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I would almost say thats timing chain noise... What year is your car?

Whilst i tend to agree... I used this stuff (i think). http://www.lubetechshop.co.uk/product_info.php?cPath=22_27&products_id=44 I changed my oil and filter every 9k miles and my car never complained

No but it was good quality oil that was fully synth and met the correct quality grades required

Wozza! A man of your calibre should know how to do this. PM me if you want a little ***istance :)

Surely thats not that good? I purchased a 25l drum of 0w30 for £89 delivered

My thread is here:http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/11712-7th-gen-new-aux-belt-alternator-diy/#entry131056 Salims thread is here: http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/1683-diy-alternator-change/

Dont get a mechanic to sort it. Its an easy job to DIY. Look in the 7th gen diy forum. Several members including myself have written guides on what to do

Not sure how you can be quoted 1k and they fly wheel is seriously expensive. Plus the labour and clutch.

A genuine flywheel is close to £1k, and its about £800 for the clutch and for honda to change it..i guess they may add on an extra hour to include the flywheel.. So around £2k for the lot..

If you look at the routing though,its not easy to slip as the contact patch coupled with belt tension was too great. I think the crank pulley is about 20cm dia and the alternator is less than half this size... The OP complained of a screeching noise before it stopped and this could have been...

You glanced over my ****ysis somewhat and its difficult on a phone to get a concise reason across. Lets get some basics here that we all should agree on; 1) max torque of a motor is a 0 rpm. 2) the starter attempts to move the flywheel. 3) flywheel is attached to a crank with (in our case 4...

Alan. Torque is a force and can be absorbed / transfered in to another object or body. As you say pumping losses is a perfect example.. Even more so with the delicate but very functional oil pump the accord has, the contra-rotating pump requires torque from the engine (via chain and sprocket...

I for one am not supprised a seized alternator stopped the engine turning. I presume the aux belt is the old longer one? With the belt comming off the compressor down to the alternator then making an almost 180degree turn up to the idler pulley... There is alot of force on the alternator...

So you need to: Get the tracking checked... Go to a good garage or look at wheelsin motion to see where their nearest partner is. Low speed clunk is probably down to a worn bush or ball joint. 3-do not understand. 4 - rattle could be anything .. Try taking the glovebox outand seeing if there...

Always replace shocks in pairs.. Its like replacing one shoe and not the other. Both have seen very similar wear

This is a canbus feature... Not on the 7th gen

I wish i had known... I have 2 new lower ball joins in my garage i want rid of.

Ok good stuff :)

Fuel filter isnt easy..i would highly suggest you read the DIY before you start and it can be tricky. Its not easy but im 99% sure this is your issue. The reason your only seeing it at highrevs in higher gears is the fuel demand is much greater.

Fuel filter. Replace it with a genuine honda filter. I bet £10 internet pounds that this is your problem