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Intake manifold and EGR cleaning on i-CTDi

F6HAD said:
Carl did you use a genuine MAF? Where did you get it from?
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Sorry Fahad,

Must have missed this post.

Yep genuine Bo***, I got it from that place I mentioned a little while ago.

I noticed the MPG increased on the computer, still haven't done a full tank fill-up check the accurate way and compare back to the computer, which prior was 3 - 5 mpg out.


I wouldn't say that the old MAF was totally shot, as you may remember I had an issue when re-starting the car whilst warm the initial drive off was a little less refined than I expect and equally I could never quite totally get rid of the one little hiccup whilst it was just warming up.. As the issue seemed to be with temperature I suspected one of the temps sensors, one is incorporated within the MAF sensor and one within the MAP sensor. As mentioned previously in other posts I have suspected the MAP sensor and in particular the temp sensor incorporated within it, I have a genuine one on order with the same place, however Bo*** seem to have delayed things slightly and it is not expected until 1st June.
I decided to change the MAF as I could get that, more to rule it out, this is when I noticed that MPG was increased, power delivery was smoother. I remember reading that MAF sensors generally last around 60k.

I managed to source a used genuine Bosch MAP sensor on fleabay and for the price it was worth the punt to see if and what changed, so I cleaned the part up on Friday and fitted it this Saturday. I'm still in the ECU re-learning period but so far so good, non-of the symptoms have yet appeared, so see how it goes this week.
 
Excellent stuff Carl - all your hard work and diagnostics will surely help everyone else.

Keep us posted :)
 
Looks very promising Carl, I am eager to hear from you :). Was thinking about replacing MAF again, but its not possible for now. New MAP sensor is pretty dear as well but as you say you found one on fleabay I will have a look as well.
Keep up informed, dan
 
Still looking good so far

Certainly out of the ECU re-learning, done a few shortish journeys where I would generally notice at the beginning of starting off some general unevenness, but so far nothing. MPG still good

Hope I'm not tempting fate posting this!
 
Mate Ive got my fingers crossed for you B)
 
Yello guys.
Today Hot Fuzz (Paul) came to my place and we had a go at his cars intake manifold pieces. EGR was cleaned, butterfly valve, MAP, and some other bits as well. We had a talk about taking the whole intake manifod out, but that requires a bit more reading and preparation. Seems quite straightforward but we think it may require us to remove fuel lines to get to the bolts/nuts that hold the manifold in place. Here a some pics:

MAP - sorry, bit fuzzy ma camera decided to focus on the egr pipe in the background :unsure:
IMG_0215.jpg


MAP housing
IMG_0214.jpg


Manifold inlet? from the butterfly valve side
IMG_0213.jpg


EGR - not bad same as mine I think
IMG_0218.jpg


Butterfly valve itself
IMG_0212.jpg


As you can see these were quite gunked up, but we manage to clean them all. The worrying thing is the manifold itself, there is a lot of the oily stuff still inside...
Anyway, Pauls car still runs ok I was very relieved to hear it it working order ;)

Btw. I spend some time in Pauls car and he drove mine and we came to conclusion mine isnt as quick as it should be. For a car that is not remapped, Pauls Honda pulls strongly and I can bet it would be much quicker than mine if put back to standard.
Dan
 
Cheers for the photo's Dan and for the ***istance today I'll do some research into removing the inlet manifold. It def needs cleaning out.
 
oooooooohhhhhhhhhhhh that was grubby.
 
nice and clean now B) how long that it take you bud from start to finish?
 
gathor said:
Btw. I spend some time in Pauls car and he drove mine and we came to conclusion mine isnt as quick as it should be. For a car that is not remapped, Pauls Honda pulls strongly and I can bet it would be much quicker than mine if put back to standard.
Dan
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Hey Dan, great pics there and sounds like you're really getting to know your engine!

There may actually be an underlying problem then. Why don't you put your car back to stock and then do a like for like comparison. If you've lost your factory software, I've probably got it archived.
 
I know is not for a diesel engine do but i had to do the same to mine also! But since is not petrol i don´t have the oily deposits!

