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Can you disable the ABS light by removing a fuse or something?

Thanks, that certainly does sound less daunting. Its got me thinking what do BBA reman do to the pump?

I found a thread on honda tech showing how to fix an abs module ...

http://honda-tech.com/honda-prelude-4/abs-code-1-fix-pics-2830570/

Id be more than happy to give this a go but do you think its worth swapping out the faulty wheel sensor first?

Im sorry I didnt make a note of the codes shown on the scanner. I should have done so.


This thread is useful also..... http://honda-tech.com/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/fix-your-abs-system-$1-51-no-gimmicks-241713/
 
Just to give some background info... I have carried out engine swaps in the past on older hondas (CRX, civic) but never got involved in anything newer than obd1. I have a set of the flared nut spanners and some fine sandpaper to hand (800, 1000, 1200, 1500grit). Im confident in doing this job if someone can confirm that it is similar to what is mentioned in the honda tech threads. The worst thing would be doing the job and then finding im back to square one and the light is still on. I shall do soem more reading on the subject before making a decision.

This was meant to be the good solid reliable family car that I wouldnt need to get my hands dirty on but it seems things never change :D
 
those honda tech threads look really good ! :)

also, I myself am really puzzled as to what/where/how/why the ABS produces codes that can indicate what/where/how/why the problem really is (if anyone knows what I mean)
 
Thanks Brian. I know what you mean. I think it would be a quick and easy job to replace the wheels sensor anyhow then crack on with this other abs module job. The car isnt used everyday at the moment so I have that in my favour.

What I want to avoid is taking it back to the garage to check ive cleared a code here and a code there (£30 a time), it would be nice if my HDS cable and software can pick that up for me but I failed to get it to provide any useful information. I dont think I should condemn it yet though. i'll keep you guys posted as to how I get on.
 
The rear wheel sensors can corrode in the housing. I would use a multimeter on resistance and spin the wheel to see if it changes. If that confirms the sensor is dead, replace it then repeat the test. Then see what the abs module says after that. I would be tempted to look for dry/failing solder joints on the abs module before sending it away.
 
Thanks Dave. I remember you saying that before now but still have gone ahead and opted to change the sensor. I tried removing it... it broke so ive started drilling it out and removing the remains. Plusgas seemed to disolve the plastic on the sensor though. I also fear that I may of drilled in too much :unsure: I guess the worst case scenario is replacing the whole hub from a breakers.



 
Hi Nick- thanks for the pics. I had the abs/vsa light on for a few days about 6 months ago, nothing since. Was thinking of cleaning the sensor. Looking at your images above, is there any way to clean the abs sensor without taking the drive shaft out or removing the sensor itself? And what's going to happen to any plastic bits that fall in the hole?
 
If your light isnt on now id leave it well alone. When it comes back id take it to a garage and ask them to tell you which sensor is at fault if you dont happen to know already?

My abs sensor is on the rear so no need to go near any driveshafts for me. I havent inspected the front setup as of yet. I dont think its the sensor that needs cleaning but more so the port that it goes into. To clean the sensor or the port, the sensor will need to be removed. If you have time on your side spray it with penertrating fluid for a few days before removing. If it breaks and you drill it out then you'll need an ***ortment of pointy objects to clean it out. Im going to do this later or tomorrow to mine and shall be armed with toothpicks, earbud cleaners and an ***ortment of small screwdrivers. I also have some gasket remover which is a solvent to clean it up with after...... bear in mind this is all theory at the moment. I'll report back with what works best.

I ordered a new sensor this morning from ebay which was £17 delivered. Its arriving monday so i'll fit it and post up the results.
 
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/4614-diy-rear-hub-bearing-***embly/

9th image down...its a fair bit of work, but you can get to the rear sensor for cleaning without removal of sensor itself.
 
Well spotted. I had a skim read of that post last night but must of missed the point of it as it was late. That in hinesight would of been a better method if i'd known the chances of breaking the sensor were high. This is the first time ive had to change an abs sensor. I was avoiding it at first thinking the sensors were expensive but they are pretty cheap. I think if you have an intermittent fault then it is best doing the method you just posted. Apparently there is a chance my sensor may arrive tomorrow.... but I wont hold my breath.
 
The sensor arrvied on saturday and ~I fitted it today. I took apart the hub so I could see how clean things were inside. Al seemed ok. Once I saw the new sensor I knew how much I needed to drill out. I basically matched up the drill bit to the sensor width and it was done in a couple of minutes. The code is still there although I havent taken it for a drive yet, I was going to ask... does anyone know how to clear codes without a scanning tool? Cant I just reset the battery? Im not having much luck with my hds copy cable and software. Its looking like ive got to go back to the garage and pay another £30 before I start looking at the abs pump. Some people have said their abs light is intermittent so im hoping after a drive it might just go out... or am I being too hopeful?

Cheers
 
re the HDS .....if it's like mine then it connects using (not-so) good-old RS232 ....you'll need to get a USB-to-RS232 lead.

If you've got that far ad it's still not working, you need the right drivers, and then you need to make sure that the COM port is set up properly

Also, if the software won't install from the (cheap) disc that comes with the HDS, copy it onto the hard-drive first

If you want more details let me know, maybe I could do a "how-to" thread on HDS set-up.
 
Thanks Brian, those all look like things I can try quite easily. I'll give it a whirl and let you know the outcome. Out of interest if changing the sensor has fixed the fault will it dissapear on its own or will it stay on the dash until it is cleared/erased?
 
