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http://www.carscoops.com/2017/06/take-look-back-of-25-years-of-honda.html

Still good and after reprogramming both keys the boot is working fine again. Fingers crossed.

Been out for a good drive, used the voltage meter in the accessory socket for constant readings. Previous alternator reading would be around 13.6 - 13.7v dropping to the 12's or lower which would cause the warning. New alternator is reading 14.0-14.1, it momentarily drops to 13.8v in those...

It came thins morning and I dropped it in a lunch time. The Denso is clearly a better made unit than the one it's replaced and it says 'Made in Japan' so that always gives you some confidence! Has it solved it? don't know, too early to say but I feel better having the genuine article...

My flux capacitor is a remanufactured job, not sure the ELD agrees with it :wacko:

Presume you've already done the bushes?

That's EXACTLY what I thought.

Another interesting read: http://opensiuc.lib.siu.edu/cgi/viewcontent.cgi?article=1011&context=auto_pres

Honda discs are expensive. I've just done the rears on mine and went for Pagid.

In reply to my point about Honda's not liking aftermarket parts! Well, in some instances I have used aftermarket but not many. My thoughts: Brake pads, notorious for not fitting out of the box. Auto gearbox fluid, coolant and brake fluid has to be Honda IMO, it's usually cheaper than other...

There isn't a brand on it, it's just a remanufactured one I picked up locally. As for having it checked, I've done that, it tests fine, it's only certain circumstances the fault occurs. I can show you countless threads I've saved from other forums were reman alternators have failed out of the box.

Well I'm soon going to find out as I've ordered a Denso OEM unit :blink:. Given how often I'm reading reman units are very hit and miss and given that Honda's can have problems with non-OEM parts it's the only way I can rule out the alternator. I wasn't actually aware they had a clutch, is it...

I've tried that but it happens so quick! I have the workshop manual and I've been tracing the wiring looking for culprits however I'm coming to the conclusion that the ELD isn't 100% with remanufactured alternators. I'm saying this because the US and Oz forums have far more experience with this...

The EDL unit amongst others on the power side are grounded at that point.

I'd like to get to G302 as that seems an important ground but think it's tucked behind the bumper :unsure:

problem with the coasting is that I can't replicate it! I've never been able to turn around and do the exact same thing again and replicate the problem, it's that random. I don't know how to conclusively prove it is the alternator without buying a new Denso unit (which I should have done in...

I have noted that the OEM is rated at 105A and the reman I got 100A, really don't know if that could be an issue. I suppose it's down to how often it needs full amperage, though that would explain why the original reman I got did nearly nine months, unless I was just lucky?

Still no closer :( . Running out of ideas other than taking the wiring loom out and checking it bit by bit. I have found some threads from an Oz forum that has the exact same issue but they always seem to end without conclusion though one owner printed off a voltage check over a driving...

Glad it seems to be sorted but the name of the garage would make me run a mile!

Yes, very common on the earlier Accords.