Nice write-up, i used carburetor cleaner! I will end up cancelling it anyways!
 
Hot Fuzz said:
Cheers for the photo's Dan and for the ***istance today I'll do some research into removing the inlet manifold. It def needs cleaning out.
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No worries mate, I am happy to help. It took us much less time than me when doing it for the first time, I think I spend around 5 hrs o mine :)
You get that info about inlet manifold and I will gather as much as possible and then we will have a go :D (gotta send my wife for holiday first, just in case you need to tow me to honda dealer )

F6HAD said:
Hey Dan, great pics there and sounds like you're really getting to know your engine!

There may actually be an underlying problem then. Why don't you put your car back to stock and then do a like for like comparison. If you've lost your factory software, I've probably got it archived.
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Faddy, I know there must be something not entirely right with my car. I suspect one of the sensors, MAP, MAF, IRMC. I got my original map and remap on my laptop somwhere, its just the case of finding the galletto tool :D. As to the engine I am trying to learn as much as I can about it, the downside is I am learning on my own engine so if anything goes wrong my wife is going to kill me. Simple as that :D
Anyway, once I move in to my new place and sort everything out I will let you know Paul.
Dan
 
Good luck matey - rather you than me :lol: never again!
 
Well if you need your standard software, I'll dig it out so just let me know and good luck with the move!!
 
gathor said:
Not as of yet.
Anyway here comes the EGR. Remove the air box first. EGR is very easy to remove, there are two nuts you have to undo and one bolt. All 12mm. Next thing is to remove the two bolts that hold the pipe that goes into EGR. Once again you will need 12mm socket to do that. Here a pic of EGR before dismantling:

1.jpg


Manifold once EGR is removed:

3.jpg


and EGR

2.jpg


Small pipe part (removed later, attached to EGR by 4 bolts)

6.jpg


Egr from the bottom,

4.jpg


Now, as you can see there is nothing bad going on here. Just a bit of sooth, none of the sticky oily stuff. Very easy to remove, used a cloth, it came off quickly. I didnt took any of the "after" pics as these would look almost the same as the "before" ones. It is a very quick job, 30-45mins let say. I put it back together, started the car, it worked:)
While doing the EGR I also used the MAF cleaner on my air sensor. You can see the two wires, one with a resistor here:

5.jpg


I sprayed generously inside, cleaned the whole housing as well. Didnt remove the actual sensor, left it as it was.
The question I have is, why it happens that there is that oily stuff near the butterfly valve? I doesnt get burned off, the temperature is too low?
dan
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is it also possible to put a metal plate infront of de egr valve ? then you have clean air in the engine en no egr problems
 
That throws off the engine management system...
 
I too have slight hesitation. When i done my full service today i had a quick look at the inlet and found it to be oil and filthy, my car has done 111k so i have bought all the cleaning stuff and once it arrives i will clean it all up. Upon reading this though that cleaning may not to be enough? Only real results seems to be coming from a MAF change.

Worryingly my mechanic friend put the oily gunk down as a 'possible' turbo failure, a sign the turbo seals are on there way out so leaking oil through. :S
 
I plan to have a go at this since, after a remap, my car has started hesitating while maintaining a speed or gently accelerating.

What did you use to clean these, carb cleaner?
 
ChrisG said:
I plan to have a go at this since, after a remap, my car has started hesitating while maintaining a speed or gently accelerating.

What did you use to clean these, carb cleaner?
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Chris,

yours is probably a facelift model so slightly different

a couple of links for reference of where parts are / look like on the facelift

EGR Facelift

MAF,MAP Cleaning (Facelift)
 
Thanks for the links, I have some brake cleaner so that should do for cleaning but what do I use on the map sensor? MAF cleaner?
 
I have just done mine and suprisingly it was not that grubby, i was expecting conditions similar to that of the OP. I have not done my EGR yet but i will do once it stops raining!

Here are my pics:

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282516_10150765410835171_614140170_20407061_4117887_n.jpg
 
Bit of the inlet which is where i found the mess!

284390_10150765547175171_614140170_20409137_3681509_n.jpg


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205974_10150765548945171_614140170_20409163_7696077_n.jpg


And then upon performing this job i stumbled across some treasure in the engine bay buried at the bottom.....

