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Distance generally doesn't make a difference to size, unless the fluid has to go through some rubber hosing that will stretch (even marginally). Not sure why the ABS pump would be different. Did you check Lings for a part number for the two?

FWIW - Nissin do the break systems on the Accord and most others. SEA is normally to do with the Honda OEM part number.

Guys, the big thing with the gearbox oils is not just the oil itself, but it is the friction additives. These are essential ingredients to ensure that the synchros catch and spin at the right speed. At the lubrication or cooling level, almost any normal oil will do (even Honda say you can use...

The manual gearbox takes about 2.2 litres to change. As Cliff says the little reservoir is the clutch fluid. Check the thread here to see if you have a PSP reservoir and pump: http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/16228-power-steering-fluid-change/?hl=psp But seeing as you have a "Sport" I...

1. Honda MTF3 2. For the 2.0 iVTEC, it's only long/short if you have hydraulic or electric power steering. Personally, I used a Gates drive/aux belt.

Oops only setting this now. You could simply have a leak in the vacuum line to the Brake Servo. I'd start there first! Much cheaper than replacing the whole braking servo. The rubbers over time tend to corrode.

Yeah, you'll be fine to wait. It'll begin to "howl" before it goes. But the bark, does become annoying when you take off. I only got 76K out of my clutch (lot of city driving) and I was getting a shudder too on take off.

The Honda Stream, the best car we've ever had :) The K20 is the same as the Accord, CRV, etc and the gearbox is pretty good (it's a 5 speed AT as found in the Accord, the CRV is a loooong 4-speed). No real forums I found for this in the UK, but TBH, most of it can be gained from this very...

It's based on the ELM327 chip by the looks of it - this will only give you the generic OBDII stuff. Nothing really Honda specific.

You 100% sure they match up - exactly as the OEM number? For some reason, I thought the 2.4 shafts were different.

You can adjust the bite point slightly with at the MC level - but if you're happy leave it alone.

I'd say the clicking is more than likely a bearing on the way out rather than the belt. The belt would squeak/squeal rather than click. Simplest solution is to remove the belt, and check each pulley (including the alternator) for excessive play.

You can get a litre for about 10 euro from the dealer. I always get 3 litres as you end up losing some. While you're there, get a drain washer as well. Basically, for a full MTF flush, you're looking at 30 euro in genuine parts - that's cheap. Oh and you can go off and buy redline, etc, but...

Window regulator.

Is it the pads or discs?

2.5K!! Get yourself to the number 1 clutch and repair team. Mr Clutch and Gearbox. He'll do the whole lot for about 900.

The MC can fail in the Accord - it seems a pretty weak design. Coupled with the creak/squeak that it also has, I'm not sure how it got past Honda's quality department. Anyhow, if it's going to the floor intermittently, then it's clutch hydraulics. Check for leaks around the slave and look up the...

Hmmm. I find bleed clutches on Honda can be an absolute pain in the proverbial. How I've successfully done it on various Honda's is by the following: 1. Fill the master and keep it full through the process. 2. Have the slave cylinder uncoupled from the body and a length of hose connected to the...

Yeah, it's part of the airbag (SRS) system. Another member had one go about a year ago: http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17SED01&block_02=B__1341&block_03=533 You can see the sensors and the locations here (it's really small but take a look at the diagram...

It isn't simply that the release fork is out of grease and or PP is getting past it? I remember doing the clutch on my S2000 and I'd re-greased everything when stripped. When I went to start it, I nearly put my foot through the floor! The clutch felt way lighter. If you think about it all you...