I've gone through a few different heavy greases and they all lasted about a month. Then I found Servisol Silicone Grease. It's been about a year and a half since I used it to solve my creaking clutch and it hasn't come back yet. It's a bit pricey but totally worth it when it lasts as long as it has.
Clutch Pedal Creaking/Clicking Fix
- Thread starter F6HAD
- Start date
Cheers for the tip Ross, i'm just getting the one click when i push down on the clutch, sometimes if i push on the clutch slowly it doesnt click. Is this the stuff you used?? and how much did you use?? http://www.rapidonline.com/Mechanical-Fastenings-Fixings/Servisol-Silicone-Grease-50g-Tube-87-1172/?source=googleps&utm_source=googleps&gclid=CLK-5s3rsL0CFY_HtAodJhwAKw2.4_Roar said:
toffee_pie
Members
this is the one
SayamaAccord
And still...
SayamaAccord
And still...
Carlube silicone grease
Carl H
Members
That's the stuff that I used. Seems to do the trick, but as has been said, it's not at all easy to do, especially if, like me, you aren't exactly petite.toffee_pie said:this is the one
Indeed, I used this stuff too. But being a skinny little 5'7" dude with skinny pianist fingers, I had no problem getting up and under with a syringe. I used a syringe I got from the vet for administering liquid medication down the cat's throat. But any kind of basic syringe will do the trick. Like the ones you get for giving babies calpol and stuff. I found I didn't need a tube, was able to get the syringe poked into where it needs to go.
I did this fix yesterday and my back is still in pain!
Used Servisol Silicon grease and syringe with tubing. Needed to cut tubing considerably as grease wouldn't pass through it. Ended up just using syringe and squirting what I could through the washer grooves. What came out I tried pushing back in with my fingers.
The creak stopped but one click came back last night. Hopefully overnight it's sorted but I'll report back.
Used Servisol Silicon grease and syringe with tubing. Needed to cut tubing considerably as grease wouldn't pass through it. Ended up just using syringe and squirting what I could through the washer grooves. What came out I tried pushing back in with my fingers.
The creak stopped but one click came back last night. Hopefully overnight it's sorted but I'll report back.
I found the best technique was to recline the drivers seat, lay on it upside down and get your head under the dash. It's a bit tricky for my 6'4" frame to get into position but it worked OK.
However, it's started going again recently so i'll need to do battle with it again at some point. I used Castrol LM grease but might pick up some Molykote for next time though.
However, it's started going again recently so i'll need to do battle with it again at some point. I used Castrol LM grease but might pick up some Molykote for next time though.
Most of my life I wish a I wash a little bit taller, but it's moments like this that me glad I'm little :lol: . Had none of these issues mentioned.
One click came back so I've put even more in. Tried the reclined seat forward somersault with a back flip method and it was a lot easier! Defo easier 2nd time when you know exactly where you're aiming. The click has gone completely this time so fingers crossed.
As to how much I used.....about half the 50g tube if not more. Its a cheap fix for what can be a really irritating noise.
As to how much I used.....about half the 50g tube if not more. Its a cheap fix for what can be a really irritating noise.
I found that my clicking and groaning noise was because one of the nuts which holds the clutch pedal braket and master cylinder had worked itself so loose that the nut nearly fell off on its own :blink:
For sure worth a look.
For sure worth a look.
Looking around the forum, this problem affects the 7th and 8th Gen.
Including my 8th gen.
Are the Master Cylinders the same on the 8th, the reason I ask is that I can not see the 2 holes in the washer as mentioned.
I am about to purchase the recommended grease and a plastic syringe and tubing but I am not too sure where to put the grease.
I see the plunger going in but no holes to insert the tube ?
Attached is a video of the part in question in my car
http://vid241.photobucket.com/albums/ff98/peterbfd/video-1430061701.mp4_1.mp4
Including my 8th gen.
Are the Master Cylinders the same on the 8th, the reason I ask is that I can not see the 2 holes in the washer as mentioned.
I am about to purchase the recommended grease and a plastic syringe and tubing but I am not too sure where to put the grease.
I see the plunger going in but no holes to insert the tube ?
Attached is a video of the part in question in my car
http://vid241.photobucket.com/albums/ff98/peterbfd/video-1430061701.mp4_1.mp4
The tube goes between the two slots of the plunger. Pretty sure they are different on each car
Forgive me, I am still a little confused...
All I am seeing is a hole (more of a rectangle shape) with a plunger behind it.
the plunger goes in and out, what slots are we talking about.