Also can anyone tell me the location of the ABS fuse? The link below shows there as being one but im having difficulty working out where it is. I wanted to try removing and replacing it and of course checking whether the fuse is knackered.

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/15684-fuse-listing/

18 40A (with VSA) WHT/GRN ABS modulator-control unit (+B FSR), VSA modulator-control unit
20A (with ABS)

What is +B FSR? Is it near the ABS pump (i.e. where all the brake lines go into?)

Thanks
 
I test drove the car today after the sensor was replaced and the light went out :D Im so pleased it doesnt seem to be the abs pump. The guy at the garage said sometime a faulty sensor can cause a spike which will show up the pump as being faulty so im guessing thats what happened. Now I need to MOT it then I can start fixing the leaky injector (which I can feel blowing with my hand). I really shouldnt of replaced the pollen filter as now I get fresh diesel fumes in the cabin.
 
No, it isn't code speak.

If you keep driving it with a leaking injector gasket then the injector will become stuck into the head and you'll never get it out without special tools.
 
Ah I see. I was thinking abs still :p Yeah that all makes sense now. Once its through the MOT I shall have a look at the injector. I heard pouring cola on the carbon build up can help loosen it and make the injector come out easier. The mechanic that I went to see the abs light about seemed to think it would work. Im guessing it would work best on a warm engine if so.
 
I thought that might be the case thats why I thought a hot engine would be best. WD40 doesnt seem like it will eat away at the carbon build up? How badly carboned up was your injector?
 
Others suggest brake fluid (which I would be happier with, personally). Mine were all fairly free of carbon, but hadn't been leaking (I removed them all to get the cam cover off, as a necessary step while replacing the timing chains).

I notice that you have had this problem since last year... http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/18774-replacing-injector-seal-can-i-diy-it/#entry204519 I wouldn't put it off for much longer, as it can turn into a pig of a job.
 
It was actually noted in the service history at about 67k, the car is now on 155k. A guy at the motor factors said if its running just to leave it be.

Im just having a read of your thread now... http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/17379-diesel-injector-removal/
I have plusgas and oven cleaner available.

I do have some old brake fluid I was about to throw away. Maybe I should brush some on with a paint brush. I'll post up a pic sometime on the other thread I started showing the carbon build up. Once I sort this out then the car is problem free. Apart from lacquer peeling in random places and especially the bonnet but I can live with that.
 
Just a quick update on the HDS and its abilities on the ABS/VSA

I checked it out earlier today, and the HDS has full testing abilities on the ABS and VSA sensors and solenoids

HDS is an excellent bit of kit, can save a lot of worry on any potential problems in a pre-facelift, which is why I bought it (but never needed it yet)
 
Thanks Brian. The HDS I have is possibly a pirated copy from china. Im interested to know does yours connect to the laptop via usb or rs232? I have ordered a usb coupler and a usb to rs232 cable but I dont know if that will make the connection anymore reliable as surely it will bottleneck through the usb connection anyhow. It seems to be a bit sporadic my HDS but I still dont think ive set it up correctly. Im sure I shall have a play about in future and report back my findings.
 
Mine is also a Chinese clone.

AFAIK, all HDS for 7th gen connect to the PC/laptop via RS232.
RS232 uses a 9-way D-type the same size as a VGA connector (except the opposite "***").

I had an older PC in my loft with RS232 built-in to the motherboard, and I tested the HDS on that to begin with (because I had full control over the RS232 COM Port settings in BIOS).

When I got it working on that PC, I then had two options for a modern laptop

1. an RS232 adapter on a PCMCIA card. This is a small card that plugs into the PCMCIA slot on a laptop with a 9-way D-type on the card. I bought this item on ebay from a UK supplier for about £10. The driver disc that came with the item was ok, but the COM Port settings were "hard-wired" on the PCMCIA card, and were incompatible with the COM Port settings in the HDS software (no way to change the settings in the HDS software). So I contacted the seller, explained the issue, sent it back, got my £10 back.

2. an RS232 adapter on a USB cable, which plugs into any USB slot, which has a 9-way D-type on one end (with a lump in the cable for the hardware converter). I bought this item on ebay from a Chinese supplier for about £3. I had a lot of trouble with the tiny driver disc that came with this item. I messaged the chinese bods that sent it to me, and they were extremely helpful, giving me various links on the internet for drivers. Eventually I found drivers that worked, and then I had to set up the COM Port settings in Device Manager same as I had set them up in BIOS on the older PC. It worked !!


Basically, the RS232 settings in the HDS will only work with certain RS232 COM Port settings (either real or virtual), but once it is set up properly, it has no problems. USB has a superior bit-rate to RS232, so there is no bottle-neck. How the HDS software finds the data inside the laptop, from a "virtual" COM Port is a mystery to me, but it does find it..

Also, I think that the USB-to-RS232 cable will only work on a built-in USB connector on the laptop, it won't work through an external USB Hub, so if you only have two USB sockets on the laptop, you must plug the USB-to-RS232 cable directly into one of the sockets, and use a Hub on the other socket (if you still require two other USB devices).

To summarise
1. HDS comes with an RS232 cable to connect to the PC/laptop
2. If you do not have RS232 hardware on your PC/laptop, use a USB-to-RS232 converter cable
3. The USB-to-RS232 cable must plug directly into a USB slot on the PC/laptop
4. You must have the right drivers for the converter on the USB-to-RS232 cable
5. You must be able to have full control of the RS232 COM Port settings in Device Manager
 
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