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DPF regeneration...

Hi All,

Can ***ume the DPF got fixed, so if anyone wants a well-looked after Accord Type-S; Here she is:

http://usedcars.cloverleaf-honda.co.uk/showroom/Accord/2.2i-DTEC-Type-S/Berkshire/2420818-602417969-3037330.aspx?srcmdc=se_ce_re_

:D
 
My Merc 2008 cdi must be only of the last cars produced without a DPF (272bhp/470lb/ft :D ). Although Merc forums don't seem to have too many people with DPF issues.
 
That's mainly because Merc drivers are sat on the motorway at 100mph and the DPF never has the chance to fill up.
 
Hi Chaps - I'm a newbe here so please tell me if I break any rules!

I have an Accord Este 2.2 diesel (60-plate) which was my wife's boss's former company car. I bought it from the lease company at 3yrs and 80k miles. I'd had it about 8 months when the DPF system check symbol came up (this would be August 2014). This was on the way back from a trip to scotland which has suffered almost stationary traffic on the M6 from Birmingham to about Preston, so I just put it down to too much sitting in traffic. I dropped into the dealer in Northampton and they did a regen, but warned me that it might come on again in a couple of weeks, in which case I should go to a local dealer who would do <something else>. That cost me £140ish, but I put it down to the traffic jam.

Sure enough, two weeks later the same symbol came up and I took it into the local dealer in Churt. They did a regen and a software update (about £100ish IIRC), and were surprised that Northampton hadn't done this. That seemed to fix it.

...until four weeks ago when it came on again about a week after it had been in for a (warranty) replacement of an EGR pipe which was itself done a week after it was spotted at the 100,000 mile service. I popped down to the dealer and they did a regen (£80), advising me that a quick run up the A3 would have done the same thing. So when it came on AGAIN as I left work this evening I drove up the A3 from Farnham to the M25 and back, but it stayed on so I guess I'm heading back to the dealer in the morning!

The thing is that having rechecked the manual my original understanding seems to have been correct. The symbol that came up is the "system check" one (the smoke symbol with the exclamation mark) rather than the "regen needed" symbol (smoke symbol on its own). In fact I have NEVER seen that symbol come up - it's always gone straight to the "system check" symbol.

Any thoughts? This can't be right, surely? Yes, I do mostly the 12 mile to/from work run, but every week I also do a run up the A3 to woking and back for the daughter's choir, and that's in the evening when the roads are fairly clear. If it needs more than that to remain healthy then I would want to see the warning "strictly for motorway use only" stencilled on the dashboard. And the doors. And the bonnet. And repeated as an audio announcement anytime any person is detected within 10 metres of it...

If this is going to cost me £80/month for routine regens I may have to visit Honda and administer it to the service manager in the form of a suppository!

Comments appreciated!

PDR
 
Hi Pete, so you've wasted some £300 so far and all you've done is block the system further and most likely started to create problems for your turbocharger as all that soot and ash that is hardened during the forced regen process is now building up on the vanes of your turbo. We had another in just this week (90k mile 2010 Tourer) which needed DPF removal and turbo strip down and clean.

Please don't waste any more money on forced regens. There are no shortcuts here, you either need to replace or remove the DPF.

If you would like a price for removal, drop me a line.
 
I've never taken any short-cuts - I've always done exactly what the dealer said needed doing. Is the dealer incompetent?

PDR
 
The dealer will only offer a replacement not a removal. If they've done one forced regen they shouldn't be offering another, although I note you went to multiple dealers.

I also offer forced regens but I strongly advise against it as I know from experience that once the light has been on once the dpf has had it. It's easier for me to do a forced regen and charge every time but ethically it's bad as I know exactly what the end outcome will be.

My original advice here stands. Remove or replace.
 
Out of interest what about these DPF cleaning services? The ones where they use foam to clean the DPF and from what I've seen flow it through and filter it? Presumably they soften the hard deposits and remove them?
There's a place local to me I've seen advertised and recommended. No idea if it's a new technique or just as temporary as a forced regen.
 
They buy you a bit more time than a forced regen normally, but that's all they do.. Delay the inevitable.

If you've ever seen the inside of a blocked dpf you would understand why nothing will ever shift the hardened rock like ash deposits.
 
Please don't waste time or money on cleaners or on gen dpf's second hand ones etc. Either bite the bullet and buy a new Honda unit, which is around £1100 fitted. I fitted one last week. Or take a trip to Fahad get it removed and remapped
 
^^ he can't speak in his official capacity I guess but he is a master tech at a honda main dealer. Listen to the man.
 
We had a customer who was trading his accord tourer in to another garage but the dpf light was on, he was told to sort it before trading it in. He tried the clean, then came to us for a regen, didn't work he then got a non gen one fitted elsewhere, didn't work he then came to us to get a genuine one fitted. I'm not saying this just to endorse Honda, I don't want people throwing money away when it can be avoided
 
I totally agree with Paul and Fahad, the DPF may well have hardened ash that will not come out now.