Do I just push the plunger down and squeeze the grease in, I ***ume not and it has be behind the plunger (so it does not just squirt back out).
I was under the impression that the plunger had a hole in which the grease tube when into, thus putting the grease behind the plunger
(PS - there is a replacement cylinder on eBay for £68)
All I am seeing is a hole (more of a rectangle shape) with a plunger behind it.
the plunger goes in and out, what slots are we talking about.
Do I just push the plunger down and squeeze the grease in, I ***ume not and it has be behind the plunger (so it does not just squirt back out).
I was under the impression that the plunger had a hole in which the grease tube when into, thus putting the grease behind the plunger
(PS - there is a replacement cylinder on eBay for £68)
Richardwellsy
Members
Sorry for a comment on an old post but my car has the dreaded clutch pedal squeak.
It doesn't actually annoy me that much (at the minute!).
If you don't lubricate it or try to sort it out, Is anything likely to break and cost loads of money? Or is it just a case of having to put up with the sound?
Cheers Rich
It doesn't actually annoy me that much (at the minute!).
If you don't lubricate it or try to sort it out, Is anything likely to break and cost loads of money? Or is it just a case of having to put up with the sound?
Cheers Rich
the creak is from 2 places sometimes it the clutch pedal, the clutch master cylinder or both. The easy way to find is to disconnect clutch pedal and push master cylinder rod and if that is smooth look for cracks around the clutch pedal. Also a flush of fluid will help, i repleaced my master cyclinder with second hand pedal and flushed fluid never heard a squeak or creak again.
see this posts 22-25
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/12324-clutch-and-gear-change-problams/page-2
see this posts 22-25
http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/12324-clutch-and-gear-change-problams/page-2
just a follow up on the dreaded clutch master cylinder whilst grease is temporary fix i have upgrade to k tuned clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder with braided hose and not looked back. Read article from k tuned below:
The DC5, EP3 and CL9 all have a known issue with their factory clutch master cylinders (CMC). If you look at the CMC on these cars more closely you'll notice that all of these models have a triangular shaped feedback plate positioned at the very end of the cylinder. This plate is basically a secondary valve that was designed to slow down the clutch engagement and reduce shock to the clutch itself and the surrounding drivetrain parts. This setup might be perfectly fine for people that just drive their cars for simple daily use but the delayed engagement can cause wear to the synchros and possibly even the gears on performance applications. The reason is fairly simple the factory CMC delays the clutch operation so it does not open fast enough to keep up with a fast shift. This means that pressure is being applied to the transmission synchros during the shift before they are ready for the actual gear change.
The K-Tuned Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade Kit was designed to completely replace the original factory cylinder and offer real time clutch engagement to support faster shifting. We have put together a complete bolt-on kit that includes a direct replacement CMC our high pressure 3AN clutch line plus all of the necessary fittings needed for installation. The factory clutch fluid reservoir is reused and connected the same way it was in stock form. The only thing we suggest is checking out your slave cylinder on the trans to confirm it is leak free. Aside from that installation is pretty simple install the parts and bleed the system using some new clutch fluid.
The DC5, EP3 and CL9 all have a known issue with their factory clutch master cylinders (CMC). If you look at the CMC on these cars more closely you'll notice that all of these models have a triangular shaped feedback plate positioned at the very end of the cylinder. This plate is basically a secondary valve that was designed to slow down the clutch engagement and reduce shock to the clutch itself and the surrounding drivetrain parts. This setup might be perfectly fine for people that just drive their cars for simple daily use but the delayed engagement can cause wear to the synchros and possibly even the gears on performance applications. The reason is fairly simple the factory CMC delays the clutch operation so it does not open fast enough to keep up with a fast shift. This means that pressure is being applied to the transmission synchros during the shift before they are ready for the actual gear change.
The K-Tuned Clutch Master Cylinder Upgrade Kit was designed to completely replace the original factory cylinder and offer real time clutch engagement to support faster shifting. We have put together a complete bolt-on kit that includes a direct replacement CMC our high pressure 3AN clutch line plus all of the necessary fittings needed for installation. The factory clutch fluid reservoir is reused and connected the same way it was in stock form. The only thing we suggest is checking out your slave cylinder on the trans to confirm it is leak free. Aside from that installation is pretty simple install the parts and bleed the system using some new clutch fluid.
Bounder
Members
Does this apply to the Diesel CMC as well as the petrol version?
Accord-EX
Members
I followed this guide using some Molykote 55 O ring grease and now the clutch is silent and so nice to use again! Great DIY!!