** Vehicles"
It also meets the requirements of "ACEA C3-12", "API SN", plus "Porsche C30" ... "MB-Approval 229.1"

Honda's instruction manual says that they recommend "ACEA A3/B3" or "ACEA A4/B5". It also says:
> On European models without service reminder systems ACEA A1/B1, ACEA A3/B3 or
> ACEA A5/B5 could also be used
...i.e. Nowhere do they mention "ACEA C3-12"
==> Should I be worried?

My local garage charged just £85.50 including filter, which compared to the Honda dealer is suspiciously cheap, no?

J
 
Cliffordski said:
No.

It's low SAPS, which is what you want if you still have a DPF.

Sulphated Ash Phosphorus Sulphur

OK so that means low "Sulphated Ash Phosphorus Sulphur", which means that the ash won't clog up my Diesel Particulate Filter, yes?

And Tripple QX are a reasonable brand - broadly just as good as Shell Helix, yes?
 
Triple QX is good. I've used it in my earlier diesel for many years.

Technically the Honda multi-grade recommendation for 'Europe' is now 0w-30 for all diesels. But even Honda dealers (including our affiliated Honda dealer, Holdcroft Honda) skimp a little and use the cheaper 5w-30... It won't matter in our temperate UK climate, but could cause the oil to flow a bit too slow during warm up after a cold start somewhere in Northern or Eastern Europe.
 
edgeoftime said:
you need low saps 0-30, no other, speak to lubetech.

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/forum/58-lubetech/
I am confused. How do I find out if my oil is Low SAPS "0-30" ?
Will I be okay then or do I need to replace my oil immediately?!

What will go wrong - is it just a matter of being likely to clog up the DPF? Of will the engine wear be affected? \
What about MPG?
 
Read this!

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/7015-which-oil-lets-keep-it-simple/

My last four oil changes have been done by myself, using what Bone recommends, no problems yet, and change it every 6.000, do not stretch it out to the Honda schedule of 12,000. Get yourself a Pela extractor and drag it up through the dip stick hole. Change the filter at 12,000. You will save ££££'s

My 7th gen tourer did 198,000 using lubetech no worries at all. DO NOT GARAGES RIP YOU OFF.

Get your filter from here

http://www.mister-auto.co.uk/en/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI5s7jxuei1QIVbLXtCh0F3wP2EAAYASAAEgJ3LPD_BwE

Again I have used Blue print brand with no problems. Would use Honda fuel filter though listed as Bosch
 
OK that's interesting that Honda are putting in 5w30 whereas folks here are recommending 0w30. Having just paid £85 to change the oil, I am reluctant to replace my 5w30 oil just yet. Is using 0w30 only likely to be a problem in cold/winter weather? Maybe I'll change it in Nov/December.

Re the filter, I cant actually see my oil filter (without putting the car on a ramp), but my local garage told me it was likely to be either Mann or possibly a Crossland brand of oil filter.

J
 
honda-accord-frv-2.2-cdti-n22a1-engine-838-p.jpg


Filter is by the yellow dip stick
 
That's an ICTDI engine. The thread relates to an IDTEC
 
ship69 said:
OK that's interesting that Honda are putting in 5w30 whereas folks here are recommending 0w30. Having just paid £85 to change the oil, I am reluctant to replace my 5w30 oil just yet. Is using 0w30 only likely to be a problem in cold/winter weather? Maybe I'll change it in Nov/December.
Re the filter, I cant actually see my oil filter (without putting the car on a ramp), but my local garage told me it was likely to be either Mann or possibly a Crossland brand of oil filter.

J
5w-30 will only be a minor issue if you plan to take the car somewhere properly cold (seriously sub-zero), but not a concern for the UK.

OEM (Honda) oil filter on the I-CTDi is actually made by Mahle, but don't know about the iDTEC. Mann are good, but do avoid Crossland!
 
Try opening the bonnet and maybe get your hands dirty? as John smoking man says the oil filter will jump out and bite you!! Please make sure you use lo saps oil, and 0-30 fully synth, or you will end up spending money on new pump/timing chains, you should have come here before going to your local blacksmith.
 
Don't worry about it - your Honda dealer, your local garage, Halfords online oil checker, and Jon, all recommend 5W 30 !

It'll be fine.

A Crossland filter though..... ;) just kidding.
 
I took my accord i dtec to get an oil and filter change at national for £50.

the oil they use us 5w30 as per honda recommendation.

within a week of 90pc motorway driving my dpf light came on.

ever since then I have as some owners do...use a oil extractor and get some lubetech 20l oil and do the oil change meself.

I'm not a hands on person. but the oil change is pretty **** easy.
 
samlam34 said:
I took my accord i dtec to get an oil and filter change at national for £50.

the oil they use us 5w30 as per honda recommendation.

within a week of 90pc motorway driving my dpf light came on.

ever since then I have as some owners do...use a oil extractor and get some lubetech 20l oil and do the oil change meself.

I'm not a hands on person. but the oil change is pretty **** easy.

Did it put light out? or have it done permanent damage??
 
when the dpf light came on which I put down to the **** oil that was put in to the engine. i got a remap and got the dpf sorted by premier tuning.

and as the incorrect oil in the engine was always playing on the back of my mind. after the trip to premier tuning I got and oil change to the 0w30 lubetech stuff.

must of been within 1000miles of the earlier oil change from national.

running very very sweet with cetane booster now.
 
Samlam34

£50 for an oil change Inc filter that's cheap, Castrol of the correct grade is in the region of £40 for the required amount plus a filter! did National use the correct oil???? and did it meet the low SAPS requirement.
 
Agreed lesson learnt never leave car alone always stay with vehicle so you know what is going on

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk
 
I reckon a good idea that some garages could try, is a camera that looks at the car where the work is being done (usually from the front) and you get a DVD of it all when the work is finished.
 
freddofrog said:
I reckon a good idea that some garages could try, is a camera that looks at the car where the work is being done (usually from the front) and you get a DVD of it all when the work is finished.
iT STILL DOES NOT SHOW WHAT IS IN THE CAN
 
national used 5w30 oil. equivalent to castrol.

I don't believe they knew about low sap ash oil as 5w30 is the honda generic guideline national abide.


Do the oil change yourself with a oil extractor ÷ ebay filter + 20l of lubetech.

if u do 20k+ a year and like to keep ya car long. go this route
 
Just for clarity, the current Honda oil recommendation for diesels in Europe is actually 0w-30 and any diesel with a DPF needs a low-SAPS engine oil.

However 5w-30 should be adequate for use in the UK. It appears that even Honda dealers commonly use this grade despite the official recommendation.
 
Jon_G said:
Just for clarity, the current Honda oil recommendation for diesels in Europe is actually 0w-30 and any diesel with a DPF needs a low-SAPS engine oil.

However 5w-30 should be adequate for use in the UK. It appears that even Honda dealers commonly use this grade despite the official recommendatio
Use the right stuff, 0-30 fully synth, low saps, save yourself a chain gang job.
 
edgeoftime said:
Use the right stuff, 0-30 fully synth, low saps, save yourself a chain gang job.
The chains wear due to soot contamination in the oil, not the cold start rating of the engine oil. A good reason to replace the engine oil at intervals much less than the recommended 12.5k miles!

I avoid the Lubetech stuff merely because I don't want to end up with a giant drum that does not divide equally by the amount required for an oil change. My last oil (Total Quartz 9000) cost less than £4/L anyway.
 
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