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I would much rather have found a simple, replaceable set of relays. I hope u/chesjak at least finds some simple through-hole board mounted relays. That, we can fix. The more I think about it though, the more likely it is that at least for concurrent generations, these relay control modules...

Can you check fault codes? If it's not a broken sensor, the main thing to check is fuel delivery. I'm looking for an intact right side Tourer tail light btw.

Don't know if this has been posted before. I found this white trying to find information about the Relay Control Module, in another thread. US 2004 TSX workshop manual. PDF. It's nothing like the Gen7 WSM we generally refer to. It seems to have more electrical test procedures, but I have...

From the few examples that can be found online, it looks like the box unplugs with a single multi-connector. I ***ume it is some sort of clamshell body that can be probably be pried apart. From what I gather, the relay control Module controls a lot of stuff.. I can describe what to look for...

It's actually not that simple. The headlight relays are buried inside the Relay Control Module, which is that unmarked sealed box to the right of the engine bay fuse box. Honda treats this as an non-serviceable part, and it looks like it is built into the fuse box itself, but apparently can...

IDK what a "normal" drain is for this generation Hondas. My 5th gen Accord drained the battery below cranking voltage when I let it sit over a 2 month holiday. My 7th gen is a diesel, so has a bigger battery. It sits undisturbed for max 1.5 weeks and has so far started OK. This is where my...

Asking the obvious, but there was nothing that came out with the oil when you emptied the sump? I have seen flattened flakes like this, and they came from a (crankshaft) bearing that had momentarily run dry. This is not great, but not always fatal. The flakes are generated by the steel...

I have opened up relays and cleaned contact points. They aren't especially complicated.

These type DMMs have worked fine for me in the past for 12V and mains stuff.

It sounds like your battery is the only suspect for now. Keep the jumpstart battery charged and with you, and see how you go. If your battery is draining faster than you'd expect from just an active immobiliser/ alarm, look up some threads about "battery drain" on this forum, and work out if...

Measure the voltage before you start the engine, and with the engine running. You will get a good enough reading to see if the voltage of the alternator is too low, with the jumpstart battery attached. (as long as the jumpstart "battery" is not a running car with a functioning alternator).

The car battery with jumpstarter battery in parallel is a working battery. Voltage output of the alternator can still be measured.

Do the basics first. You should check a few engine vital signs, like the colour of each of the spark plugs and the compression on each cylinder. If one of the cylinders deviates from the others, you might have a malfunctioning hydraulic valve tappet on that cylinder.

To test the alernator you need to measure the voltage in the system with the engine running. It should be putting out between 13.8 and 14.2 volts.

This could be fueling / injectors. Do you have any fault codes?

Thanks Mike, that makes sense. I didn't know about the conditions in which the bypass operates, and that is good information. Scanning the forum pages I was getting the idea that they didn't have a perfect integration, but I didn't know whether that was because I wasn't reading it correctly...

Keep us posted. I (obviously) hadn't heard of this, and I am totally getting one if yours works. The outdated Nav screen is my least favourite bit of the car. And the AU disk doesn't work on EU systems (my car is from the UK), so the map shows me driving around on the sea floor somewhere...

As far as I have heard, everyone who has tried this on a diesel has encountered problems with cabin heating following installation. The Diesel heating system is different from petrol powered models because diesels are slow to warm up from a cold start. The heating system is boosted by a bypass...

You can do a remote flash procedure. You need a reliable laptop guaranteed not to lose power during the procedure, and an OBD2 connector and software to read the current map and stored values, and write an adjusted map to the ECU. You can do a mild tune and EGR delete at the same time.

That applied in a previous era, when engines still had a "wear in" period, and mostly lasted about half the distance they do now. A half life rebuild was almost standard back then, but nowadays the components replaced in these rebuilds commonly outlast the car. You might not think of your 20...