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Usually when removing something like that it is best to change the gasket, i always like to change them if they're not too expensive.

I didnt have to take the battery out to do mine but i can see how it would help, up to you really mate.

When I had mine changed the sub frame needed to be dropped, I did the rear easily but couldn't do the front by my self.

I changed both the brake and clutch fluid with just 1 litre of fluid but brought 2 litres just incase.

Yes i did check the levels, i didnt bleed it like i should have done after fitting it but i had meet a mate in town in the afternoon so just used that drive to bleed it all through and checked it after the drive in. didnt hear any noise but did notice i didnt have any heating for about 15mins...

I never even gave that a thought. My mate who is quite short often has to climb on top of the engine whilst working on his car.

Thanks, I brought it from carparts4less.co.uk it was £180, cheapest i could find at the time.

Its best to use genuine Honda stuff its MTF3

After having my radiator broken by a Honda garage http://typeaccord.co.uk/forum/topic/9724-radiator/ and getting no where with getting them to sort it out I decided to change it myself so made a short guide on changing the radiator just in case anyone might need it, it was actually a real easy...

I can hear a rush of air when i open my filler cap but after reading the owners manual this appears to be normal, not sure if thats what you mean?

Your right they do, and the spring clip matches this shape.

I had this trouble for a while and when I turned the bulbs round the other way they were much better almost if they had been in upside down so it may be worth a shot.

Ive taken mine off to check it when I was bleeding the clutch, dead easy to do and if your not after genuine parts then these seem to be cheapest I can find http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/hydraulic-clutches

Mine warms fairly quick and also sits just below half way on the gauge so I ***ume its normal.

It sounds like the water from the wash wipe maybe shorting the switch in the boot as you say the fault has not shown itself since the boot dried out. Id just keep it dry and if the fault doesnt appear again i'd call it problem solved mate.

neither, just undo the two bolts on the bracket, slide the bush off (theres a split in the bushes to do this) , put the new one on and refit the bracket. I also like to clean all the parts as i go along.

I did them myself cost me £3 the pair and changed them in about 30mins, dont even have to jack the car up. I think someone on here has done a guide on how to change them.

If your not loosing any oil then chances are the oil on the side of the engine is just some that may have been spilt when they did the service.

I wouldnt be too happy touching the condenser just because of the gas, the drop links are easy enough and ive just done the bushes in the arms on mine, they do need pressing in and out which i didnt have the tools for so i found it cheaper to just change the whole arm myself instead of getting...

Well got the car back yesturday and it now feels amazing, all my power is back and the clutch feels nice and strong again. with a couple of little jobs they did as well the total bill was £633 so pretty happy with that.