But it would be worth trying a run in the car at the correct speeds to see if it can clear it itself. My son has a Seat Leon TDI FR, and he mostly does very short journeys in it, so the DPF light comes on regularly. Despite me going through the conditions required, he still cannot clear the DPF warning light in his car as quickly as I can. Example from several weeks ago: 2.5 miles from my house there is a dual carriageway that is 1.5 miles long, and he told me that when the light comes on he drives up and down the dual carriageway several times to clear it. I told him to let me know next time, and I would drive the car, with him in the passenger seat, so that he could see what I was doing. I drove with the engine at 1400 rpm as much as possible (30 to 40 mph in relevant gears before the dual carriageway, then continued at 40 mph along the dual carriageway). The light went out just after the end of the first run up the dual carriageway (just over 4 miles of me driving it) i.e. if you keep the conditions right, you don't have to exceed even 40 mph for the ECU to do its own regen.

Note though, that in the Accord handbook, it does not specify the engine rpm, but IMO a constant 40 mph at around 1400 rpm, for several miles, might do it (you may need at least 10 miles, if you can't find anywhere safe at a constant 40 mph, try 50 mph, but do not exceed 50 mph)

For a bit more info read from #126 to #133 here http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/1534-dpf-what-is-it/?p=215138

I'm not saying that you will be able to achieve anything, but if you do, I'm sure you will get a "buzz" out of it, and certainly do not waste any more money on "forced" regens in workshops.
 
When I got my used accord at 72k miles the dpf light came in within 2 weeks (which is the reason I believe it was probably traded in) the very useless Volvo dealership I got it from didn't help atall as not covered by warranty.

I had the dpf regened for free as a big favour but the light came on again a few weeks later.

I then got desperate as i had spent alot of money on buying the car and also setting it up as a Taxi so I purchased a DPF from (not sure if I'm allowed to say this) E.C.P's. My car is now on 91k having done approx 18k on the non OEM DPF.

I haven't had any DPF light come on since but its always in the back of my mind, when (not if) it does start to play up again it will be going in for removal but until then, I monitor how many miles between regens and never turn the engine off before it has finished.

The easiest way to tell your Honda accord is trying to do a regen is if you take your foot off the gas and coast in gear, if the instant mpg bar on the trip computer does not go all the way to the top (100 mpg) its doing a regen.

As for how often obviously depends on your driving style, but my last one was over 800 miles before it regen'd.

I'm sorry if this doesn't help atall, just thought I'd add my personal experience on the matter.


Darren.
 
DazTheMe said:
When I got my used accord at 72k miles the dpf light came in within 2 weeks (which is the reason I believe it was probably traded in) the very useless Volvo dealership I got it from didn't help atall as not covered by warranty.

I had the dpf regened for free as a big favour but the light came on again a few weeks later.

I then got desperate as i had spent alot of money on buying the car and also setting it up as a Taxi so I purchased a DPF from (not sure if I'm allowed to say this) E.C.P's. My car is now on 91k having done approx 18k on the non OEM DPF.

I haven't had any DPF light come on since but its always in the back of my mind, when (not if) it does start to play up again it will be going in for removal but until then, I monitor how many miles between regens and never turn the engine off before it has finished.

The easiest way to tell your Honda accord is trying to do a regen is if you take your foot off the gas and coast in gear, if the instant mpg bar on the trip computer does not go all the way to the top (100 mpg) its doing a regen.

As for how often obviously depends on your driving style, but my last one was over 800 miles before it regen'd.

I'm sorry if this doesn't help atall, just thought I'd add my personal experience on the matter.


Darren.
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not having a diesel myself it's completely useless information LOL

But seriously, very good practical info on when and how often the Accord is doing a regen :)
 
DazTheMe said:
When I got my used accord at 72k miles the dpf light came in within 2 weeks (which is the reason I believe it was probably traded in) the very useless Volvo dealership I got it from didn't help atall as not covered by warranty.
I had the dpf regened for free as a big favour but the light came on again a few weeks later.
I then got desperate as i had spent alot of money on buying the car and also setting it up as a Taxi so I purchased a DPF from (not sure if I'm allowed to say this) E.C.P's. My car is now on 91k having done approx 18k on the non OEM DPF.
I haven't had any DPF light come on since but its always in the back of my mind, when (not if) it does start to play up again it will be going in for removal but until then, I monitor how many miles between regens and never turn the engine off before it has finished.
The easiest way to tell your Honda accord is trying to do a regen is if you take your foot off the gas and coast in gear, if the instant mpg bar on the trip computer does not go all the way to the top (100 mpg) its doing a regen.
As for how often obviously depends on your driving style, but my last one was over 800 miles before it regen'd.
I'm sorry if this doesn't help atall, just thought I'd add my personal experience on the matter.
Darren.
Click to expand...
Ah that's helpful info regarding coasting in gear. I only had mine for about 1k miles and not really figured out when it Regen yet.
But lets say its on a Regen just as you are coming to journey end. Do you have to drive extra miles then so it completes? That's just so counterproductive in terms of overall emissions!

