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Engine swap

Haha they're speed holes!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVV_COOey0E&feature=youtube_gdata_player

It's really tempting mate, it's just a shame I wouldn't be able to run the IABS on my manifold :( need to actually get the car set up first at any rate, selling a couple of bits I have lying around though so might have some spare cash soon :p although I need a new car too!! So much to do :s
 
hi, fairly new to this forum but i have just completed a full swap from a f20b6 to a h22a2. the wiring wasnt fun but me and a mate had it running 100% in a couple of hours. we used a obd2b - obd1 convertor and im currently running a p13 ecu. as for the interior everything is working fine inc all the dash instruments. as soon as i have time i will make a thread full of pictures of the whole process and if you have any problems whatsoever feel free to ask because i have probably encountered them!
 
ptaroni said:
hi, fairly new to this forum but i have just completed a full swap from a f20b6 to a h22a2. the wiring wasnt fun but me and a mate had it running 100% in a couple of hours. we used a obd2b - obd1 convertor and im currently running a p13 ecu. as for the interior everything is working fine inc all the dash instruments. as soon as i have time i will make a thread full of pictures of the whole process and if you have any problems whatsoever feel free to ask because i have probably encountered them!
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Glad to hear it was successful mate, and would be excellent to see your pics. Did you use the wiring loom from the F series engine then, and just stick an OBDII-OBDI converter on the end? I'd have thought there'd be different connections on the H series engine for things like the knock sensor? Or did you use a UKDM engine?
 
Mine was a ukdm engine , most of the connectors are the same, just had to extend or shorten some wires! Yes i used the F series wiring loom and a convertor. The only real trouble i had was the alternator and pas pump mounts, but all i did was take a corner of the h22 pas mount and the f20b6 alternator mount bolts straight in! Using the h22 pas mount and pump you can just have the main pressure pipe joined onto the accords pipe! Over this weekend i will hopefully get round to making a thread with plenty of pictures! Roll on summer too, looking forward to joining everyone at the meets!
 
Congrats on the swap Paul! Sounds like it was a bit of a hardship :lol: But worth it in the end though. :D
 
Right, finally got back to doing something with my Accord after putting it off for weeks! Released the ball joints earlier in the week and released the drive shafts so the engine was ready to pull today. Glad I did as much engine stripping as I could before it came out, as I pulled it out in no time today :)

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Can't tell you how glad I am to see that out the car! Feeling properly motivated now :) tomorrow I need to swap the front engine mount out as it's damaged, and start on the wiring. There's lots of space now at least!

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Had fun getting the ECU out, it has an anti tamper screw, which I could not remove even with a metal service key! Had to break the saw out in the end :lol:

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Next on the list is remove the whole dash - has anyone else done this?? I'm having a nightmare! I've undone everything I can see and even more stuff I couldn't at first but it's still not shifting!
 
Much respect for the amount of work that you're putting into this swap dude!!! At the end you really are going to end up with something truely unique. And that is a win!

Not envious of the amount of wiring you're soon going to have to do though :lol: :lol:
 
Cheers mate :) I'm not even close yet but I've been putting this off too long and it's time to get myself back into it!

Yeah the wiring is going to suck :( I have everything I need as the bloke I bought the engine from chucked in every loom from the car. The problem is I have a ton of wiring I don't need :lol: Tomorrow's job is to trace every wire back from the engine and determine what it connects to - if it connects to the ECU that's great but if not I have to find out what it should connect to and then figure out where to splice into the Accord's wiring. I'm not looking forward to it!

The thought that keeps me going is exactly what you say though - at the end of this I will have a car that's unique to me :) Also looking forward to once it's done and I can start getting it out to meets!
 
I still haven't finished the swap so at the moment it feels like I have a car with no interior and an engine half lodged in the bay :lol: working at it this weekend though so hopefully get some more done - I need to get the block in, drive shafts on, ball joints connected and wheels on ASAP as I'm moving house shortly!!
 
