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Having found one of those sleeping policemen in London last week, I have a non effective front windscreen pump. I have got the temprorary fix by bending the arch protector out of the way, swopping the pipes that deal with the front/rear for now but know it will fail an MOT if the inspection...

As it is a Tourer, does it have the standard roof rack, an after market one, or none (like mine ) ?

I would hazard it is a clogging fuel filter, have you tried draining it ?

On another thread I replaced the TPS when it was clear the tracks inside were causing all sorts of trouble after spraying with good electrical solution multiple times The replacement looks identical but has twice caused a loss of power (limp mode) though it was only under 'pedal to the floor'...

Yes and no. The boot opens, though now I am committed to helping somebody collect some heavy items later in the week.

And...... Disconnecting the battery for 30 minutes has fixed it, for now.

Thanks I had a similar fix a couple of years back (when I clipped one size of the boot door on a car park bollard). The nearside rear window also fixed itself after disconnecting the battery for ten minutes, but not this time.

No idea about shampoos at all. I use the rated oil and try to replace the filter at every change. On this forum there have been many posts relating to a noise from the oil pump chain that usually signifies a lack of maintenance at some point and a quick death afterwards. If it's not rattling...

Symptoms, boot does not unlock with the outer handle or the keyfob (only the manual catch inside, which is a real pain to get to when loaded up). On closing the boot catch does not do the 'pull in' and I have to push the door in manually before I can lock/deadlock with the remote. Basically...

Depending on the annual mileage and type of journeys (commute or motorway) you might consider changing the oil and filter more frequently. Additionally a flush of the sump area might also be useful to clear out old contaminants.

I'm hoping it is not a failure of the wiring loom but before I start looking around the hinge point, is there a particula fuse in the system that deals with the motor and boot catch mechanism ? I've looked through the glove compartment booklet but cannot find anything. If there isn't one which...

If the belt is beginning to play up it could be anything that runs off it or near it, including the idlers. I would get that sorted first, then listen for other noises. I replaced my alternator a few months back and the engine compartment got a lot quieter as a result.

The thread suggestions came to about half the weight of the Accord.

You could go down the slimming route which would improve handling at the same time as helping stright line stuff. There was a thread on this a few years back.

Did you pour it into the fuel tank and leave it overnight ?

Somebody (not a million miles from here) has posted a video previously which shows the filling of the perished rubber voids with flexiseal. Apparently it works a treat. Window-weld is an option but not as good

Have you checked options in other countries other than the two mentioned ?

I have given the clutch an easy life since I have owned her, so not the latter.

And the autopsy , the interior tracks are worn with one particular balding spot where the ECU determines something has gone wrong. All in all about 40 minutes work.

All done, easier than expected. The original bolts are best loosened with a small set of molegrips as drilling out would be a pain. The tourer feels smoother and cruise control operation is back, no limp mode during a sixty mile trip on Thursday, or since.