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IMRC / EGR Valve

HI mate - done as above and when rev'd you see the movement - seems fine.

The reason I disconnected the FSV was because for some people it run better once disconnected (suppose I was clutching at straws)!

Would you say FSV solenoid is my next port of call ?? OR as it moves does that mean solenoid is ok? (sorry to sound thick!)

I've got a turbo boost solenoid from a breakers on its way - £20 - thought as it was cheap enough may try that also!
 
Well, if you see the FSV moving the butterfly that's certainly a plus! We don't know if it's responding correctly, though, you'd need a HDS for that.

Since you've an EVR on the way, I'd try that, but you are not getting an boost errors (P1237 or 1238) reported, so I'm not convinced about this. Give it a go though! You don't know anyone with a iCTDi willing to do a test swap do you? :blush:
 
Carl - bring it over to Halifax, I'll stick it on the HDS for £30. That way we can isolate each component individually and put you out of your misery.
 
I think I will Faddy! Just got this boost pressure sensor (arrived today) to try and then thats me done with it (spent so much time on it) the engine cover and airbox has been off more than on!!

I'll try this over next few days and if no joy - I'll look to come over next week.
 
Update

Tried changing turbo boost valve - no change.
Tried cleaning air pressure sensor (again) just in case I didn't get it cleaned properly last time - no change.

Took it to get some tyres fitted yesterday and the mechanic said it sounds like it's only running on 3 or 2 cylinders? Anything I can do to check this?

I've also acquired a FSV - which should come in a few days so I can deffo rule that one out.

But a question I have - would the FSV (if faulty) make the car seem like it was only running on 3/2 cylinders?? And is there anything I can do to diagnose myself ?

After the FSV - will be off to Faddy - although I've enjoyed messing about with the car (and I do know it pretty well by now) I'm tearing my hair out!!
 
Bump
rolleyes.gif
 
Whoa - only spotting this now.

The FSV controls the overall effective length of the intake runner. In essence it controls the "ease" with which air is drawn in and it's turbulence. It is fed from air from the turbo and exhaust from the EGR where mixing occurs. If the FSV sticks you are less efficient and you get hesitation.

If it sounds iike cylinders are not firing then this is unlikely to be the FSV. You'll need to get injector, leak back, etc tested.

If you get get it on a HDS diagnostics can be run that will point to where the fault could be
 
Update -Was going to go to Faddy but due to the car's lack of power thought better of it (as it really struggles up hills!).

Bit the bullet and took to Honda (£51) for them to ***ess (which now seems like I know no more than before!) See below -

They have highlighted fault codes P1237, P0403 and P2008 - but will require detailed inspection to pinpoint faults.

They tell me I need:-
a new exhaust manifold (£750) - It's been like this since 90k (now 235k)
EGR Valve - £744.50
IMRC Valve - £165.75
All plus VAT AND Labour

As per previous messages I have swapped the EGR over, but have read that the P1237 could be caused by fuel filter?? Although changed last year (Genuine from HH).

I will (when I get a minute) try blanking the EGR off temporarily to see what effect that has.

But if anyone can offer any more advice I'd really appreciate it - as it's getting close to the point where I end up scrapping the car (as good as it has been!!)

Cheers
Carl
 
P1237 is a turbo boost problem - unlikely to be caused by the fuel filter. More that likely the EVR is the problem.... see my post above #32 :) If the boost is causing a problem, then you'll get P0403 and P2008.

The EGR valve that you have is good.
 
Ta Jason. I have the denso 446 vacuum valve which I have never got around to changing (am I right in ***uming this is the EVR)? Sorry to sound thick but I've had so many bits on and off over time I've forgotten where Im up to!!

Edit - I did change the EVR but no joy - but not the FSV (denso 446) - Its all coming back to me now!!!
 
EVR is at the rear, FSV is at the front. Can't remember which one is the Denso 446.

The EVR is used to control the level of boost provided by the turbo. When actuated the pitch of the vanes within the turbo are adjusted. This coupled with the speed/pressure of the exhaust gases controls the amount of air (or boost) presented to the intake manifold. The FSV then controls the IMRC, which is a valve that extends or shortens the run of the boosted air into the intake, leading to a variable long/short intake path.

So your first error is P1237 this tells you that you have a boost problem and is the first culprit. It is detected by the Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor and this sensors says the boost pressure is wrong. This then hits the IMRC and is insufficient so the ECU thinks that the IMRC valve isn't behaving (hence P2004).

Well that's the theory anyway :)
 
Response to your edit.

If the FSV isn't actuating the IMRC correctly then the path through the intake will be too short/long meaning that the pressure won't be right either. The FSV only takes 15 mins to change.
 
Just edited my previous post - I did change the EVR (rear) but no change - Its the FSV (front) that I haven't got around to doing yet.

Do you think the MAP sensor could be faulty?
 
CarlStew72 said:
Do you think the MAP sensor could be faulty?
Click to expand...
MAP sensor *could* be fault, but I'd start with the common failure points first. The MAP is a pretty tough bugger.
 
Carl I think they've just confirmed what I've been telling you, blank off the egr valve.. I don't think standard egr off will work but if we add our manual error delete it will be fine.

I believe those codes relate to low boost and egr circuit malfunctions.
 
Sorry I've just missed a whole page there on my phone it seems. Also try Jay's advice, seems sound to me although i would be surprised if Honda missed the map as a possible culprit
 
Cheers Jason/Faddy - Just quickly changed the FSV and no change whatsoever - will deffo do the EGR blank (wheres that tin opener!) when I've got a min (maybe tomorrow evening and report back). Faddy -when blanked I take it a few errors will get thrown up, but car should run better if culprit?
 
Physically blanking the EGR valve will result in a Diagnostic Trouble Code being generated (because the MAF will fail to reduce when EGR is requested) and the engine management system going into 'limp' mode (= restricted RPM and power). So it may well be hard to spot any potential improvement?

But if Fahad does it the DTC will be supressed in the map.
 
OK Jon,
So you are saying I wouldn't see any improvement - it would just go into limp mode?

Faddy - if thats the case how will I know if the EGR is the culprit (although we are sure it's ok!)?
 
You'll feel the power return although it might not rev past 2k rpm
 
Have a chat with Ray (luckyboy) he had this very problem recently and his egr even passed the test on the hds.. But blanking it off solved it.
 
Update Time! - I just blanked the EGR off and the car is exactly the same (no power whatsoever) it does get to speed (eventually!) - But no engine management lights came on/limp mode etc as I was expecting?

Where next guys? (Please don't say scrap yard!)
 
Carl did you speak to Ray about where exactly to blank it off? You should get a warning light if done correctly
 
I'm not sure myself as physically blanking them is not something I do myself. If you're not getting an error, normally P1401 EGR insufficient flow, then you've not done it right
 
I blanked the right hand one first (rectangular) - no change to car, left that blank on and also blanked left hand port (round) - then I had orange engine management light on and won't rev over 2k, As i don't drive car regularly but will await feedback from the Mrs tomorrow - but still seemed poor and juddery?

Would it make any difference with both ports being blanked off (I mean should I try again with the rectangular one removed?) or should it make no difference?
 
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