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The anti-rattle clips are not necessarily essential, but they stop the calliper moving or rattling. I ***ume the non-OEM pads are a tight-enough fit so they don't move? You can get them separately from Honda if you want: Part 14 here...

Not done it, but I've seen it done, the basics for the engine are the same (both K20s), but that's pretty much it, for the CTR everything else gets improved. I would imagine so do this you will need: 1. Gearbox (no point it putting it through an Accord's box) 2. ECU, wiring 3. Drive-shafts...

It's unlikely that the dip-beams are running at 11V and the rest of the car is at 12V. Did you check the output at the battery terminals? Perhaps it's your voltmeter calibration? So, two things: 1. If the output at the battery terminals is 11V, then you've a battery alternator problem. You'll...

The timing wouldn't advance... so couldn't figure it out, then eventually the knock sensor threw an error. But this was in the middle of a load of messing with the car, so I wasn't sure, if it was my messing or the actual sensor. Swapped in an another, and timing resolved... pure fluke than...

This... you'd be surprised how much effect this cooling pipe has on the liquid. Keep in mind, it is continually pumped around the rack and constantly under stress, etc.

24mpg (imperial not US) for Urban driving is not too far off the mark for the specifications. 24-28mpg, if I recall from memory. You are two things going against you with the 2.4. One is the autobox and the other is the Tourer's weight/shape, all of which add to the fuel consumption of the car...

This - the clutch/brake switch activates randomly as it needs to be cleaned/replaced. You don't see any lights on the dash as it looks like you've hit the brake (electrically speaking) and thus CC get disabled. Obviously when driving you don't see the brake lights or notice the clutch switch...

If the springs are lowering, then you'll blow the stock shocks quicker... TBH, with the cost of stock shocks vs the right answer, spend the money on the right ones.

There are no eibach Springs left for the tourer. So I used H&R Springs. The shocks are of course Bilstein front and rear. Suspension on the face lift and prefacelift are the same for the tourer.

Yes, it's not a simply matter of just changing the headunit. The units have different connectors between the Nav and non-Nav version. Also, the Nav version has additional items line antenna, DVD readers, etc.

It's 08W60-SEF-601 for your car. However, I'm not sure if you can still get these, you'd probably be better off with some Eibach stuff.,

You would only need to adjust the milage on the clock. The units are not coded to the car, but the mileage is held within the unit itself. It's pretty straightforward to adjust if you have the right equipment (HDS or similar) Yep, you can. It all depends on how hand you are at soldering...

There are no "bulbs" only LEDs on that. However LEDs don't burn out like a bulb. If it's dim, it is more than likely that the potentiometer is reducing power too low... not a separate part though :(

It's a bit trickier than that on the tourer as the rear parking light is in the automatic boot. You really, really don't want to strip that to get your feed. Fortunately, there's a breakout box over the RHD rear wheel well where you can tap the reverse light signal. I think the wire is a...

Very easy to do... a bit of movement and you'll get it. They don't tend to seize.

No harm in flushing it. You could take the step-by-step (i.e. a small amount at a time approach).

Then you have a leak somewhere. The PSF should not drop low, it is not like oil which gets burnt as part of the combustion cycle.

Yeah, it's a straight swap for headlights.

H&R spring code is 29281-2 is for the 2.4 Petrol Estate. I got them at dcperformance http://www.dcperformance.co.uk/cheap/238514/honda/h_r-lowering-springs/29281-2.html

Here's some help - you've to remove two bolts to remove the spring, one in the shock and the other into the rear hub ***embly. Use a jack to keep the spring compressed: http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/14408-tourer-rear-shock-damper-replacement/?hl=shock The front is tricker, as you'll need...