Recent content by BlueVTEC

Having the battery disconnected. Probably just hasn't been reset since the last time it lost charge or had the battery replaced.

1. Correct, don't engage R until at a complete stop. 2. N only needs to be used I'm emergencies really, for example if your throttle stuck open while driving, you can just push the stick into N. Other than that, it's pretty useless. 3. Either, its upto the driver. I tend to slip any autos I...

Honda were the first to do it Exec. Every modern car nowadays is the same way, and what with parts and Labour being so exspensive, you will start seeing a lot of dead cars as they get older.

No they can't be recorded. You could try swapping out the ECU and valve body, but you have to strip the gearbox down completely to do this, so you'd still have to pay Labour, overhaul kit etc.

The fluid won't be at fault. If it was low enough to affect hydraulic pressure in reverse, it would affect the forward ratios first as these hubs contain more fluid. Please do not suggest pointless things if you have no idea why such a thing would not matter.

Your reverse hub has split open. You'll probably find that it reverses fine on level ground correct? This is because it requires less hydraulic pressure for the gearbox to move the car on level ground, however once trying to reverse up an incline, the hydraulic pressure required is too much for...

I've done it, wouldn't do it again! Hubs, gearbox, engine and ancillaries, subframe, mounts, exhaust, and other bits. Then the hardest part is the loom and ecu, requires the entire dash and interior being stripped out. Way too much work, just buy a type r

You won't get more power...hahaha

Just two points about the gearbox if I may, feel free to check my website for my credentials - www.wexfordtransmission.ie 1. The ATF fluid used in the accord autos is actually a lifetime oil, which despite being on the service routine does not need to be changed. However if you really feel the...

Sounds like the front footwell is suffering from a rusty bulkhead. Take off the arch liners and check where the arches join the firewall.

Get it scanned via the OBD port and remove the fault codes.

Battery Terminal to slam panel. Headlights to inner wing, looks like a metal spider! Nearside strut-top to block, possibly chassis leg can't remember. Might be more but I can't be bothered to go out in the cold and look haha. I would start with the headlight one

Pre-Facelift ATR's are mapped to 98. They will run on 95 quite happily but definetely feel more eager with 98. As for preference or cleaning qualitys, I have none to be honest. However I do avoid supermarket fuel after getting a " bad batch" twice, even with the higher octane fuels.

30mm would be as far as you would want to go really. Anymore and you'll start compromising the practicality. As for the strips, they leave behind square holes when removed, so are best either colour coded (if not already) or left alone.

Yep straight swap, however if your sport has the bolt on lips, you will have to modify them in order to fit facelift bumpers. You will also need a facelift grill too btw, as the pre-facelift grill will not sit right against a facelift bumper when the bonnet is closed.