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WHEEL WOBBLE

BTW - fresh driveshafts has all but cured it on my car.
Still has a tiny vibration at those speeds which is only noticeable if I look for it. Because I still need to change the intermediate driveshaft, as that has a little wear too.

Fitted Blueprint driveshafts, but I think I need to go to Honda and weigh them out more cash than I'd like for the intermediate shaft.
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
BTW - fresh driveshafts has all but cured it on my car.
Still has a tiny vibration at those speeds which is only noticeable if I look for it. Because I still need to change the intermediate driveshaft, as that has a little wear too.

Fitted Blueprint driveshafts, but I think I need to go to Honda and weigh them out more cash than I'd like for the intermediate shaft.
Click to expand...
thanks matt
had a friend drive my car yesterday took up to 50mph+ and its started doing its thing but give him no clue what i thought it was.. he said feels like the n/s wheel trying to come off the hub exactly what it feels like to me
been wrong before but feels far to heavy a wobble for a drive shaft i never had a car do this before its crazy


try to get the engine mount off today but became unstuck on the single bolt side (bodywork side) the captive nut broke off the bottom its not a nut its round with not much to get a hold of so managed to tighten it back up wire brushed the threads and oiled it going to have a another go tomorrow
new tyres going on this week will keep you informed
thanks
 
I know what you mean about the rattle. It's horrific. As if the track rod ends aren't attached,
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
BTW - fresh driveshafts has all but cured it on my car.
Still has a tiny vibration at those speeds which is only noticeable if I look for it. Because I still need to change the intermediate driveshaft, as that has a little wear too.

Fitted Blueprint driveshafts, but I think I need to go to Honda and weigh them out more cash than I'd like for the intermediate shaft.
Click to expand...

I have just done the same, two new driveshafts blueprint and the 20mph shake in 2nd remains.I have replaced the intermediate shaft with a used one, and although smoother, I knew the bearing had play in it, just not as bad as my original

Just awaiting seal and circlips from Holdcroft to go with the bearing I've bought via ebay ,and Ill get them installed on my original half shaft this week, and it will be going back on.

I may have an intermediate shaft for sale for a mk7 diesel in the not too distant future if your'e interested.
 
The tiny judder in mine is from the slack between the splines on the intermediate shaft and the new driveshaft.
It's only noticeable if I look for it, and then I have to take my hands off the steering wheel to find it.
Fitting a used shaft will never solve the problem, it needs a new one.
 
UPDATE
two new goodyears put on the front no different
top engine mount replaced no different
going to replace gearbox mount next is it easy to get to and replace ?
thanks
 
It's quite accessible from under wing, and the top once the airbox is out the way.

Unless it's torn, it's probably not worth doing though.
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
It's quite accessible from under wing, and the top once the airbox is out the way.

Unless it's torn, it's probably not worth doing though.
Click to expand...
cheers Matt i am hoping its ripped to shreds TBH ha ha
 
I still reckon it's driveshafts. Mine rattled like hell.
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
I still reckon it's driveshafts. Mine rattled like hell.
Click to expand...
if the bottom mount is ok its got to be the driveshafts as there will be nothing else left!!
but there's no rattles, knocks, clicks ,bangs , just the wobble
thanks
 
Yep, sounds about right. It's the slack on the splines.
It makes it as if you're just pumping the throttle loads as the slack causes interruptions in the drive as they wobble.
 
Goodluckmonkey said:
Yep, sounds about right. It's the slack on the splines.
It makes it as if you're just pumping the throttle loads as the slack causes interruptions in the drive as they wobble.
Click to expand...
so whats best way of testing for slack jacked up and turn the road wheel ?
thanks
 
You need to have both the half shaft and the pot for the offside driveshaft if your hands and twist them relative to each other. You'll barely see it, but you'll feel it.

Car in the air, undertray off.
 
you were right Matt checked driveshafts today loads of play on n/s one.. the o/s not so bad so i have ordered one getting it on monday from eurocarparts £102 will be fitted tuesday

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/16105-guess-the-problem-and-repair-cost/
found this old thread starts like this,,,,,,,,

So my 2004 2.4 Honda Accord Estate has a significant wobble under acceleration from 40-70mph +... When not accelerating the car rides nice and smoothly..
just like mine and turns out to be driveshafts just like mine is
thanks lads
 
Cool. Hope it does the trick.
 
I just wang it up tight.
Think it's meant to be something like a zillion lb ft.


(About 185 lb ft from memory)
 
hi all put new driveshaft on one side today other going on at week end
just like to know should any transmission oil have ran out when i took out inter pot joint ?? and how do u check level /?
cheers
 
I drained the oil in mine as the n/s goes straight into the diff casing.
Think it was 2.1 litres or something to refill. Says in the handbook.
 
i have done the n/s and no oil ran out as i thought it would have do u think there's not enough oil in ??
and how can u check it?
cheers
 
No idea if the level should be above the bottom of the driveshaft hole or not.

The best way of knowing is to dump the oil, then add the correct grade and amount. Could be any amount of anything in there otherwise.

I just did mine while I was there as I had a crunchy gearbox when I got the car, so i swapped the oil out and it got better.

Just done the second PAS flush too as the steering used to pulse, as well as the second gearbox oil, and everything's sweet now.
The first oil change never removes all the crud accumulated in 150k. Still amazes me that sometimes these things never get changed.
 
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willcook1275gt said:
i have done the n/s and no oil ran out as i thought it would have do u think there's not enough oil in ??
and how can u check it?
cheers
Click to expand...
​Before you drain the gearbox oil, make sure you can remove the FILL plug first , or you're gonna struggle filling it back up ( look down the back of the battery and you will see it ,it has a 3/8 in square opening in its center ), you can use a 3/8 extension bar if you don't have any male gearbox plug sockets.I recommend the gearbox plug sockets.It can be removed with enough extensions without taking the battery off etc..

You will need the same arrangement for the gearbox DRAIN plug on the underside to remove it as well, again I recommend using the gearbox plug socket, as opposed to just a 3/8 plain end of an extension bar..
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jsil2p.jpg


Just ABOVE the DRAIN plug slightly to the right, there is a 10mm bolt, this is the fill level bolt hole.Take this 10mm bolt out after you have drained all the gearbox oil out, and re fitted the drain plug ready to fill it back up.

​With the car on a level surface the gearbox oil is at the correct level when the oil stops running from this 10mm bolt hole.
​When it does, put the 10mm bolt back in nip it up, then nip the fill plug back up, and you're done.
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​If you overfill the gearbox, it will blow out from the driveshaft oil seal, which will then have to be replaced, which of course means pulling the driveshaft out again.
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​TJ
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ok fitted the 2rd driveshaft now both new and its fixed no wobble am over the moon
thanks to all who said driveshafts but i wanted to do all the easy fixes 1st but only cause they never clicked knocked banged or made any other noises
o/s CV was rusted into the spines on the hub had to use a 3 legged puller to get it off tighten hit with hammer about 10 times nightmare !!!
going to change gearbox oil next thanks Ron and Matt
 
Great news. Well done mate.
 
Its pleasing when you do a good repair.
Glad you got sorted.
 
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