I have had a good load of chuckles reading this thread, having seen stuff that varies from nebulous to factually incorrect. Anyway, a reply to a few quotes ...
ToothlessDrunk said:
So , is this map worth £300 quid , if I spent £300 would I feel it was money well spent or will I wish I had only spent £200 .
I agree mate, these cars aren't worth much more than £2k in real terms, and I don't see the point in spending well over 10% of the value of the car on something that doesn't give 10% improvement. In the original thread that Steve locked, in #65, I said "overall, that gives about 10% increase in acceleration": and that is it, all the rest about "rev hang" and "dbw lag" and "mpg improvement" were also discussed in the locked thread.
FYI: I bought my CM2 in January 2006 with 12k on the clock. If the reflash had been available back then for £300 I would have had it done. Even 3 years ago I would have considered it. But on a 10-year-old car with 97k miles on the clock, it would be plain stupid. The £300 is better saved as money towards a newer model (e.g. Brett's) or even a different marque (Focus ST). As a foot note that makes the point about the proven way to go, even Honda will be going to Turbo FSI in the future.
littlebo said:
Insurers don't have dynos and no any service or inspection can find out the reflash since its based on oem FW. . I'm not shure if keeping silence is against the law or something like that, we don't have such practice here, if so, then it's better to inform em, if you don't have to tell about that margin mod - just smile then ). anyway, I always advice to drive safely and take care bout all other ppl on the road.
they might not bother where you are, but in this country, if death or serious injury occurs, then it is likely that insurers will get an ECU checked, see my #139 in the original thread that Steve locked
littlebo said:
3700 is exactly what Brian calculated and what I see in mfactory calc. 4500 in 1-2 gear shift we see with stock revs, with reflash it's close to 5k. discussion was hot and I thought a lot about that effect and I guess it's not a sensor lag or bug. it's more like engine torque is big enough to push clutch to slip a lil and wheels are also slip slightly at hard shifting, that bumps revs and they aren't equal to real speed. I'm gonna catch MT car and record few hi res logs to look more deep in this effect coz timeframe is too short to judje this by taho readings.
Thanks for support and info !
Just before Steve locked the other thread, I sent the following 3 points in a pm to several people about this, including Steve
1. If you drive slowly up to 7000 in 1st and change into 2nd slowly, speed is 32 mph (34 on the speedo) @ 3700 rpm when change complete.
2. If you do it at WOT up to 7000 in 1st and yank it into 2nd quickly (rapid down-up of clutch and up-down of accelerator), speed is 39 mph (41 on the speedo) @ 4500 rpm when the change is complete.
3. If you do it at WOT up to 7000 in 1st and yank it into 2nd quickly (rapid down-up of clutch but leave accelerator up) speed is now 35 mph (37 on the speedo) @ 4000.rpm when change is complete.
Another thing that simulates point 2, is to drive "slowly" up to 3700 in 2nd, then simultaneously put your foot down on the clutch simultaneously followed by foot down on the accelerator pedal, then dump the clutch back, and the car leaps forward from 3700 to 4500 (do it with VSA-off else the ECU may reduce fuelling to counter and wheel-spin depending on road surface, but on a good dry road the wheels do not spin). The spinning masses of pistons and flywheel in a 2.4 engine are enough to give an impulse of momentum. You can do this on any car by the way, at any revs usually best past mid-range, it's an old trick.
So all that you guys are doing on a quick gear change at WOT, is a "clutch dump" acceleration.
F6HAD said:
I get it mate and actually agree with you. I also don't spend a lot of time arguing with dyno plots as it's not as objective as people think and comparing one plot to another from a different dyno tells you nothing but that it's two plots from different dynos.
My point is just around showing the effect of the remap without mods and then build it up, both on the same car under the same climatic conditions etc and on the same dyno.
It will take some effort but then you will have a good reference point to refer people to who are interested in your product and you may also find some tweaks you can make to your map to improve it further.
AB-SO-LUTELY
edit:
Finally, a "synonym". I spent £30 the other day on steel strings for my £200 Flamenco guitar. I went into the bathroom and it was a lot louder, and I could even play "oranges and lemons" in the style of Jimi Hendrix. I put the original nylon strings back, and it was not as loud, and it could not be played like Jimi Hendrix.