Right, time for an update!

Lots of manual labour done today - I had no help from friends so had to fit the block on my own!

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My back kills bit it's in the bay at least. The rear mount still needs bolting up, however that's definitely a 2 man job as someone needs to pull the engine forwards whilst another does the bolt up. Also, there is no way to fit a mount on the passenger side - I'm going to have to get a custom mount made I guess. Next I hooked up the gear selector cables, after all this time of the car being broken it feels really weird to be able to change gear lol. I also fitted the actuator for the clutch - the one fitted to the H22A doesn't connect to the piping of the Accord - lucky I couldnt be bothered to scrap my old engine, otherwise I'd be missing a fair few parts I needed!!

After getting the new block settled, I couldn't help but put the new manifold in situ for a sneak peak of things to come...

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I'm really motivated again, can't wait to get this build done. I really loved driving my Accord, and I'm looking forward to getting back behind the wheel with a bit more power :)
 
Repect for doing on your own, its the best way to learn, and fully understand the compatibly. I am suprised about the engine mount though, these engines bolt straight in a 4th gen, yet a 6th gen is able to hold a type r engine, which is mounting wise the same as a prelude version.

What gear box are you going to run?
 
The passenger side mounts are fairly different - I'm cheating a little as I have a JDM 4th Gen Prelude to look at when I'm stumped :p the Prelude uses a fluid filled mount on the passenger side where it joins the chassis, on the Accord it's just a rubber mount. Both these have different stud patterns on the chassis side. I looked at swapping the mounts over on the engine side as I did on the gearbox, however the mounts are also incompatible on this side. The only conclusion I can come to is that as I'm using a H22A the mounts must be different to that of later engines such as the H22A5 from a UK Prelude 5th Gen or H22A7 from an ATR. this might also explain why the H22A goes directly into the earlier Accords with no problems, they may use the same mounts as the 4th Gen Prelude. Between the UK and JDM Preludes there have been about 5 or 6 different H series engines iirc which may explain any variations.

I have an M2A4 currently, which is the non LSD. I eventually plan to run an M2B4 in the Accord, just to give it something special over the Prelude. Have considered FI too, but tbh the H22A is probably the wrong choice for that. Plus I haven't even got the H22A running yet :lol:
 
wow that looks amazing mate, really enjoying this thread. Do keep a detailed diary with loads of pics and comments.

Respect to you on this. If you was closer I would come down and help you bro.
 
Dude that looks amazing!!! Is the block an H22A5 yeah?

With regard to the mount it might be worth calling hond-r and seeing if they can sell you something that will help. With the extra power from the H series you'll be needing another mount. :lol: B)
 
Nice going!
It's going to be AWESOME :D
I'd probably have given up after trying to get rid of all of the liquid in the system :lol:
 
Cheers guys, feels good to finally be making some progress again, now the new block is in it feels like I'm on the home straight - although with the amount of wiring ahead of me I'm really not :lol: nice to see the block in there, the DOHC block looks great in there I think :)

luvmyaccord said:
Dude that looks amazing!!! Is the block an H22A5 yeah?

With regard to the mount it might be worth calling hond-r and seeing if they can sell you something that will help. With the extra power from the H series you'll be needing another mount. :lol: B)
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Nope, I almost bought a H22A5 but I thought it wouldn't be enough of a power increase to warrant the money, so I got a H22A which is from a 4th Gen JDM Prelude. I did want a H22A7/8 but they're both crazy money, cheaper to get a new car!! If you look at the block sitting in the car it's really apparent I need that extra mount lol, the block leans to the passenger side a bit :s Can Hond-r fab up custom mounts then? I think that's the only option I have really
 
I dont see why not. They're the company that I was gonna use to do my transplant. I bought a type r in the end, but they really know their stuff.
 
Well, some good news and some bad news.

