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Poor Fuel Consumption on 2.4 Auto

Glad to see you're getting somewhere, Honda HDS was the only way to go, and I'm not surprised that there were multiple issues.

Spark plugs are Iridium type, either NGK or Denso, and like Aspirin, price depends where you buy them :lol:

Put ngk izfr6k11 or denso skj20dr-m11 into Google and you'll see quite a wide variation in price

If you're thinking of doing it yourself, you can also get the dimensions of them online. Note that you should not adjust the gaps on Iridium plugs.

edit: out of interest, how much were you charged ?
 
danny35 said:
The standard 16 inch tyres for the accord would be 205/55 R16 91V
The tyres that I have are 225/45 R17 91Y.
Both 205/55/16 and 225/45/17 are standard sizes for this car. Actually many 2.4i would come with 17 and even if yours was 16 standard, the economy impact would be still under 5% so the problem is somewhere else.
 
freddofrog said:
Glad to see you're getting somewhere, Honda HDS was the only way to go, and I'm not surprised that there were multiple issues.

Spark plugs are Iridium type, either NGK or Denso, and like Aspirin, price depends where you buy them :lol:

Put ngk izfr6k11 or denso skj20dr-m11 into Google and you'll see quite a wide variation in price

If you're thinking of doing it yourself, you can also get the dimensions of them online. Note that you should not adjust the gaps on Iridium plugs.

edit: out of interest, how much were you charged ?
Thanks Brian, I was charged £40 for the diagnostic check, and was then offered a further check on everything else including unrelated to the fuel issues for a further £20. I decided to go for it as I figured that I may as well get everything checked in one go, so all together £60. The guy did spend over 1 and a half hours performing the checks and rectifying the issues though. He was a really nice guy actually.
 
Do platinum plugs actually perform better than copper or irdium though, or do they just last longer? I have read up briefly online and the general consensus seems to be that there is not much difference apart from the lifespan. Some people claim Irdium is better and some say that copper performs better but has a short lifespan.

Found the ngk izfr6k11 on Eurocar parts for under £15. Are these the best ones to get?
 
danny35 said:
Thanks Brian, I was charged £40 for the diagnostic check, and was then offered a further check on everything else including unrelated to the fuel issues for a further £20. I decided to go for it as I figured that I may as well get everything checked in one go, so all together £60. The guy did spend over 1 and a half hours performing the checks and rectifying the issues though. He was a really nice guy actually.
That is an absolute bargain, a dealer would charge at least twice that, and some might not even give the same result


danny35 said:
Do platinum plugs actually perform better than copper or irdium though, or do they just last longer? I have read up briefly online and the general consensus seems to be that there is not much difference apart from the lifespan. Some people claim Irdium is better and some say that copper performs better but has a short lifespan.

Found the ngk izfr6k11 on Eurocar parts for under £15. Are these the best ones to get?
I don't know anything about metals LOL so I couldn't say, but Eurocar seems to be a fair bet
 
THREAD 8#

To really see if you are running rich take a spark plug out, the tip should be a nice light brown in colour, if rich it will be black/wet, if weak it will be white/chalky.

Re brake bind, even I can touch the wheels after a run and detect if they are HOT!

Re steering alignment, the tyres will show you how good/bad it is by uneven wear.

and finally take it on the M25 and give it an Italian tune up.

and ask father christmas for a jack! you may need it one day.
 
Thanks guys! Should I also buy new spark plug wires? if so, any idea where I can find them as can't see them anywhere.
 
edgeoftime said:
If he heard a misfire but did not check the plugs?? what sort of clown is he!!

He came to use the diagnostic machine to check for faults. It would have been nice had he checked the spark plug, but he did spend a lot of time helping me with various issues.
 
On an unrelated note, has anyone managed to buy an aftermarket aerial that has improved the radio signal on the accord? The radio signal is really bad and is fuzzy or has visible static over 80% of the time. I also struggle to connect to a station most of the time with the annoying 'PI SEEK' showing up. I then have to use the manual tuner knob to get to a radio station.

Can anyone recommend a cheap but good aerial that I can attach to sort out the poor radio reception?
 
danny35 said:
Thanks guys! Should I also buy new spark plug wires? if so, any idea where I can find them as can't see them anywhere.
this engine does not have a single coil with distributor, it has a coil fitted above each spark plug (aka coil pack)

to get to each spark plug you have to remove the coil pack, they can be seen once the engine cover is removed

engine cover
E__0315.jpg



coil packs and spark plugs (no idea why they only show two when there are four)
E__0500.jpg


click here for spark plug and coil pack part numbers

they sit in tubes built into the head (ignore the flanges floating above the head)
E__1000.jpg




danny35 said:
He came to use the diagnostic machine to check for faults. It would have been nice had he checked the spark plug, but he did spend a lot of time helping me with various issues.
it would have meant a further half an hour at least. As implied in a couple of posts above, could be faulty coil pack(s)


danny35 said:
On an unrelated note, has anyone managed to buy an aftermarket aerial that has improved the radio signal on the accord? The radio signal is really bad and is fuzzy or has visible static over 80% of the time. I also struggle to connect to a station most of the time with the annoying 'PI SEEK' showing up. I then have to use the manual tuner knob to get to a radio station.

