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Don't remember having auto lights on my pre-facelift. Only time I leave them on auto is depths of winter when it's usually dark when I use the car, rest of the time don't see the point unless you want to to momentarily confused when you go through a tunnel or under a motorway bridge.

And me, any guides on this?

Decided to have a look at the PVC valve yesterday. It's done 122k and as you can imagine it was a bit dirty in there so gave it a good clean with throttle body cleaner. Whilst I was in there I popped of the air intake to have a peek inside the throttle body and found a nice crusty build up...

The problem returned. Changed the auto-tensioner, no joy. Cleaned the PCV valve and noticed the throttle body had a build-up around the butterfly valve so that got cleaned. Cleaned as many electrical connectors as I could easily get to. I've not had the fault yet, but it's too early to say...

Are you talking about the current Yeti or its replacement the Karoq?

Yeah, like to share the love. Still working fine today, now all I need are some friends so I can put some numbers in the phonebook that aren't take-aways related.

Sorry, not sure I follow. Do you mean measure from the alternator with one of the battery terminals removed?

So far so good, not had a blip from some spirited driving. Got them from here: http://lancashirerotatingelectricsltd.co.uk/. Bought plenty from them in the past for various cars and vans at work and never had a problem. Can't argue with their service.

After a 10 min run it was incredibly hot, I'm sure it shouldn't be that hot.

Changed the alternator this morning, went much quicker this time! Not had the message yet but only done a small trip. The pulley on the old one feels quite stiff and squeals when rotated. Don't know if this was the problem.

Done mine. Did the power board and that made no difference, did the communication board and would you believe it, it worked. Will check battery level over the next few day.

I've tried it with everything on and the lowest I can get it is 13.9v but it's only when it's been running that the problem occurs. I suspect when the brakes are applied for a certain speed or above the load is removed from the alternator and it temporarily throws the fault. Anyway, spoke to...

Across the battery terminals but today I used a meter that plugs in the *** lighter. When I got the message on the dash I had a look at the meter in the socket and sure enough it had dropped.

Seems like it starts to happen when the engine has warmed up. Got to say the alternator was really hot after a short run, not sure how how alternators run?

Definitely getting a drop when braking from 40 upwards, drops to about 12.7v then recovers when accelerating, also think there's a rumble that rises and falls with revs. Clearly first thought is alternator but I put a reman on just under a year ago and it's not done many miles.

Tell me about it! My old battery was knackered and causing a few other problems which have been sorted with a new battery.

Yes I've done that, but the fault is when driving not stationary specifically when braking or I think occasionally when going over a bump. Couldn't replicate it this morning.

Well tried to get something to work with this morning and nothing, diddly squat, not a message to be seen. I'm going to change the bulbs just for peace of mind, as much as that's unlikely to be the problem.

2.4 Auto! I can try neutral though.

I've posted this on the other forum but hoping for some more input/thoughts: When braking I get a very fleeting message on the dash, at first i couldn't catch the message. However, its started staying on longer, the message is 'Check System' with a battery icon next to it, the red charging...