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yes, that is correct. the euro r/tsx variant has the correct center cutout as well as the correct 47.2mm total height correct, but you are not limited to legend calipers or pads, nor are you limited to the type r discs. I could stay with my stock 25mm thick discs but I chose to upgrade to 28mm...

hope it all works out in the end! it should bolt straight up. I have ordered type r 300x28mm discs myself and they are dimensionally identical to the stock cn2 300x25mm except for the 3mm difference in braking surface thickness and the center hub cutout is 70mm whereas stock is 64.2mm. total...

that's a great find! I would not worry about the necessity of milling 3mm off the mounting surface, the builder is using 25mm thick discs, the acura RL and accord type R use 28mm thick discs, he is simply centering the disc in the carrier by compensating for the thickness difference elsewhere...

Honda HDS/HIM (Honda Diagnostic System - Honda Interface Module) is what you're looking for

so I've just shoved new pistons into my type r calipers after painting, and for anyone looking to do this, through trial and error there is a trick to fitting the dust boot. I read @F6HAD's post about his experience of wifely aid simplifying the process, but I soldiered on stubbornly on my own...

bildelsbasen.se has acura rl quad piston calipers off a honda legend if you want to go all the way and get a conversion bracket :) https://www.bildelsbasen.se/se-sv/Honda/HONDA-LEGEND/2007_2021/Bromsar/Bromsok/H%C3%B6ger-fram/ID-43476773/...

correct, but it would depend on the trim level, as some trims are equipped with larger brakes than base. the pads don't care about the number of pistons in your brake caliper, it is the carrier that decides compatibility. do note that some of the compatible models below may use a 260mm disc no...

calipers are quite easy to source, refurbished or brand new, but carriers are not sold separately, but rather come bundled with calipers when ordered direct from honda. it is not cheap, I was quoted £360 per side for type r calipers and carriers here in norway your other option is to play the...

you most definitely do need the carriers for the 20mm increase in disc diameter, the stock carrier for 300mm discs will not clear it.

it'll fit, it also has the 4 bottom tabs for push pins despite not being pictured. I bought the type s pattern from the same seller a year ago it is abs though, feels cheap but looks ok

I had the same problem with mine, heat, self locking grips and an impact gun pulsing on max was enough to knock it loose from the sleeve. how much heat have you used? autogen/oxyacetylene causes more rapid heat expansion than propane so that helped me immensely

650mm/400mm 25in/16in

if I may ask, how did you actually press it in? I think I swore once with every raise of my hammer, so if there's a secret way then it'd be cool to be in the know

lucky for you, it was not as stubborn as mine :) various sockets to press the ball joint out with, and one large enough to receive it on the other end. I had to cut into the socket I used on the bearing side to make it fit over a raise in the casting kinda like this, which included in the...

did you unstake the nut? not that it should matter a whole lot have you tried leaving the wheel on and not jacking the car up? if you pop the wheel center cap off and hammer on the breaker bar joint while pushing it would kinda sorta simulate an impact gun

the lower arms themselves, yes. but you cannot push the ball joint up and out with the axle still in place because of the axle itself and the lock ring on the back of the hub how are you planning to get the ball joint out? more importantly, how are you getting the new one in? because when I did...

it's a 36mm on my tourer but I've seen kits for petrols offered with a 32mm for some reason

if it still turns, it's worth checking if the knuckles have popped out, though you might need new sockets you may also find that the wiper arms are rusted to the studs. an universal puller would help if you can't rubber mallet it off. either way, you'll see that it's not much more involved than...

but in a practical sense, does it matter? the ac condenser already covers the radiator, and factory fmics on turbocharged vehicles are often stacked in front of that, making the radiator the last in line

run the starter without starting the engine a couple times, the dash might flash with "SYSTEM CHECK" but just ignore it I didn't bother with anything else and everything's been a-okay