Can anyone recommend a cheap but good aerial that I can attach to sort out the poor radio reception?
It sounds like there's a faulty connection in the antenna or feeder, the radio should not behave like that
 
Thanks for that Brian!

Wait, how many spark plugs do I actually need? only thought I needed one.

So it could be the coil pack and not the spark plug..mmm...so would I need to hire a mechanic again to check that out :wacko:
 
danny35 said:
Thanks for that Brian!

Wait, how many spark plugs do I actually need? only thought I needed one.

So it could be the coil pack and not the spark plug..mmm...so would I need to hire a mechanic again to check that out :wacko:
if he pin-pointed one then only that one, but it could be a coil pack instead, OEM prices in that blue link in #76
 
He just said it needed to be changed as he heard the car apparently misfiring.

£110 just for a coil pack :eek: this is getting ridiculous. I will have to take the car to a mechanic AGAIN to get the spark plugs and coil packs checked.
 
If I were you I'd leave the spark-plugs/coil-packs for the time being and see if there is any improvement i.e. fill up with petrol, reset trip meter, see how it goes.

btw you did 152 miles from 16 December to 27 December (which is about 14 miles per day) so I would only expect 25 mpg tops.
 
Out of interest, my is250 gets about ~32mpg on long runs. TBH, The economy on this is not much different than my old CL9, I probably even get more miles on a full tank on this than the Honda if anything on long runs.

The Lexus has been a fantastic car since I have had it but I am having a mid life crisis of sorts and am looking into getting a CL500 Merc.
 
Well, I have some not such good news. After the diagnostic check the car was running much nicer, it was smoother and quieter, but it has now reverted back to being slower to accelerate and feeling heavier and not as smooth. Sometimes when I am stationary, the car goes from idling quietly to a bit rougher. The rev counter is will hold at 900 revs when idling rougher and back down to 500-600 when quieter. Also when the car is idling higher, I can put my foot on the gas pedal momentarily and this will make the car idle quieter again and at around 600 rpm.

I am no mechanic but could it be that the part is faulty and the diagnostic fix was only temporary. Does that sound like an injector issue, lambda, spark plugs?

Also, when I put the heater on, the car vibrates slightly more and the revs go up when idle from around 700 to 900 revs. Is that normal
 
When you go to Halfords for a jack buy a plug spanner and a set of plugs, or take it back to whence it came and have them explain what their full service entails. Sounds like a lot of "work" was omitted Take a "mechanical" mate with you.
 
danny35 said:
Well, I have some not such good news. After the diagnostic check the car was running much nicer, it was smoother and quieter, but it has now reverted back to being slower to accelerate and feeling heavier and not as smooth. Sometimes when I am stationary, the car goes from idling quietly to a bit rougher. The rev counter is will hold at 900 revs when idling rougher and back down to 500-600 when quieter. Also when the car is idling higher, I can put my foot on the gas pedal momentarily and this will make the car idle quieter again and at around 600 rpm.

I am no mechanic but could it be that the part is faulty and the diagnostic fix was only temporary. Does that sound like an injector issue, lambda, spark plugs?

Also, when I put the heater on, the car vibrates slightly more and the revs go up when idle from around 700 to 900 revs. Is that normal


It could be absolutely anything, and it's difficult to know what was done at the "service" in #1, and then what the chap changed using his HDS. You need to find out from both.

Note that on this car, when you put the heater on in Auto mode, the compressor will run (comes on and goes off). i think that this is a part of what you described above. To turn the compressor off, you have to go into manual mode and turn A/C OFF. Depends on whether you have the exec car as to how you do this.


One other thing, the "misfire" that the HDS chap allegedly heard could be caused by valve clearances and/or carbon build up i.e.. carbon build up of its own can cause misfire, or can interfere with valve clearances

edgeoftime said:
Stick your head under the bonnet when it's dark and look for pretty flashing sparks around the pugs and distributor.
there isn't a distributor on this engine. The radio issue is a fault in the antenna or feeder connection
 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uhRkyFusTHU

OK STAND CORRECTED, but still reckon the plugs need looking at.

Sorry about the idiot doing that job, and his omission to show the state of the plugs he removed, but it shows how to get at them. ps if you do it have a box handy to put the removed bits in, on the floor they cannot go anywhere then, unless you kick the box! LOL
 
I kind of left it on bad terms with the mechanic who carried out the service after he bodged up the headlight replacement, so will be difficult to go back to him to ask. When I spoke to him during the service he said that the spark plugs were fine when he checked and that they were the long life ones. God knows what else he actually checked.

On my drive just after I posted the message, the car drove better so this may be an intermittent problem, it's all very confusing...


Re: Edgeoftime-- I don't actually know which if any plugs actually need to be changed. It could be the coils for all I know. I will have to get them inspected.
 
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