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Ive just fitted the induction kit posted in the link on the first page, all went swimmingly, however what are the 2 metal brackets for and where on earth do they go?, I looked for ages but just couldn't figure it out lol Here they are pictured

Treat myself to an induction kit and currently waiting on its arrival, I ordered a CAI kit at the same time (as an open filter in a hot engine bay is never a good idea) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/260978980280?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649 So anyway it arrived this morning...

Went for castrol magnatec 10w 40 with a gen Honda oil filter :)

So 4.4 litres, great cheers :)

I had a clanky rattle noise when it started to go on my Primera

Just a quick question before I buy a service kit for my 6th gen How much oil will I need on a 2 litre Vtec? Cheers :)

My temp sits at the same place as on the pic, gets there in between 5-10 minutes And as mentioned the 6th gen's fuel economy is poor at best, especially the 2 litre My idle sits slightly lower than in the pic at the mark below 1k

It should pop out when you press the button unless it is either jammed or has no power to it, as far as I know if they're is defo power to it and it wont eject the cassette you can manually remove the cassette. I did on a Alpine one however I had to partially take it apart

I certainly have :) Thanks mate B)

Bit like me at the moment, my backbox has a slight blow, so its the perect excuse for a full stainless steel catback system :lol:

I wanted to know the very same thing as my local garage tried to say I needed a whole hub when I enquired about a mates car, it wasint until I dug around and asked on here :)

As far as I know, yes you can change just the bearing on the front, its the rear that comes as a whole hub I would leave it to a garage as I would imagine the bearing would need to be pressed out, same with the spring, unless you are competent and have spring compressors :) Hope this helps

I do agree yes, for standard kit it is pretty good, and if you get the bass/treble just right you can get a nice sound from it, my only gripe is the sub seems to wimper out at higher volumes When you compare it to the equivalent kits in Vectra's and Mondos, its miles better, even non amped...

Great guide, Its always in the back of my mind if I need to do this in the future, great that's they'res a guide now :)

Champion, Would be great if you got a How to up, Its one of those questions that always pops up on the forum every now and then Compared to the stock setup, what is the sound quality like with the sub and amp running with an aftermarket headunit?

I did undo the bolt underneath the leveller switch yes, It's under the stereo where the plastic gets thin where I broke mine, gave it a little tug and then snap :o

I'm pleased you have managed to get yours working Dominic, I don't suppose you took any pics of how to do it, I had a look at the wiring to my sub and chickened out :blush: Ive now sold my headunit and bought Xcarlink now, although this will be useful to others

Thanks Andy, thought it was worth doing if it will help others, as ive seen the questions pop up a few times I will be doing a guide on fitting Xcarlink aswell, with a video demo :)

For referance if you have the Bose system or a cd changer This is the 14 pin cd changer lead (what Xcarlink uses) This is the sub and amp connection Right, I found it easier (and more secure) to mount the aftermarket stereo to the factory fitted cage (just like the standard headunit) and did...

This is what you will be met with, the factory fitted stereo is held in with 4 screws, and is attached to the heater panel in 1 cage Remove the screws Once the screws are removed gently prise the whole unit forward, it might be sticky but it will come away with a crack noise :lol: Now remove...