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Well, let's look at how you're re-creating the sound with the pry-bar. By applying vertical force on the LCA at that point, force will be transferred to the following: 1. LCA bushes - the compliance bush is done, but what about the other 2? 2. The ARB droplinks - done? The ARB bushes (unlikely...

Dry anti-roll bar droplink. If on OEM, then run out of grease and squeak like hell.

Yep, long topic on it here: http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/1127-p2004-imrc-intake-manifold-runner-control-problems/

I meant clean the IMRC to make sure it's moving ok. There's a guide here somewhere.

Hmmm... I am dubious about drilled discs/rotors. For the Accord heat dissipation is not really a massive issue (unless you're tracking) and in reality the drilled brakes offer less surface friction than a solid disc. It would be different for say a Porsche that has massive calipers and discs...

I'd say its the P2004 code. Basically the IMRC is stuck - this is a valve on intake the controls the length of the intake piping. It is controlled by the FSV (frequency solenoid valve). First step would be to give it a good clean! :)

Errr, the bushes are cheap and the rears are easy, but the front certainly isn't straight-forward. Yes, I had to. Really? How did do get at the rear bolt on the ARB holder? This is buried between the subframe and the car body. I had to drop the rear of the sub-frame slightly to get at it. I...

You front ARB bushes are worn. A common enough issue on high-mileage Accords.

Ah here. Just get a replacment from a breakers. I wouldn't mind that waffle from the dealer.

I'd give a vote to Big Redd. I got my rear calipers from them and found the service very good.

Oh and Meyle on the droplinks :)

+1 on Cliff's feedback. They make the ride very rough.

I agree with Jon here, Engine RPM (RPM) 812 rpm Intake manifold absolute pressure (MAP) 1.441263573543929 Atm At 812 RPM (i.e. no turbo), MAP should be closer to 1 atmosphere. Also, the MAF is only indicating 5.27 g/s, so it really is only just above idle. It looks as if the MAP is...

Again, check the mounts first, it's simpler. But it could be internal to the box itself. Yeah, the clutch pedal plate (that the clutch attaches to) can be weak. It's actually quite strong on the forward/back movement, but any lateral movement and it'll break. It's only spot welded and you...

Don't buy a new ECU for your car. Get one from a breakers and get it re-programmed to the keys and car. You're ECU's memory (EEPROM) or silimar has failed. This is uncommon, but not impossible.

That's a synchro thingy I think. I remember something about that with the six-speeds, but it was rectified pretty quickly. I actually think it was only a batch of them rather than all six-speeds However, it's not something simpler now that the car is 8 years old? I would imagine in the first 3...

^ +1 on the battery.

Saloon Caliper for a Diesel http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17SEA01&block_02=B__1910&block_03=2947 Saloon Caliper for a Petrol (2.4) http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection.php?block_01=17SEA01&block_02=B__1910&block_03=2947 Part numbers...

Yes, it could be drive shafts. But I'd try the simple (aka cheap) things first: 1. Check tyre pressure 2. Swap tyres around 3. Try the same in 3rd gear (should be more pronounced if drive-shaft) 4. Check bushes.

Yes, the play is known to occur. You need to re-tighten the steering rack guide to remove the knocking/play from it. See Steering Rack Adjustment: http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/14422-review-accord-tourer-bilstein-b8s-and-hr-springs/