223637_10150765550540171_614140170_20409173_3133541_n.jpg


:unsure: This is not mine, must have been a previous owner, has this car just over a year lol
 
A couple of things:

Instinctively, having an engine free of gunk must be better, but has anyone seen any tangible improvement for having carried out these procedures? I'm tempted to have a go, if only learn a bit about the way the engine is put together. That said, I wouldn't go to the trouble of cleaning my U-bend unless it was actually causing me a problem.

Second: No one seems to have mentioned resealing the parts removed. Have you fitted new gaskets, bogged them up with paste or re-used the old ones?
 
Hi guys, since I got my 04 CDTI at auction in August I've been a regular visitor to the site and have tried out a few of the tips you have posted, but I think the diesel filter and butterfly v/v cleaning are a must for new owners.

The car drove great apart from slight hesitation when accelerating from cruising speed and fuel starvation at WOT. Mmmmm, diesel filter I reckon is the first port of call. I usually change the fuel filter as soon as I get a new diesel car but without the advice on here I would have bought the cheapest on ebay and then spent a few hours working how to take the old one off!

Thanks to the guides I bought an original Honda filter and set about changing it. To be honest, it's not the simplest of jobs (my previous S60 was off and on in under a minute!) but it's not the hardest job ever once you accept you have to do some stripping out to get to it. The airbox came off, then the primer bulb cover and bulb itself, the pipes were disconnected and and the front securing bolt taken off, at this point the filter carrier was floating about in thin air, whoever did it last time obviously dropped a few fasteners and didn't replace them! So I ended up removing the whole carrier and filter. I took a picture of the orientation of the old filter (Unipart) just to be on the safe side and then swapped old for new. Refitting is actually quite straightforward....(Ahem remember to tighten the bleed screw...Ahem)!

So everything is bled up ok and I took it for a drive...Usually I'm a bit of a pessimist with cars and think it always the £500 job that needs doing and not the £30 one but on this occasion I was really impressed, the WOT issue had completely gone and the hesitation was improved dramatically, about 80% improvement I reckoned.

Back home I grabbed the laptop and found this thread in my favourites and set about cleaning the butterfly v/v and pressure switch, this job really couldn't be simpler, just follow the guides here and have plenty of rags to hand! My butterfly v/v and pressure switch were covered in 2mm to 4mm of oily gunk, the majority was scraped off using a flat bladed screw driver before a good spraying of Gunk to loosen the worst of it and a dose of brake cleaner to get into the nooks on the butterfly v/v.

I then set about the inlet manifold, I would really love to take it off and give it a proper clean but that means disturbing the injection system and a closer look at the inlet ports suggest this may not be needed. Granted, the first couple of inches are thick with crud but after that, it was just a light film of oil. Put a rag under the manfold and scrape what crud you can into it, then pop a couple of fingers in (Mmmm, Bike sheds C.1985 mmmm) and retrieve as much as possible before following with a clean rag, that seemed to get rid of almost everything in the manifold.

I left the test drive 'til Saturday morning as I'd had a couple of Staropramen by then and to be honest I was over the moon, no hesitation, no flat spot and generally a lot smoother! I was very happy with the car when I bought it but I'm now convinced it's a keeper and I'm going to treat it to those 17" Enkei's that I'm refurbishing in the garage!

All in all it took me about 3 hours, with a test drive and a few beers thrown in! I reckon an hour to do it all again!

To the previous poster, the gaskets are metal and should be fine to reuse, just give them a clean and don't bend em!

So thanks guys for being a friendly forum and having some great guides, don't be scared of these jobs, even if you don't think you have a problem, the cleaning of the butterfly v/v and pressure sensor housing will be very therapeutic!

Happy Hondaing!

Dave.
 
Dave,

Many thanks for that great post and sharing your experiences. Glad we could be of some help ;)

You may be interested in this development:

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/6347-premier-tuning-accord-i-ctdi-egr-delete-solution/

and

http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/6417-stage-2-egr-off-remap-woohooo/

Cheers

Fahad
 
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