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You don't need to replace the master cylinder if it's not faulty. Basic checks in addition to advice already given, would be check the reservoir is not low, check slave for leaks (sometimes need to pry the boot back), bleed the clutch. Was it main dealer purchase?

Interesting stuff, still stuck at work but something to read later. I Personally wouldn't use a 0/20 in performance aplications. Just like you would go a grade up on track use, I think it'll be too thin at higher temps.

Yes your right just a old habit using the term weight to describe viscosity not the W reading. I was referring to Cliff who said the 0/20 was much smoother in the mornings, so that's why recommended 0/30 as a alternative.

It's worth noting the affects viscosity has on oil pressures too. Thinner the oil faster the flow but lower pressure. Personally would go for 0/30 over 0/20 for cold start. We don't have extreme weather most of uk. But it's not hard getting a engine to 100deg plus, once your there the hot...

Hello Brett, that's right but I think what the OP is trying to explain is the clutch slipping then grabs, so thinking the revs are bogging down but it's actually slip what he's experiencing.

With the belt off its still sounds pretty loud. Check your valve timing lately? Definitely something driven by the belt also making a noise. Would look closer at water, AC and alternator as possible culprits. If the garage think it's a water pump, might be worth starting there and cheapest. If...

^ thats my thoughts too. Maybe a dodgy solenoid. I would also want to check the alternator for charging and continuity between starter and ground and check signal too.

Glad it's finally sorted for you. Slipping clutch can ruin a flywheel, where it changes the metallurgy of the disc through hotspots so skimming won't always help. Sometimes a couple clutch dumps in third followed by a steady drive can stop a slipping clutch....try at your own risk.

Have you checked the crank pulley? If you used a new belt when you did the idler, make sure it's the right size or re- use the old one to rule it out. Hard to say because you said the noise doesn't change much with no belt? Hit each pulley with a small directed squirt of wd40 while running...

Take it to a garage you trust and ask them to test drive it. Or find a long, quiet road and floor it in 3rd gear through the rev range, if the revs rise rapidly at any point without the car picking up speed its your clutch.

.edit: me being silly ha

Yes I guess you can put in a set of comps and run the separate signals for the mids and highs from the amp.

Hi, the standard hu has a Amp behind the ashtray which receives a 4ch signal from the HU and sends in to 6/8 channels depending what hu you have. The crossover is built in to the Amp, it also adjusts the equalisation as the volume is increased. That's why people who change the door speakers find...

if its plastic, then you can plastiweld it. At a stretch you can use a cheap soldering iron with the right filler rods to make the repair.

haha nice. Its a good thing the abs as well as airbag go through a start up phase, would be ****ed if I purchased a car like that. MOT should be checking for the light to extinguish.

setting TOE with string is actually fine if your rear axle is straight. That's what most laser machine use as a reference point. Do it at home , do it FREE. Check youtube

As above the front sensor is probably seized in a requires the hub to be removed so you can punch it out from inside after drilling the sensor.

you can send them to mrinjector for test and clean. Give them a call, reasonable prices too.

If its one of those universal types that you flip over to get the two different sizes it should fit. Why don't you buy a kit from amazon that will fit every car for £15. They come with right and left handed tools make the job x10easier.

Any updates on this?