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2.4 type s tourer boot lid

yeah that makes sense

So it definitely is the clutch, QED

It really is excellent news, I'll have to do mine ...soon-ish :D


edit: I really hate Honda dealers now, they should have known and should have told me, I've had the *!*!*-ing car since 2006 and IIRC the tailgate first started playing up round about 2009 and just got worse over the years. It's not just that, it's the cost of other things, Honda dealers are just stealers like all the rest.
 
Obviously I've got the complete spare unit now. However missing a few circlips(on the garage floor) and I'd never sell the unit as the design is prone to letting grease in and knowing the ball ache of a job it is I wouldn't wish it upon anyone. So if anyone needs any parts for the motor ***embly if you break anything then cover the postage and it's yours!
 
Haha I expect your tailgate working next weekend! All in with the guide I'd allow 2 hours but get yourself some really small circlip pliers
 
I reckon that Honda UK probably didn't pay full labour price to the dealers for doing this i.e. a dealer only got cost price, so no profit for them, the car takes up space in their garage while it's being done, so bollox to the customer.
 
Haha whatever the key fob switches we just need to repeat that. I might just sellotape my spare key to the dash!!
 
adam123 said:
Haha whatever the key fob switches we just need to repeat that. I might just sellotape my spare key to the dash!!
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IIRC the tailgate will not open using the spare keyfob when the other one is in the ignition.

It's annoying that there is not even an input from the remote button shown on the tailgate ECU circuit diagram
 
Please excuse the stupidity but is there a control unit/receiver that deals with the key fob and then decides what you have pressed or is each button press directly switching what you've asked?
 
Interesting question

The main lock/unlock receiver is in the "door multiplex control unit" which gets the "multiplex integrated control unit" (MICU) to check the status of all doors/trunk/hood (doors/boot/bonnet) and to lock/unlock the doors.

However there is no indication of how the boot/trunk (saloon) or tailgate (tourer) are remotely opened, although there is a circuit diagram for the saloon which shows a "trunk lid opener solenoid" connected to the MICU, and since there is no "boot/trunk ECU" on the saloon, it seems reasonable that the "boot/trunk remote" on the saloon is operated in similar manner to the way the door lock/unlock works i.e. via the MICU

So for the tourer .... there is no circuit diagram showing a link from the MICU to the tailgate-ECU, which I would expect for the tourer since the MICU does operate the "trunk lid opener solenoid" on the saloon ....unless there is a receiver inside the tailgate-ECU.

My money goes on a link from MICU to tailgate-ECU, which has not been included in the 5-door (tourer) circuit diagrams.

Even the tailgate-ECU is missing from this schematic of the bus-system in the car, even though the tailgate-ECU can be read using the HDS (HDS plugs into the MICU on the OBD port). I'm not implying that the MICU and tailgate-ECU chat to one another on the bus system, just using the schematic to illustrate the units on the car, and the fact that the tailgate-ECU is missing. In reality, IMO it would be a single wire from MICU to tailgate-ECU to tell the tailgate-ECU to open/close the tailgate (just as with the "trunk solenoid" in the saloon)



CANbus_units_1.jpg
 
Where is the micu located? You could literally break into that single core keeping it parrarell and then just find a local 12v (***uming 12v) to fire the relay. I wonder wether it would work with the key in the ignition? I wonder if it's just the key that is disabled because it's in the barrell or if that command it's self just isn't possible with the ignition turned on.
 
The MICU is behind, and built into, the under-dash fuse-box.

It will either be the DMCU or the MICU that decides whether the conditions are ok before the command to open the tailgate is given.

If the command is a wire (logical 0V or 12V), then best bet would be to route that wire via a new relay, set the other relay contact to the logic of "open", then fit a switch that toggles the relay i.e. relay "off" routes the existing command wire, relay "on" routes the "open" logic. The danger of that is that it would be possible to open the tailgate while driving :eek:

If I am right about there being an in-car lever for the tailgate in the 8th gen, then it would in effect be on an input to the DMCU or the MICU ....whether that input exists on the 7th gen is anyone's guess :lol:
 
Can't quite understand that to be honest?
Might be too early

My thoughts where literally splice into the command cable and the put a 12v feed down it. However i imagine the 12v feed only lasts for a set number of seconds?
 
electronic circuits often don't like the opposite voltage going back into their output :eek:

closest ****ogy to electrical power would be splicing a blue phase into a wire when the wire was carrying red phase
 
Ahhh I see. Well if you can figure out what cable needs what I'll give it a go.
 
Only way I'll know is to cross-check the wires on the various plugs, with the circuit diagrams ... and I do expect to find at least one extra wire. I might remove the entire head-lining to do that, I hate messing about with wires in cramped spaces :blink:
 
I mean are we just being silly? You could pull the key out of the ignition and then open the boot. You won't often need the engine running and the boot open.

Unless you're robbing a bank perhaps!
 
finaly finaly the struts arrived long story please dont ask :angry: So I fitted the new struts and guess what it worked my tailgate goes up without any help from me :eek: .I have to admit there is still a grunching sound as it starts to open so its still possable the clutch is on its way out

So we have 2 for 2 a clutch fix and a strut fix whos will last the longest time will tell I kind of feel the cluch will win this due to the fact as I said before there is still a grunching as the tailgate starts to open

info if you ever change the struts the N/S (left) strut is longer than the O/S (right) strut if you get the honda struts they are marked
 
Good stuff pal! Well hopefully my struts don't go anytime soon.

How many times have you tested the tailgate? I got bored after 20!
 
The beep is rather annoying, but it has its purpose. I've set it open before now and nearly hit people walking past in a car park. The heap alerted them to it and they just missed it. Needless to say I apologised for scare, but I guess there's probably a law governing moving parts like this and hazard warnings when it's being built/designed.

Then again, I'm sure there's got to be a way to find what makes the beep and cut the wires ;)
 
Stevearcade said:
The heap alerted them to it and they just missed it. Needless to say I apologised for scare
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Steve !!! how can you refer to our cars as a "heap" :lol: :lol: :lol:
 
:lol: Gotta love autocorrect!
 
I didnt even know you could open boot with key fob i can,t even open mine with the boot handle , it only opens by pulling the leaver on the drivers floor .any ideas .ty
 
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