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No problem - hope it works out for you! :)

Just re-read the acronyms and you're right, they are thrown about without explaining what they are. Which gives me an idea for the forum, we should have a reference for each of the terms and what they mean! Ok, so here goes: MAP Sensor = Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor. This measures the air...

Hi Dave, if the revs rise, but the car doesn't speed up then it really sounds like a clutch issue. It's starting to slip and basically, the torque from the engine is breaking the limit of friction for the clutch. The clutch catches up eventually and hence the engine revs drop to match the load...

Yep, as Frenchy says, you'll need to check both. The switch is actually dual operated so the car knows if there's a fault. i.e. When the clutch is up, A side of the switch is closed and the B is open giving %10 result When the clutch is down, A side of the switch is open and the B side is...

The switch should be fully closed when the clutch pedal is up. Only real way to check is to use a multimeter and check that the switch shorts correctly.

Thanks for that Tim! :)

Good read - I think you've managed to successfully personify your wallet in my eyes, Re the costs, Honda parts are incredibly expensive and on all but the specialist items, it's worthwhile going non-genuine (note I didn't say non-OEM :) ). The wheely bin incident could have happened in...

Is it the clutch pedal switch? If the CC thinks the clutch is pressed, it will tell you turn on the CC, but not set it.

Hmmmm... did you check for play? If you lift the rear wheel using a jack and spin it by hand?

Actually there's a bolt on the top of the gearbox that you can use to fill it. But you'll need a funnel and a piece of hose. Much easy to fill that through the inspection hole. There's a DIY on it here somewhere! But it's very easy.

Its it a consistent squeal? i.e. related to speed? Could it be a stuck caliper rather than bearing? A worn bearing is more of a drone that squeal.

I supposed to complete the topic and provide useful feelback to the search engine. If anyone is looking for the OEM Premium sound system for a Diesel Accord the part number is 39050-SEF-E210-M1

Cool - let us know how you get on with it! Enjoy!

FIWIW - I used H&R springs with Bilstein shocks. I've the OEM 17" Pentas and I get about 35mm lower - that seems just about right. Prices were €300 for the springs and €640 for the dampers - shocking upgrade to handling! :)

It sounds like warped rotors, there's no real cheap solution other than replace the rotors (discs) and pads I'm afraid.

That's the petrol one.

If you restart the car and the condition that caused the limp is resolved you'll be back to normal. If not it will tell be stuck on. You can disconnect and reconnect for what it is worth.

Get the code read now - it will tell you the fault. I am in Dublin if you are stuck but not sure where your based

Ok, best of luck. It all else fails try the "MAP whack" as it's know on the S2000 :)

It's a good a place to start as any. Take out the MAP and give it a clean (you'll find there's gunk on it). Replace and test. To truly test the MAP you'll have to get it on a HDS. It could be simpler to swap with a know good MAP.