I researched plenty about Honda dpf problems before purchasing and decided it's low risk for me as got nearly new with low mileage and I do plenty of motorway stints. But Im coming to the conclusion that I should sell before warranty expires
 
Honda dpf's aren't that bad we have only replaced about 10 in total that is Crv and accord models i think it does come down to how they're driven and they are classed as a wear and tear item so they will eventually fail. I know when my Crv one fails what I will be doing and that is having a chat with Fahad
 
Where did this gem come from??

The easiest way to tell your Honda accord is trying to do a regen is if you take your foot off the gas and coast in gear, if the instant mpg bar on the trip computer does not go all the way to the top (100 mpg) its doing a regen.
 
Lol I wondered the same. Honestly I read some of these threads and chuckle sometimes.. I have to do that otherwise I have to just hold my head in my hands and cry.
 
edgeoftime said:
Where did this gem come from??

The easiest way to tell your Honda accord is trying to do a regen is if you take your foot off the gas and coast in gear, if the instant mpg bar on the trip computer does not go all the way to the top (100 mpg) its doing a regen.
Click to expand...
Sorry if it sounded stupid or if I'm just wrong, what I meant was if the car has met the right conditions to initiate an active regen on its own then what I've noticed is when you're slowing down in gear the instant mpg bar won't go all the way to max because of the extra diesel being injected into the engine to bring the DPF up to temperature.

Obviously the other sign of an active regen being the big cloud of white smoke ****ing out the back. But for me its the easiest way to tell me I shouldn't turn off my car until it returns go normal mpg readings.
 
DazTheMe said:
Sorry if it sounded stupid or if I'm just wrong, what I meant was if the car has met the right conditions to initiate an active regen on its own then what I've noticed is when you're slowing down in gear the instant mpg bar won't go all the way to max because of the extra diesel being injected into the engine to bring the DPF up to temperature.

Obviously the other sign of an active regen being the big cloud of white smoke ****ing out the back. But for me its the easiest way to tell me I shouldn't turn off my car until it returns go normal mpg readings.
Click to expand...
that's what I thought you meant, I don't understand the strange reaction in #81 and #82, unless they have alternative explanations for this observation of yours
 
freddofrog said:
that's what I thought you meant, I don't understand the strange reaction in #81 and #82, unless they have alternative explanations for this observation of yours
Click to expand...
What we need is the dash indicator to let us know! i.e the ****** thing only comes on when the limp mode is imminent. When the engine is not burning fuel then the MPG GIZMO should read no fuel usage, If a regen is going on then let us know, surely that is the best option??
After all if Honda can fit tell tales to let us know the seat belt is not fastened, the handbrake is still on, your door is open, you have no fuel in the tank, then surely they can tell us when a regen is happening. OR IS IT ME THAT'S CRAZY?

Sorry just reread the book, and yes there is an indicator to let you know "regen" is required and upon receipt the driver is has to initiate regen by driving at 37 mph constantly for up to 15 minutes, if ignored another warning with ! included says get to your Honda man and have it checked out. But I cannot find any reference to as to when a regen is actually happening except for "you may notice some changes on the instrument panel (LIKE WHAT)? and WHITE SMOKE from the exhaust, and the average fuel consumption will be increased temporarily. While you are monitoring all this you have just ploughed into the poor sod in front of you.
 
Yeah it sounds like Honda (and probably many other manufacturers) need someone to tell them that a light on the dash would be a nice idea for when the ECU is performing its own regen. Having said that, as pointed out in #78, what does the driver do if the light comes on a couple of minutes before you reach your destination.

That's why the situation on y son's Seat Leon TDI is the best solution i.e. a light that tells you that the ECU wants to do a regen, a bit like a kid saying that he/she needs the toilet LOL
 
freddofrog said:
Yeah it sounds like Honda (and probably many other manufacturers) need someone to tell them that a light on the dash would be a nice idea for when the ECU is performing its own regen. Having said that, as pointed out in #78, what does the driver do if the light comes on a couple of minutes before you reach your destination.

That's why the situation on y son's Seat Leon TDI is the best solution i.e. a light that tells you that the ECU wants to do a regen, a bit like a kid saying that he/she needs the toilet LOL
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Go to bed and sleep if you can, the light will still be there in the morning and you can do something about it then.
 
edgeoftime said:
Go to bed and sleep if you can, the light will still be there in the morning and you can do something about it then.
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so it's either the nagging woman, or the potty training child :lol:
 
The light on your Leon is no different to the light on the Honda matey. All dpf systems work in the same way depending on whether they are active or passive systems. The difference is probably just that the ecu on the honda is calculating soot content and saturation levels differently to the software in the Leon and for now your son is getting away with it. He will have the BMN engine code in his FR, these have no cat, just a dpf.

I've had many through my hands as this unit was fitted to a number of VAG group cars. I can tell you now if he prolongs it he will end up needing a turbo decoke or worse.
 
F6HAD said:
I can tell you now if he prolongs it he will end up needing a turbo decoke or worse.
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makes sense, he says he wants to get rid of it and buy a petrol engined car, I'll tell him to hurry up :)
 
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