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Regarding the hesitation, have you checked the valve clearence? About that pipe, will see if mine has ine ;)

The seals are parts 30 and 29. Parts 3 and 4 are rubber cushions.

Engine oil, as stated in the workshop manual.

I have done my EGR several times, once I replaced the o-rings, but later at other time I used the same ones. Never had any fuel leak! Either you use new or old o-rings, make sure you lube them. Also, be careful when installing the injectors so you don't damage the o-rings or the injectors.There...

I guess that filter will not work. The one which is found in the 6th gen is like this one: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Accord-1-8-99-03-NIPPARTS-Fuel-Filter-/321287696699?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ace3d313b

About oil, use something fully synthetic 5w-40. In the past I used Motul xcess 8100 and liked it. Now I am using Fuchs ***an GT1 XTL, which is also a good oil, but a bit cheaper. Oil filter, go for OEM or a Purflux, which is the brand of the OEM ones. Fuel filter, I am using an after market...

That's what I do now, I don't let an air gun near my car, and just in case, when I get home, I torque them all to 108nm....

A few pictures would be great to help. Any way, try to get one of those products to polish glass and give it a try.

At the time when I did that, I had no way to "grind the bit". Other than that, that's what I did! About the torque wrench, I already had one, I guess the problem was the guys at the tire shop with the pneumatic wrench...

I guess there was the option to get the radio commands on the steering wheel. Check part 2 on the following diagram: http://www.lingshondaparts.com/honda_car_parts_selection_pfk.php?block_01=17S1A11&block_02=B__3110&block_03=2249

When you replace the clutch master cylinder, you have to work around the clutch pedal adjustment. So you might just need to re-adjust your clutch pedal to the proper specifications, undoing the lock nut, and turn the master cylinder connection rod to reach the desire pedal height and biting...

Behind the center console, in the ground, under the carpet.

If there is no signs of leaks in the slave cylinder, I wouldn't replace it.

I have already replaced the clutch master cylinder and symptoms were: - The clutch pedal would not hold pressure. - When I held the pedal down for more than a few seconds, it would lost all the pressure, to a point that the pedal wouldn't even retract. I had to pull it up. - Just before...

Humm... haven't thought about that, but that makes sense... Will try it again in the weekend.

The knock sensor also has one wire. I had already checked the ignition timing with a ignition timing light while shorting the SCC, and the timing is correct. About the injectors, can't find anywhere around to do an ultra-sonic clean. Also, I can't be with the car stopped for a couple of days...

I have just cleaned the EGR as well as the EGR distributer plate. It was not very bad, all holes were free and nothing was clogged. Since I had to remove the fuel injectors, I give them a light clean with an injector cleaner product. To clean them properly, I would have to force the cleaner...

I wonder if this would work in the accord :unsure: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251368244218&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123

It's not easy to find Hondas in junkyards in Portugal, at least in the area where I live :(

After getting to the reserve light, the knocking/pinging, the Bardahl seems to have done some effects. I put on it more 10€ of 95 RON. The noise is not as loud as it was before and not so frequent. It occasionally happens between 2500-3000rpm on 2nd gear, not always, and depends on the load...