Recent content by superste

Update - I took it to a local Garage who had it for the day but did nothing. Don't think they fancied getting 'in' to the iacv due to its awkward location! So I had a go, unbolted it but left it attached to the hoses, gave it a good squirt of carb cleaner and reattached it. No change initially...

I've been out of the country for nearly 3 months and my 1.8 manual has been sitting on the drive, with an occasional turnover from the wife. Came back on Friday, tried her and she started up, no problem (the car, not the wife). Slightly sluggish to crank, so took her out for some spirited...

Any mention in the service book or receipts of whether they changed the water pump at the same time? I've rung Honda before and been quoted a fixed price of £210 just for the belt. Start adding in the water pump and aux belts and it's getting into £400+ territory. Seeing as she only cost me £650...

Shortly after doing mine, I stalled a couple of times. After a while, the car seemed to adjust to the new setup and idle returned to normal. Just keep on driving, see how it goes...

You want a "gram-o-phone", Grandad? https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=OXDK3x5lAYI Still makes me laugh, endlessly quotable...

One other point of note is the seal on the locating pin on the light cluster. This seems to be felt or some such material and perishes badly with age. As this is OUTSIDE of the rubber seal described above, water can get in to the boot if it's perished - did with mine. I just used sealant on mine...

I did mine and, ultimately, it's made a big difference. Mine was suffering from a distinct hesitation when trying to pull away - at a roundabout for instance. NOT fun when you pull out into traffic and feel the revs die on you... I was convinced, reading the forums, this would sort it...

I'm no expert (no sh*t! I hear you all shout) but from reading these invaluable threads, I've learnt that the 2.0 has 2 lambda sensors, before and after the cat ( Please tell me I'm not imagining all this). A possibility the downstream one got damaged, or a crushed cable, at some point in this...

P.S. - Med Flyer - my aerial often doesn't retract all the way, although the motor whirrs away. Other than cleaning it with a dry cloth - which often has a short lived effect - what else do you recommend?

Go to the government's mot website, type in the reg number and check up on any fails / advisories it's had. Match them up with the advice above, but a biggie would be corrosion / excessive corrosion to prescribed suspension area, or something of that ilk. Very common but, if it's not too...

I'd say just clean the plate rather than blank off the valve. Come MOT time it's gonna fail emissions, as the recirculated exhaust gas cools the combustion temperature and high temperatures lead to NOx production. Obviously, you could just remove the plate at MOT time! The other question to ask...

Are there any MOT fail implications if this is spotted during an MOT?

Hi Freddo, yes finally got it off. That technique didn't work. An alternative technique is to catch the circlip with the edge of a rag. That didn't work either. Got it off with the tip of a fine screwdriver. Next is to try and remove the door handle - it's suffered a crack and needs repairing...

Had a look on youtube - this looks like a suitable way to remove that pesky circlip... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=psYYqQhWY2o

http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17S4A01&block_02=B__5400&block_03=6815&block_05=hcr Had a look at the exploded diagram on the Lings site and it looks like you're right, there's a 'Regulator Handle Pin' in there. Will take a look again in the morning.