Good news is with the help of my dad and one of my brothers I got the rear mount done up, so now it's held at the back, front and gearbox. Just got to reconnect the driveshafts and do up the ball joints and she should be rolling again.

Bad news - my bonnet wasn't watertight and the plenum chamber wasn't fitted to the inlet manifold. All the runners have filled up with water up to the butterfly plate :( I'm getting a pump syphon tomorrow and hopefully I can save it :(

On another note, the ball joints spin as I try to put them on. Is there a method for doing them up? I'm contemplating replacing them too but I've heard it's a massive effort so not too sure, has anyone here done it at home?
 
Good(ish) news!!

Bought a pump siphon yesterday and went to drain the engine today. Decided to drain from the cylinders as this would be the lowest point water could reach. Pulled the HT leads so I could get my siphon in, and cylinder by cylinder, it came out bone dry! Moved on to draining the inlet manifold, and it looks like not all the runners had a lot of water spill in them - I can only guess the ones that had the most water run in them had the valves shut. As for the others, I think as the H series leans back in the engine bay, and they didn't get much water spill in, the water did pool high enough to run in the valves. I'm going to provisionally say the engine is not ruined :lol: I'm keeping my fingers crossed!
 
Errrrr, good luck dude. Hope everythings still alright inside. Might be worth getting the engine pressure tested mate.
 
luvmyaccord said:
Errrrr, good luck dude. Hope everythings still alright inside. Might be worth getting the engine pressure tested mate.
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I've got a compression tester lying around from the Golf somewhere, I was thinking it might be worth trying to get the motor running ASAP to see if any damage has been done :( I'm scared to turn it over with the possibility of any water in there though, otherwise bye bye bottom end and god knows what else. The other problem is I have 3 cars at my house atm, and the Accord is at my parents. I don't have a drive so it can't come up here, I have to leave it there until it's roadworthy. If the engine is totaled from this then I'll probably end up scrapping it as I can't dump it on my parents for much longer. If we can move somewhere with a drive and garage in the next few months (which is the current plan) then I might try and get a DOHC F22A and put that in instead for the turbo potential.

Fingers crossed it won't come to any of that though, and I'll have gotten away with being an idiot and letting the rain get in. Btw has anyone got any ideas for drying the inside of the inlet manifold out? I might just have to pull it from the engine which will be an absolute ball ache :(
 
A hairdryer held in place will work. WIll take a while, but it will work.

Get the lump running, then get it tested mate. Otherwise it could be a disaster.
 
Yeah I am quite worried still, should of seen me when I first saw it though, cue epic swearing on the drive :lol:

I had a nightmare the night after I saw what happened, I dreamt I drove my Accord through a flooded section of road as I thought I could make it, but the water was too high and the car got stuck and flooded :( obviously this has cut me deep :lol:
 
I think the safest is to remove the intake manifold, which must be quite a headache...

If you do remove it, then you can also look inside the cylinder and dry it better.
 
I reckon stripping the engine down might be the best bet.
Just wouldn't take the risk and it's easier now that the engine is out.
Hope you get it sorted mate. Do keep us all updated.
 
I didn't read everything, but have a suggestion. As I understood there is water in cylinders. I hope you didn't turn crankshaft yet. If so then fill some brake fluid into every cylinder. or some other oil so it could lubricate/remove all rust inside cylinder chamber. After day or two turn cranksaft, spark plugs removed, so Engine could take all oil out. It always helps. I'm doing so all the time when I'm leaving car for very long time in garage :)
 
If you think you may have water in the cylinder the first time you turn it over leave the spark plugs out. That way the water will get blown out and not bend the bottom of your engine.
 
That might be a great idea, turn the engine a couple of times without the spark-plugs and probably with the fuel pump fuse out, so you won't "drown" the engine with petrol.
It might also be a good idea to remove or disconnect the ignition coil, to be sure it will not be damaged by running the engine without the spark-plugs.
 
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