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Just saw your edit. How does the belt feel on the alternator? Is it very tight or loose, on mine a very firm press around halfway along the long side should deflect it about 1cm or so. Was there any noise when it was spinning, grinding etc? Was the smoke coming from there?

Nice one Tony, top man! B)

Not sure about that, have a look on Lings for a new price, compare that to reconditoned ones or from Ebay or EuroCarParts. I'm not recommending any of these places Andy, just for you to estimate a price. Maybe some other guys can point you in a 7th Gen direction ;-)

I got told years ago when I first started driving that revving the engine and watching your headlights brighten and dim, following the RPMs (up and down) in otherwords was a sign of a failing alternator. As its dark, maybe give that a go as you are parked up.

Maybe the bearings have gone or somethings has burnt out, is the it the Rectifier its called?

hmmmm.....do I want a set for my 6th gen? Maybe lol https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PerT6hpIEMk

Alternator sounds shot im afraid. Should be at least 14v with the engine running.

Where you buying it from? Lings website would confirm the parts to each car. You might need to sign up and search your own car, the link is for a 1.8 (f18b2/cg8) http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/honda_car_parts_block_selection_C30.php?mod_01=2653 When I replaced my rears a few years ago...

Even if its not the battery, you will probably need one sooner than you think. You might need to invest in a meter regardless, or beg/borrow one. Three reasons 1. is the battery ok? (already discussed) 2. is the alternator ok? (already discussed) 3. are you experiencing a parastic draw?*...

Sounds like the clutch and hydraulics need looked at. Slipping in 3rd whilst accelerating certainly is indicative of worn clutch material regardless of what condition the hydraulics are in.

The check Jon mentioned is also critical regarding the Alternator. Its just the same test, leads in the same position, nothing changes on the meter and take a reading with the engine running and you want about the 14.4V this basically ensures the alternator is working effectively and outputting...

You don't need any skills to measure DC voltage. I spent about £30 on my meter, not the cheapest but miles off the price of a £500 Fluke. Literally turn it to 20v DC*, put the black lead on negative and red on positive (battery still in car, all connected up, nothing needs removed) and take a...

Have you got a multi-meter? A voltage reading would be beneficial. You said you bought a charger, did you actually use it if so how long was it on? Some chargers might indicate a fault, or go into a maintenance mode. Finally, how old is the battery?

Good news Noel.. Are you going to try and clean it? I bought a can of electrical contact cleaner from Halfords that might do the trick, then maybe a spray of silicone to make it slide. I used silicone spray on a number of Flymo lawnmovers, strimmers and blower switches lol...its the same...

Nice one Tony! Good to hear some positive opinions about it. ;)

Lou, I've got a brake howto in the DIY section. I've got the guide for the droplinks and bushes half complete (cough) infront of me. You could do these yourself if you don't mind a wee investment in some tools. I bet Tony could tackle all those jobs in just over half a day no probs... as long...

Lol...I think you are correct Mr Exec. Its not seen VTEC in such a long time it probably thinks its a VW so has started falling to bits ;-) Aye, get the injector looked at. I suggested the IACV to their local mechanic but he said it was ok, eventually pinned it on an injector. Always RON95...

I think I have a few issues. Now the car is pretty much (12yrs) original expect for the usual service parts and brakes so there is a likelihood of wear and tear or material breakdown. The belt looks off for sure, and it was done at Honda so not too happy about that. I never 'race' the car in...

I like the description of the Ferrari one were the camlobes ends are angled/oblique or should I say not parallel to the camshaft. The camshaft is then pushed on axis across the rocker arms and the progressive angle of the lobe seamlessly increases lift throughout the range...

Hmmmm....I'm sure the connector to the hose will be ok its whether or not the hole in the bonnet is the same size. They look near identical to me on the underside, comparing against these...