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£185 is an amazing price especially as they recovered the vehicle too.

Have you tried clearing the error?

See what this goes for, got a few problems but over scrap value already: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284809846284?hash=item424ffd5e0c:g:v3kAAOSwxAxiQRzP

Pretty scary that. Made me take a look at my split pins today and they are fine but rusting. I might swap them over with stainless steel ones. You'd think they'd be stainless in the first place.

How on earth did that happen, someone been fiddling with nuts?

Pull the bonnet release lever or unplug the connector to the bonnet catch.

Disconnect the battery

no worries, hope it lasts a while

Sorry for the frosty welcome. No, cost is prohibitive, think about getting an egr delete and remap. Not until it happens though, may be a long way off if it's motorway miles.

EGR pipe will probably blow out in the next 15k miles, but you never know.

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/thermotec/11585982

You could remove the wheel bearing ***embly, this will allow you to clean out any debris and rust that may be inside the chamber where the sensor sits. Not sure but I think part of the bearing ***embly triggers the abs.

It can't be your brake pipes because you said you were told that the brakes were binding with those pipes disconnected.

That 1/4mm could just be the stretch from torquing on the old one, shouldn't need any washer adding but if it's worked then sound. "can anyone provide the new/before, after/limit dimensions on them if any exist ?" What dimensions were you referring to?

Are you sure it's the hub binding, not the brakes? Maybe try tightening as much as you can so the hub rotates, then take it for a drive, then see if it will tighten some more and still spin freely.

I don't think you will damage the hub. Try some oil as it suggests. You are using new nuts? I did a Fiat Punto rear bearing and the torque was @280 nm which I thought was crazy, had to buy a bigger torque wrench to do it. But it was fine.

Did you apply the oil to the nut

https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/forum/attachments/general-tech-help-7/4471d1296752900-2006-accord-ex-rear-wheel-bearings-replacement-disc-brake.jpg

I have no experience on your vehicle but I recently had to remove an injector from my sprinter 311 cdi, as it was leaking past the copper seal. I used oven cleaner to clean the injector housing and retaining bolt hole, and bought some brush drill bits to use inside them. Also taped a small tube...

Can you not just solder an extra piece in? Starter motor? Does that mean you ordered the wrong part?