It's not going to really pump like the rear Subwoofer does, it's just going to fill a small gap when the tuning of the Subwoofer box response starts to roll off (around 80/90Hz) and where the front speakers pick the lower frequencies up again frequencies up again (100/120hz), the sort of frequency of some larger drums.
The 6.5" front door speakers can hit those frequencies, but not when you play them as loud as I do, so you set a high pass filter on the amplifier to allow all frequencies from that point upwards to flow freely, where the bass frequencies are set to tail off to stop too much bass coming through & causing distortion.
The way to get around this is to drive the speakers less hard, but to double them up or triple/quadruple them. As they are individually being pushed less hard, you get zero distortion at the lower frequencied, but then can introduce imaging problems due to the sound coming from different places. The more drivers, the more likely the problems.
Another solution is to run a 10" or 8" Subwoofer to take the mid bass strain off of the door speakers, but where would I put another 10" Subwoofer? Tbh I'm already out of room. An 8" in the footwell might just work tho.
This relatively small 8" won't be pushed anywhere near its limits though, it will only be used to fill the gap or handover point from the 12W7 in to boot to the front doors. It's an 8W3v3-4.
To break that down is like tyre markings. The 8 means it's an 8" driver, W3 is the position in the JL Audio range, v3 means it's a mark 3, the -4 means it's 4 ohms voice coil.
The JL subwoofer range topper is the costly W7 (available in 13.5" 12" 10" 8") then W6, then W3, then W1/W0 and others etc getting cheaper all the time. The starter Subwoofer 10W0 is only around £60, whereas this little 8" the 8W3 retails at £170 and obviously the build quality of the Subwoofer is vastly improved along with the rated output which in this case is 250w RMS. JL Audio are well known for a lack of exaggeration in their power rating figures.
This Subwoofers rated power is overkill for what it will be used for, but for the secondhand price of £50 it just means it will not be working very hard & last forever pretty much. The 12W7 in the boot I have owned now for some 8 years, and from the W3 range upwards you really do get top quality R&D with terrific engineering.
So to recap it's not to hit hard, just to fill in a small gap where the 6.5" door speakers struggle to accurately reproduce at very high volumes.
The 6.5" front door speakers can hit those frequencies, but not when you play them as loud as I do, so you set a high pass filter on the amplifier to allow all frequencies from that point upwards to flow freely, where the bass frequencies are set to tail off to stop too much bass coming through & causing distortion.
The way to get around this is to drive the speakers less hard, but to double them up or triple/quadruple them. As they are individually being pushed less hard, you get zero distortion at the lower frequencied, but then can introduce imaging problems due to the sound coming from different places. The more drivers, the more likely the problems.
Another solution is to run a 10" or 8" Subwoofer to take the mid bass strain off of the door speakers, but where would I put another 10" Subwoofer? Tbh I'm already out of room. An 8" in the footwell might just work tho.
This relatively small 8" won't be pushed anywhere near its limits though, it will only be used to fill the gap or handover point from the 12W7 in to boot to the front doors. It's an 8W3v3-4.
To break that down is like tyre markings. The 8 means it's an 8" driver, W3 is the position in the JL Audio range, v3 means it's a mark 3, the -4 means it's 4 ohms voice coil.
The JL subwoofer range topper is the costly W7 (available in 13.5" 12" 10" 8") then W6, then W3, then W1/W0 and others etc getting cheaper all the time. The starter Subwoofer 10W0 is only around £60, whereas this little 8" the 8W3 retails at £170 and obviously the build quality of the Subwoofer is vastly improved along with the rated output which in this case is 250w RMS. JL Audio are well known for a lack of exaggeration in their power rating figures.
This Subwoofers rated power is overkill for what it will be used for, but for the secondhand price of £50 it just means it will not be working very hard & last forever pretty much. The 12W7 in the boot I have owned now for some 8 years, and from the W3 range upwards you really do get top quality R&D with terrific engineering.
So to recap it's not to hit hard, just to fill in a small gap where the 6.5" door speakers struggle to accurately reproduce at very high volumes.
