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My OEM discs on the 6th Gen started getting advisories of scored and corroded on the 6th year (that twice now at 12yrs). I just put on some Pagid rear discs for £38, already had some OEM pads in the shed but paid about £30 for them. If I were you I'd replace the discs because I bet the discs...

I bought this vid from EricTheCarGuy on the timing belt, also goes through cam and oil pump seal (not crank) however I guess they could be similar. http://www.ericthecarguy.com/1990-2002-honda-f-series-timing-belt-replacement-vmanual This seal remover tool is also meant to make life so much...

...just when I thought I didn't need anymore tools....there is always just one more waiting to be bought. lol :angry:

All yours ;-) http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/16845-diy-6th-gen-valve-clearance-howto/

Your welcome, The droplink nuts (14mm) are infamous for being rusted on. If you have the means to get them off then the job will be relatively simple. Some folk prefer to grind them off, others use larger and larger breaker bars until they win. I don't think the blowtorch and impact driver...

Do you mind doing a little DIY? A blowtorch and impact driver makes this a 5min job each side, or be prepared to struggle a bit more with handtools and plusgas. I've got a diy for these which I'll write up for you. Get the droplinks (Lemforders) from EuroCarParts when discounted. I got them...

It could also be the Anti-Roll Bar bushes, although the droplinks are almost a dead cert at this age if they haven't been done before. Can you get the rear of the car up on some axle stands for a look around?

I think when my rear drop links went, its was more of a clunk than a rattle. When do you hear the noise, cornering, accelerating, over speed bumps or something else?

Caliper from Honda cost me £105 about 3years ago, pads are around £30, factor in labour at minimum of one hour and brake bleed plus brake fluid then its probably just about right. Obviously there are cheaper ways, used caliper, cheap pads, cheap labour. Ultimately it depends where you got it...

The cable via the caliper bracket is often stuck. Some penetrating oil, decent pliers preferably vice grips as this situation can be as sticky as sticky the stick insect being stuck on a sticky bun - its that sticky!

My cooling fan hardly ever comes on in comparison to other cars I've had, so I wouldn't necessarily worry about it. After the coolant system drain and refill, starting the engine it took around 10 mins for the fans to come on whilst sitting idling to aid the bleed process.

Sounds a bit like a slipping clutch aswell, I presume its not that?

The Idle Air Control Valve is often a candidate for a lumpy tickover, however a friend of mine with a 6th Gen got his diagnosed as a faulty injector so that might be the next place(s) to look.

Well done guys! Cheers for coming back to the thread Lou and letting us know the outcome, most folk don't bother and you never know if the problem was fixed! Don't know about your engine mount, sorry!

Did you pump the brake pedal a few times to ensure the piston(s) are in the correct position? Also in front of the adjustment nut (or behind as in the pic), there is a balance bar (I think its called) its where the two cables connect. Is that running perpendicular to the cables or at an...

sounds more like discs and pads prices...what a rip off.

No probs B)

Nice one...let us know how you get on!

I don't have any lying around Pedro... I tried to improvise with a 'feeler' to measure the gap (I don't have my jack and tools with me to lift the car or even get that pad out) so I tried and estimate the gap to be around 13.4mm, maybe brake tab around 13mm?

I think over here in the UK Pagids are about £20 and Honda's OEM are about £30 on the front. I know some may argue thats 50% more but in real terms its only a £10 more, with no rattles with probably somewhere between 20-40000 miles of wear (or 'x' years) - rattle free.