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Exactly my intensions, only does it when I'm booting it. I'm on 193779 miles now ( did oil and filter today ) wonder how long it will last until it's completely knackered. Looking back, I seem to have been very lucky with cars, I'm 60 now and never had to replace a clutch on any of the vehicles...

That sounds like a ridiculous amount and more than my car is worth at present.

Not temporary, been doing it a while now. What is your place charging for a clutch replacement these days? you can pm me that if you don't want to advertise it. Any cheaper if I source the parts?

So, I put my foot down and the revs shoot up to 3-4k but then drop back a few hundred, Like acceleration is turned off temporarily, so I back off the throttle a bit and the revs start climbing again. Don't notice it much in 1st or 2nd, worse in 3rd and 4th. Is this a sign of the clutch going?

Better to get it removed and deleted

I wouldn't even go down the full drain route as it could upset the gearbox, had a couple of volvo geartronics in the past and it wasn't recommended to do a full replacement, plus it was much more problematic at the same time. As F6HAD pointed out, much better for the gearbox to do a partial...

I can't find anything cheaper for 20L so it'll have to do.

Anybody used this before? On sale, 20 litres for £79.99 ...

Found this: Think he means the bleed nipples. Whole thread here: https://typeaccord.co.uk/board/threads/brake-bleeding-mityvac.19468/

This is the one I ended up getting: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/esen-skv/16009875

Did mine a while ago and the first two I got off ebay were wrong even though the part number matched and it said it would fit my vehicle. I ended up getting one from Autodoc. As you look down on it where the 4 bolts go in does it have a bump on two sides between the bolt holes?

Must be the calliper, did you check the seal was fitted the right way around

Maybe get someone to apply the brake while you look for a leak, should leak under pressure and then draw air in when released. Possibly a brake pipe or line or calliper connection.

I'd be checking the heater motor fuse first

Get searching on ebay, you can usually find what you need if you persevere. I've spent hours looking for stuff like this, often it's all about the wording.

As said, open the bonnet and smell, if it stinks of diesel fumes the egr pipe is split

I agree, I do it myself if I'm interested in a vehicle. But some of these things seem a tad petty: Offside Rear coil spring corroded (2.4.C.1b) exhaust system slightly corroded + flexi mesh damaged Nearside Rear Brake pipe slightly corroded (3.6.B.2c) Offside Rear Brake pipe slightly corroded...

Not just that though, it can affect the sale price at the end of the day, people see these advisories and it puts them off, lowers the price.

That could have been on the road and somehow flipped up into your engine bay, does the auxiliary belt look okay

Had my yearly MOT done last week, car passed with no advisory's even though it was the same garage that last year flagged up rust on a rear subframe. Had this before, some garages will pick the smallest faults, it is utterly ridiculous the amount of advisories at the hands of the testers. Like a...